SOA Musings...
- Thread starter Tigerstripe40
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
The rear FJ62 springs are on the truck.
With the weight off the springs, the shackle angle is perfect.
With the weight on the springs, the shackle angle is pretty steep.
Here are a couple pics.
With the weight off the springs, the shackle angle is perfect.
With the weight on the springs, the shackle angle is pretty steep.
Here are a couple pics.
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2012
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Looking forward to the tech on this. I have 62 axles and they are torn down and I need to finish cleaning them and rebuild them and do the SOA. Following your build
- Thread starter
- #64
I took today off and I am working on this.
I removed the old shackle hangers, but managed to mangle the triangular frame plates that those hangers live on.
so I have a piece of L-channel that I welded onto the frame and rear cross member which should help strengthen things and provide a nice place to weld the new hangers on.
I put the new hangers on and put the weight of the truck onto one of them. From the side it looks pretty good but from behind... not so much... I didn't have the bolts tightened down all the way, but it looks pretty ski-wompus.
Anyhow, here are some pics. The shackle hanger was only tacked in place.
I removed the old shackle hangers, but managed to mangle the triangular frame plates that those hangers live on.
so I have a piece of L-channel that I welded onto the frame and rear cross member which should help strengthen things and provide a nice place to weld the new hangers on.
I put the new hangers on and put the weight of the truck onto one of them. From the side it looks pretty good but from behind... not so much... I didn't have the bolts tightened down all the way, but it looks pretty ski-wompus.
Anyhow, here are some pics. The shackle hanger was only tacked in place.
Move it back about 1 inch and it will be better.
- Thread starter
- #66
I got the right parts and had some time to work on this today.
I have a set of spares in a box in the back of the truck, and about 120lbs of sand to simulate the weight of the spare tire and rear bumper. I might thrown in an extra to simulate the weight of tools, and a cooler full of ice and food. I can throw another 180# in if necessary, though I prefer to wheel light if possible.
First pic is the truck weight on the spring and the shackle angle.
Second is a close up of the angle finder, I think that's about 65.5-66 degrees.
Third is a pic of the truck with the weight off the spring.
I have a set of spares in a box in the back of the truck, and about 120lbs of sand to simulate the weight of the spare tire and rear bumper. I might thrown in an extra to simulate the weight of tools, and a cooler full of ice and food. I can throw another 180# in if necessary, though I prefer to wheel light if possible.
First pic is the truck weight on the spring and the shackle angle.
Second is a close up of the angle finder, I think that's about 65.5-66 degrees.
Third is a pic of the truck with the weight off the spring.
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2004
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So, how long are your shackles and how far did you move your shackle hanger from the stock location?
I just use the stock FJ60/62 spring/shackle hanger center to center dimensions. Makes life easier. You just need to remember the dimensions on a frame chart are measured level horizontally from a plumb line through center of the frame mount locations. Just my 2 cents worth.
- Thread starter
- #69
Shackles are 6" overall length, 4" eye to eye.
I think in that pic the hanger has been moved back about 3.4" or so. I need to probably move the hanger forward about .25 - .5" to get the shackle angle where I want it. With about 300lbs of sand in the back to simulate a fullly laden rig with spares, tools, spare tahre, etc, the angle is still about 60 degrees.
Sounds about right. I'd err on the side of less with a bit greater angle than moving it more and getting the angle near 45 degrees. I'd move mine back about .25" if I was inclined to grind them off again. It does work good as it is now that I no longer run the hard top.
- Thread starter
- #71
OK. I have the axle mounted and the weight on the truck
The truck has about 300lbs of sand in the back, along with my HEAVY box of spare axle shafts, so I figure I have the weight of a fully laden 'Cruiser there. The rear has moved back about 6" or so, and I think my ride height is about 3" higher. I haven't measured though.
I did some reinforcing of the housing. I welded the drain plug shut, and then filled it in. Then I put in some 1/4" plate on the bottom of the pumpkin. Matches the height of the drain plug surround so I don't feel I lost any ground clearance there.
I also used a RuffStuff diff cover, which replaced the studs with some bolts, so if I have to drain the gear lube out, I just pull the 3 bottom bolts. I call the cover the 'dreadnaught'. I know, its ugly, but its beef and functional.
Shackle angle is 55 degrees.
I am at issue with the rear disc brakes and how they are mounted.
Where everything is, the pins that attach the brakes are interfered with by the spring pack (bottom) or the u-bolt (top). So I am going to try turning the brackets around and see if that helps it. Otherwise, I may just weld them on.
The truck has about 300lbs of sand in the back, along with my HEAVY box of spare axle shafts, so I figure I have the weight of a fully laden 'Cruiser there. The rear has moved back about 6" or so, and I think my ride height is about 3" higher. I haven't measured though.
I did some reinforcing of the housing. I welded the drain plug shut, and then filled it in. Then I put in some 1/4" plate on the bottom of the pumpkin. Matches the height of the drain plug surround so I don't feel I lost any ground clearance there.
I also used a RuffStuff diff cover, which replaced the studs with some bolts, so if I have to drain the gear lube out, I just pull the 3 bottom bolts. I call the cover the 'dreadnaught'. I know, its ugly, but its beef and functional.
Shackle angle is 55 degrees.
I am at issue with the rear disc brakes and how they are mounted.
Where everything is, the pins that attach the brakes are interfered with by the spring pack (bottom) or the u-bolt (top). So I am going to try turning the brackets around and see if that helps it. Otherwise, I may just weld them on.
- Thread starter
- #72
So, after staring at the back of the truck yesterday while making an Amber ale, I got the shackle hanger on the rear passengers side off kilter, somehow....
I've got it burned in, and did 3 total passes with the welder. Probably overkill, but I'd rather be overkill than have it break...
I guess I gotta grind it off and redo it....
I've got it burned in, and did 3 total passes with the welder. Probably overkill, but I'd rather be overkill than have it break...
I guess I gotta grind it off and redo it....
- Thread starter
- #73
Cut all that stuff off and redid it (it sat for a while).
Now I've got everything in the right place. But have one other thing to contend with.
For the fixed spring hanger, I used the stock FJ40 spring hanger in the stock location. Used OME bushings in the front eye of the stock FJ60 springs.
The military wrap contacts the top of the spring hanger and will scrape (it doesn't bind, though).
Can I grease the top of the spring and call it good?
Cut the spring hangers off and weld on the hangers I got in my RuffStuff Kit?
Just not worry about it?
Now I've got everything in the right place. But have one other thing to contend with.
For the fixed spring hanger, I used the stock FJ40 spring hanger in the stock location. Used OME bushings in the front eye of the stock FJ60 springs.
The military wrap contacts the top of the spring hanger and will scrape (it doesn't bind, though).
Can I grease the top of the spring and call it good?
Cut the spring hangers off and weld on the hangers I got in my RuffStuff Kit?
Just not worry about it?
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
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How much does it cost to get a custom inner axle shaft made for that short side axle?
If it contacts the top of the hanger at all with new bushings I would cut it off and replace it because the bushings will flex over time and sag. This will make the contact worse. It will tale a little longer, but you will like it more in the end. I am looking at doing a SOA on one shortly. Good info here. Thank You
- Thread starter
- #76
I've got a few pics here.
The rear brakes aren't ideal. For me to be able to change pads, I have to drop the outer u-bolt as the top pin of the RDB wants to come out there. But I got the brakes in a position where the bleeder is on top.
I may need to re-do the rear brake lines, as the SS conversion lines I have are a little too longer. I do have the Monte Carlo rubber hoses, and can use those in the end. I need to get a new 3/16" flare adapter for my double flare kit before I do that. Another project for another day.
- Thread starter
- #79
- Thread starter
- #80
So, for track bar, is 1.5" diameter, 3/8" wall DOM sufficient?
Or should I use something larger?
(myold Tie Rod is a BudBuilt tie rod, but if I can't find someone who wants to buy it, I will use that to make my track bar).
Or should I use something larger?
(myold Tie Rod is a BudBuilt tie rod, but if I can't find someone who wants to buy it, I will use that to make my track bar).