So you wanted an overhead switch panel?

[beachbumin]

Since my homelink does not work with my new garage door opener this may be a mod that will be coming sooner than later. Although seeing the swap to a newer homelink is also very enticing.

 

[Biga27110]

The pre-03 Land Cruisers (LX too?) came from an era void of the convenience of the HomeLink transmitter. Toyota’s solution: install a little pocket where a stand alone remote can mount. This is a valiant attempt at an elegant solution; the opener is tucked away rather than clipped onto the visor and small opening is left for the user to press the desired button. Fortunately for us, this opening is actually quite deep and stout, allowing for the addition of an overhead switch panel.


For those wanting a visual, this is the factory condition: (photo credit to paulbgardner, I was remiss in not taking a ‘before’ picture).
View attachment 1034268

The final product will look like this:

View attachment 1034297

Items needed:

Six Switch Mounting Panel
Your choice of Contura Switches
Misc Wiring, Connectors, And Junction Blocks (if desired).

The base Carling Contura rocker comes in many styles (SPST, SPDT, momentary, LED, bulb, etc). Take time to plan out your wiring needs ahead of time so that you select the correct switch. In my case I'm using each to drive a relay under the hood. With the exception of the aux horn all are SPST, the horn is momentary. The base has the option of both a dependent light (one that comes on with the switch) and independent light (one that comes on with the headlights, if wired as such). Those lights can come either as conventional bulbs or as LEDs and in an several color combinations. I chose green for the independent leg and amber for the dependent leg. The green is a fairly close match to the factory dash illumination and is somewhat muted. Those of you with LED dash upgrades may enjoy the blue LED option.

You additionally have a huge array of options of switch cover styles. I chose to go with switches and covers from OTRATTW however there are other good suppliers out there such as Dirty Parts. The great thing about the Carling switch is that the covers can be swapped at a later date if your conditions change.

For wire, I found a great deal on some Honeywell 18/8 stranded wire (#32170112) for about $0.50/ft on ebay. It's surprisingly hard to find a bundle of 8 (or more) stranded wires for a reasonable price.

As for the install process, it's pretty straighforard: (1) cut out the door for the panel, (2) cut out the back of the console for space and wiring, (3) pull wiring up the PS A-pillar, (b) hook it up.

The door entire panel assembly removes easily. Open the door opener pocket (it hinges at the rear) and you'll find a single screw attaching the assembly to the sunroof motor bracket. Remove that screw and the whole assembly can be popped out. There are four compression clips that hold it in place.

Once out make the cuts. First on the front:
View attachment 1034317

Next on the back. Note: this does remove the factory screw bracket. On my install the four compression clips were more than sufficient to hold it all in place without rattles or droop. Check your condition first if you have any concerns.

View attachment 1034319

The switch panel has some clips which just click in as you push it into the door. Then the switches just push into the panel. Plan for correct orientation before you push the switches in as it's a bit of a bugger to get them back out.

View attachment 1034320 In the above you can see that I connected the independent lights in common (black and yellow wires). Each switched leg (and therefore dependent bulb) has it's own discrete pair. I could have saved wiring by sharing a common 'hot' to the switched legs, but I like the flexibility of running any switch off of any battery should I want. Overkill, yes. But I had plenty of 18/8 and two bundles can easily poke through the nipple in the firewall where the 2nd battery sits.

Note that you will have about 1/4" of space to spare between the switch wiring and vehicle structure using the push-on connectors that I used. There are also 'flag' type of connectors that have a lower profile but are not needed. Plenty of space once you cut out the back of the overhead console.

Also note my application of felt tape across the factory lights. I had an occasional mid frequency buzz coming from that area and suspect it was the light wiring vibrating against the housing. Tape is cheap and it's an easy preventative. IH8Rattles.

How did you wire the relay portion and where did u run those cables?

 

[REZARF]

I'll pop in a pic of my setup. My sig line has the link to my build and full write up...

 

[Raj Singh]

Homelink and Lexus link. Could be done with the sunglass holder too I'm sure. This is with two placeholder switches to the right.

View attachment 1392792

How’d you get this panel? Is it custom?

 

[Mike6158]

How’d you get this panel? Is it custom?

Looks like he did what we all do and cut out the holder to fit switches

 

[Empty room]

I'll pop in a pic of my setup. My sig line has the link to my build and full write up...

View attachment 1649935 View attachment 1649936 View attachment 1649937

This is so clean

 

[Ramathorn15]

How’d you get this panel? Is it custom?

It's the Lexus link panel which replaced the sunglasses holder in 2006 I believe.

 

[neilsen100]

adding this here for future searchers

Builds - Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build

Greetings. This is a half build and half promoting thread. I want to document my 3d printed parts/accessories and share the design/fabrication process. List that shows what is currently available to purchase: Make 1: Scangauge II Mount for Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series Make 2: M2 V1: Rocker...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[stratus]

great write-up, impressive execution and attention to detail - thank you sharing, now I know what level of quality I should strive for!

I have one question and I guess I better ask here rather then open a new topic, as it seems a lot of expertise on that overhead panel is already gathered:
what over models of Toyota or Lexus have the same shape of that overhead panel? I need to buy a panel with Homelink buttons for 2002 TLC (I will be replacing the internals with my own remote and a 12-3VDC converter) and what to keep it looking as OEM as possible. There are many offerings on eBay for ES and LS Lexuses, even a GX one, but I don't know which one will fit the TLC100..

 

[brizzle]

Thanks @OregonLC and everyone for the great info! I finally pulled the trigger and installed some overhead switches myself.

Not sure if anyone has done this with homelink yet. You can make it fit but it takes some work and makes the install a little more complicated. I used flag connectors on all the switch connections and for the ground connections I removed the cover to allow the connectors to fit more easily. Since the flag connectors I purchased had rigid covers it made getting them all squeezed in together a challenge. If you find flag connectors with soft rubber covers those are much easier to work with. I used some with the soft rubber since they came on the voswitch wiring harness. Hope the video and pics are helpful.

 

[OverlandTrax]

Great write up!

 

[jackhossross]

I just placed an order for Stedi lights and 8 switches. Planning to move my ARB Compressor/F/R switches from the center console location up to here and leave the center console for something else.

I grabbed one of Ben's 3D printed pieces to throw up there - came across Brady's tutorial on YouTube - will be one of my first mods on the 100 series since I bought it secondhand.

I'll try to report once I get everything installed, however I think the Stedi lights and switches are coming from Australia so it might be a bit!

 

[OregonLC]

Glad to see this post still has legs. I miss that truck.