So Kevin, about those windows... (3 Viewers)

[TLCAddict]

how about UV glass bonding?

[FONT=&quot]Hey Kevin,

Thanks again for the sweet tailgate![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I thought I’d chime in on these ‘pure awesomeness’ windows… instead of trying to find ways to drill holes through tempered glass in order to accept the hardware, why not using ultra-strong 3M epoxies/adhesives, glass bonding agents or an Ultraviolet (UV) bonding process?

Have you ever seen those stairs designed with glass risers or railings with metal hardware or architectural buildings that use glass for their facades? They use hardware that is not drilled through or slipped through, but bonded to the glass using a UV bonding process. I know that the UV bonding process is used for structural and surface bonding, and to my knowledge, only works on glass to metal (I'm not sure about other materials like plastic).[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The demand is already there -short of sexual favors- so, these babies can go into production as long as you meet your intended goals of: 1) trying to use the OE windows, 2) cutting down on the amount of hardware used, as well as minimizing any invasive cutting, drilling or welding for the install, 3) providing security, and 4) designing a set with a profitable price point, right?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I think many others, including myself, wouldn’t mind unlocking the latches on the windows from inside, then this would solve the security issue... It's piece of mind…[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here’s some helpful leads: Check out [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Bohle B-682 adhesive, UV bonding at Häfele. Dymax Corp.

Hope this helps!
Jonathan[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

 

[kevinmrowland]

Thanks for the support guys.

Jonathan, you're on the right track.
The option I'm pursuing right now is actually the 3m VHB tapes for bonding glass to metal, kind of a space age double stick tape.
I've used the UV glues, and they work great for metal to glass and glass to glass. But I'm thinking that if the tape works (they're glueing most skyscraper windows on with this stuff these days) it would be nice since the customer could install their current windows themselves (very carefully) onto the new frame and hardware and no glass would have to be shipped around.

Having the windows unlatch/lock from the inside only would be quite easy, I already have that work done, but the biggest advantage (other than an awesome place to sleep) is the quick and easy gear/fridge access without having to open any other access points. It would be a shame to loose the outside access.


On the other stuff, Glenn, I've looked into the gas fill door, as well as the marker lights and the air vents on the back of cruisers, the gas fill was a limit since it is only on one side, and making new marker and air vent covers just gets more complicated than it should be.
I like simple, simple also tends to be the hardest thing to pull off.

 

[TLCAddict]

less is more...

I've used the 3M VHB tape before as well. Great stuff! Very hard to remove the two surfaces/materials once they've bonded. I certainly know that keeping it simple is always harder than it sounds... esp. from a design and installation perspective.

I know that unlocking the window from the outside is a super-big plus advantage, but one wouldn't necessarily lose accessibility, just the ability to unlock/unlatch it from the outside. At least for me, I would sacrifice unlocking the windows from the outside, also knowing that no one else can unlock it either.

 

[Spook50]

Thanks for the support guys.

Jonathan, you're on the right track.
The option I'm pursuing right now is actually the 3m VHB tapes for bonding glass to metal, kind of a space age double stick tape.
I've used the UV glues, and they work great for metal to glass and glass to glass. But I'm thinking that if the tape works (they're glueing most skyscraper windows on with this stuff these days) it would be nice since the customer could install their current windows themselves (very carefully) onto the new frame and hardware and no glass would have to be shipped around.

Having the windows unlatch/lock from the inside only would be quite easy, I already have that work done, but the biggest advantage (other than an awesome place to sleep) is the quick and easy gear/fridge access without having to open any other access points. It would be a shame to loose the outside access.


On the other stuff, Glenn, I've looked into the gas fill door, as well as the marker lights and the air vents on the back of cruisers, the gas fill was a limit since it is only on one side, and making new marker and air vent covers just gets more complicated than it should be.
I like simple, simple also tends to be the hardest thing to pull off.

What if you had a handle on the inside, and a tumbler for one of those large barrel keys on the outside? That way it'd still be secure. Only issue would be placement of the latch itself so it wouldn't interfere with glass or the sheet metal.

 

[womacje]

Honeycomb aluminum panels could achieve your nontransparent rigid material needs. Cool stuff.

Great design and execution.

 

[iaintscared1969]

Any chance of using our existing glass?? and when does the list start?

 

[Spook50]

Any progress lately, Kevin?

I still REALLY want the windows you have on your rig right now...

I know functionally there are a couple things you aren't happy with on them, but I like the utilitarian look of 'em.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Progress is slow, lots of other things getting in the way.
Found lots of complicated solutions, but not the simple one I'm looking for.

I will have some variation of these available this summer for the super-impatient, but with plans for improvements.

 

[Spook50]

Progress is slow, lots of other things getting in the way.
Found lots of complicated solutions, but not the simple one I'm looking for.

I will have some variation of these available this summer for the super-impatient, but with plans for improvements.

Did you find a way to use the factory glass, or are you planning to go custom? You went custom when you made your own set didn't you?

 

[treerootCO]

subscribed I am definitely needing some of these

 

[kevinmrowland]

Did you find a way to use the factory glass, or are you planning to go custom? You went custom when you made your own set didn't you?

I THINK I've figured out a way to use the OE glass, still waiting on the hardware to see though.

subscribed I am definitely needing some of these

Yeah, 'cause we all "need" windows that open up as well, how did we ever get along without them!?!

 

[Spook50]

Yeah, 'cause we all "need" windows that open up as well, how did we ever get along without them!?!

I'm honestly amazed at how much I've used my Aussie windows but wished there was a way I could open them from the outside and have better sealing against road noise (there's a slight gap between the glass and the divider strips on mine).

No joke, I seriously wonder how I got along without cargo windows that I could open

Care to divulge your idea on the current hardware experiment?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Care to divulge your idea on the current hardware experiment?

I share all my stuff!
Right now I'm pursuing a cable actuated rotary latch, my plan is to remove the rear side marker lights and replace them with a plate and a recessed push button locking activator. Not sure if it will work yet, I seem to try a new approach every week.....

 

[Spook50]

I share all my stuff!
Right now I'm pursuing a cable actuated rotary latch, my plan is to remove the rear side marker lights and replace them with a plate and a recessed push button locking activator. Not sure if it will work yet, I seem to try a new approach every week.....

Sounds interesting. So the rear marker lights would be removed completely?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Yup, gonzo, replaced with a plate and a recessed button.
At least that's what's in my head today.......

 

[Spook50]

Yup, gonzo, replaced with a plate and a recessed button.
At least that's what's in my head today.......

I could see that working. It wouldn't be hard to relocate the factory marker lights, or maybe just use mount the plate/button immediately above or below the lights themselves (if one is down with drilling the sheet metal. I assume your idea is to eliminate the need to drill anything).

 

[kevinmrowland]

I'm going for a bolt-in no-drill installation.
Replacing the rear markers solved a lot of problems, I was thinking of possibly mounting a small LED marker in the replacement, but why bother.
They are just tree-magnets anyway, many vehicles don't even have them. I think that if they were missing they would not end up being missed.

 

[Spook50]

I'm going for a bolt-in no-drill installation.
Replacing the rear markers solved a lot of problems, I was thinking of possibly mounting a small LED marker in the replacement, but why bother.
They are just tree-magnets anyway, many vehicles don't even have them. I think that if they were missing they would not end up being missed.

Very true. Though with all the nighttime highway driving I do, I'd either relocate mine or find a different location for the release.

Have you figured out a frame that'll let you use the factory glass?

 

[Spook50]

Any new developments?

 

[kevinmrowland]

Yeah, I haven't been able to convince Southco to make me the hardware I need yet.
Not very happy about that.
They have it printed in the catalog, but they don't seem to want to make the parts.
If they didn't make such nice hardware...........