So I tried this cheap ass carb...

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Just getting back to the thread..... Running the Partol carb for a few weeks now, and all's good. I don't have a good Aisian as a reference point, but otherwise I can't identify and downside to the Partol. I definitely recommend if you in need a quick carb solution to keep things running.

Bob
 
I ran the cheap knock off carb for awhile too, the only complaint is some fine metal filings that seemed to work loose months down the road. I tore it down and hit is with carb cleaner and then when it dried i saw the fine metal filings. Put it back together and ran it again for a while.
 
Stumbled upon this thread out of luck. I've got an OEM carb on my '79 that looks to have been rebuilt at some point. The accelerator pump isn't functioning correctly and I was going back and forth on what to do (rebuild, disassemble and tinker, etc.). Just pulled the trigger on the $100 amazon carb ($10 coupon made it less than $100). Hopefully this will get me back up and running and I'll disassemble the OEM carb and rebuild on my own time.
 
Just installed the Amazon one on my 1976 and does not have a fuel return??? What is everyone doing about the return???

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I would just block off the return line. Can't offer much advice on the information you provided.
 
Just installed the Amazon one on my 1976 and does not have a fuel return??? What is everyone doing about the return???
Block off the return port on the side of the tank.
 
I deleted the hard line, for return, on the engine. The tank return goes all the way to the engine bay, by the firewall then it is capped. Something like the smooth, not threaded, section of an M8 screw, iirc, cut off with a cut-off disk on a grinder, or a hacksaw, to use as a end plug. A couple of hose-clamps, a section of soft fuel line to connect to the stock barb-end of the hard line, and terminate the short soft line with the modified screw and hose clamp.
 
Glad to see this thread is still alive after all these years! :)
 
The cheap ones are fine except for folks who drive often and don’t know how to figure out issues related to them. Currently these are the issues I’ve found after folks have issues with the cheap repops (some overlap with Fuji carb).

1. Pickup tube on nozzles are too small/casting is too large and the pickup tube falls out causing issues with fueling into venturi. (I’ve seen this about 3-4 times now and only on the cheap repops, not Fuji and never oem.)
2. Fuel cut solenoid o-ring torn or flattened. Seen on both cheap repop and Fuji - recommend inspection.
3. Float absorbs water (both Fuji and cheap repop) and causes overfilling of bowl.
4. Secondary vacuum casting doesn’t line up much at all on the cheap ones (inconsistent, haven’t found on Fuji yet).

Other than that, they are fine, just note they have flaws for a daily driver over time but they can be overcome, just depends how motivated you are. If you have spares you can make a fun hybrid of oem and aftermarket. These carbs have a lot of overlap and you can make something suit your desired engine/air cleaner/smog situation.

Fuji is the best outside of oem but recommend new solenoid oring and replace float with new oem Aisan.

Another note: A friend just installed a similar Amazon grab of a cheap 22R reproduction, worked great but now has issues starting - curious to open it up and see its issues at some point.
 
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Maybe they are all the same, but, the online store makes it sound like they are all different brands and manufactures? AcMango, KIPA, EVERESTWAY, ALAVENTE, A-Premium, Autodevil, LDCRE, ZDDK, cwcyer, etc.
Why doesn't one of these brands/manufactures make a carburetor to fit a two-barrel F-engine (F / F.5-type intake manifold, and matching air cleaner assembly)?
They are misleading people by claiming that it fits a '69 to '87, when it only works with a non-USA 2F, or a smogged-2F with a special spacer installed on top of the air-horn, or by taking the original carb apart and swapping-in the EGR inlet part, and, by installing a plug for the fuel tank return line. Depending on your model, you might need to source a cable-stop for the choke. And, who cares that it lines up with the studs on the F-type ('69 to '74) intake manifold, when it has no throttle lever for the accelerator cable, or at least a generic air filter sandwiched between a couple pieces of sheet metal (like a Weber)? It should be advertized as, "Fits a '75 to '87 non-smog Land Cruisers"
 

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