Ron,
Roof, floor and firewall, mostly for sound control.
Roof, floor and firewall, mostly for sound control.
Builds SLOW 71 (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #962
Well, I'd get 3 of each and have some left over for other things. Are you going to put a bedliner or paint over the ceramic, if so then use the white ceramic. Lighter colors have a hard time covering over the black, because of the rough texture.
Let me add, I'm no expert, just done it a little.
Let me add, I'm no expert, just done it a little.
- Thread starter
- #963
Since I didn't have any driveshafts, for the FJ 60 drivetrain, I had Tom Woods make up a set. Nice high quality shafts, something I won't have to worry about for a while. cv joints on each shaft, maybe not necessary, but nice to have.
Also got Pighead's spare tire carrier, today. ( Thanks Pighead! ) Not sure how it mounts yet. My wheels got sandblasted and getting powder coated this week.
Also got Pighead's spare tire carrier, today. ( Thanks Pighead! ) Not sure how it mounts yet. My wheels got sandblasted and getting powder coated this week.
Ron,
Point the rear output flange straight to the transfer case and the double cardan joint will be vibration free, otherwise it'll vibrate worse than a conventionally jointed driveshaft when the output flanges of both the diff and TC are off more than 2 degrees from parallel.
I'm betting you've already covered the bases and comments about were tongue in cheek, but if not, may check the output flanges of, at least the rear to make sure the rear flange is at 0 degree to drive shaft angle, or 2 degree variance that's stated acceptable.
Can't fathom why the front would need anything beyond single joints, but surely a reason.
The front shouldn't vibrate at speeds typical 4WD operation, but wouldn't think a standard would either.
A rear with a double cardan that isn't within the parameters above will vibrate like crazy, at least in my experience, being the lifted 80, which is the most sensitive on the planet, since AWD.
Point the rear output flange straight to the transfer case and the double cardan joint will be vibration free, otherwise it'll vibrate worse than a conventionally jointed driveshaft when the output flanges of both the diff and TC are off more than 2 degrees from parallel.
I'm betting you've already covered the bases and comments about were tongue in cheek, but if not, may check the output flanges of, at least the rear to make sure the rear flange is at 0 degree to drive shaft angle, or 2 degree variance that's stated acceptable.
Can't fathom why the front would need anything beyond single joints, but surely a reason.
The front shouldn't vibrate at speeds typical 4WD operation, but wouldn't think a standard would either.
A rear with a double cardan that isn't within the parameters above will vibrate like crazy, at least in my experience, being the lifted 80, which is the most sensitive on the planet, since AWD.
- Thread starter
- #965
Chris,
The front shaft is pretty short for having a 3" lift. a double cardan ( CV ) joint, my backwoods terminology showing, should help with the steep angle.
Hoping it pans out, we'll know this Summer. I'll check that rear angle. Thanks for the input, I need all the help I can get!
The front shaft is pretty short for having a 3" lift. a double cardan ( CV ) joint, my backwoods terminology showing, should help with the steep angle.
Hoping it pans out, we'll know this Summer. I'll check that rear angle. Thanks for the input, I need all the help I can get!
If anyone gets to claim backwoods terminology, it's me. Haha.
It took me a while to figure out that Cruisers run Birfields not CVs and joints stacked on top of each other are called CV joints, too.
Anyhow....
Can't say for sure, since the pic is small on iPhone, if they modified the joint to increase operating angle, but thinking the 1350s maxed before a standard joint, but from memory of battles on mine.
Betting all bases were covered and probably not an issue, but have seen very few double cardan rear shafts and most on the 18" lifted Icelandic rigs.
It took me a while to figure out that Cruisers run Birfields not CVs and joints stacked on top of each other are called CV joints, too.
Anyhow....
Can't say for sure, since the pic is small on iPhone, if they modified the joint to increase operating angle, but thinking the 1350s maxed before a standard joint, but from memory of battles on mine.
Betting all bases were covered and probably not an issue, but have seen very few double cardan rear shafts and most on the 18" lifted Icelandic rigs.
- Thread starter
- #967
Chris,
Before I said anything, wanted to check again. My rear output flange is pointed down a few degrees, towards the rear pumpkin. I knew they weren't parallel, so thought I could get by with the cv joint. You got me thinking about it and you were right. I'm 8 degrees different, too much to run conventional, so I ordered some 6 degree shims. The front is fine. Thanks for keeping me on the straight.
Got the wheels back today and ordered the tires. 255/85/16 KM2's. Then realized I need lug nuts, also! The UPS guy is inviting me to his Daughter's wedding.
Before I said anything, wanted to check again. My rear output flange is pointed down a few degrees, towards the rear pumpkin. I knew they weren't parallel, so thought I could get by with the cv joint. You got me thinking about it and you were right. I'm 8 degrees different, too much to run conventional, so I ordered some 6 degree shims. The front is fine. Thanks for keeping me on the straight.
Got the wheels back today and ordered the tires. 255/85/16 KM2's. Then realized I need lug nuts, also! The UPS guy is inviting me to his Daughter's wedding.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
good UPS guy keep it up! you're sooo close!
keep it up! you're sooo close!
- Thread starter
- #969
Came home today and five tires were setting in the driveway. I can't wait until they're mounted, so I rolled a couple to the shop. I think they will work just fine. Try to picture a gray steel wheel in there.
I've been working a little on the seat drawers, but it is baby goat time, so not much time. The drawers will be @ 10x12x5, plenty to stash stuff.
I've been working a little on the seat drawers, but it is baby goat time, so not much time. The drawers will be @ 10x12x5, plenty to stash stuff.
- Thread starter
- #971
Npulver,
Yep, 255/85/16. They seem big in person. I remember running the old 38" Monster Mudders on my 40. Back in the Eighties, they cost $150 a piece. That was some serious money! Who knew?
Yep, 255/85/16. They seem big in person. I remember running the old 38" Monster Mudders on my 40. Back in the Eighties, they cost $150 a piece. That was some serious money! Who knew?
- Thread starter
- #972
Short story: We bought a new guardian dog pup, that lives with the goats 24/7. They take a couple years to get the playfulness out of them and this year we tried her with the new kids. Well, when the first kids were born, she thought they were play toys and must have dragged them around. When we found them, the buck kid was full of mud, in his mouth and nose, I thought he was dead. Luckily his nose moved and we got him to the house, where he spent the next two days in the kitchen.
So, in honor of the new Mud, let me introduce to you " Big Muddy " He's got 4 wheel drive , high ground clearance and will have a nice set of bull bars!
So, in honor of the new Mud, let me introduce to you " Big Muddy " He's got 4 wheel drive , high ground clearance and will have a nice set of bull bars!
- Thread starter
- #973
Bolted in one of the seat drawers, to see how it will work, seems to work fine and I believe they would have a hard time seeing it, standing next to the door, looking in. Media blast and powder coat.
The a/c unit showed up yesterday, so I set in the general area, just to see. I like it, so much nicer than the Old Air unit. One thing I don't like is that alum. plate on the front. I called Restomod and it's just for looks, so it's coming off.
The a/c unit showed up yesterday, so I set in the general area, just to see. I like it, so much nicer than the Old Air unit. One thing I don't like is that alum. plate on the front. I called Restomod and it's just for looks, so it's coming off.
Looks great Ron!!
What vents and control did you get?
What vents and control did you get?
- Thread starter
- #976
I got the stealth control knobs, just three small knobs, that can go anywhere on the dash. Haven't ordered the vents, but going with the small rectangle ones from Classic Auto Air. They have a under dash unit, that's the same length as the center dash, so that will work good. It will hold two vents and the control knobs. The other two vents will be on each side of the dash, for defrosting the side windows.
Thanks again for turning me on to them. It's such a nice system. Makes it a lot cleaner and more thought out, than the others.
Thanks again for turning me on to them. It's such a nice system. Makes it a lot cleaner and more thought out, than the others.
- Thread starter
- #977
Thanks Chris,
Painter called and said another week. I'm getting nervous, thinking of all things I have to do before paint. Always more to do. I wanted to use a satin clear coat, so it wasn't so shiny, but everybody saying it's too hard to get right. You can't sand down the satin clear, like the gloss, so I'm back to the glossy finish. I have enough to think about. I don't know how you're handling two builds!
Onward!
Painter called and said another week. I'm getting nervous, thinking of all things I have to do before paint. Always more to do. I wanted to use a satin clear coat, so it wasn't so shiny, but everybody saying it's too hard to get right. You can't sand down the satin clear, like the gloss, so I'm back to the glossy finish. I have enough to think about. I don't know how you're handling two builds!
Onward!
Sounds like a great plan, looking forward to your install!
Ron,
Did you settle on the 10# Residual Pressure Valve?
I'm looking at the 2# and 10# and see you had a 10# on yours.
Thanks!
Did you settle on the 10# Residual Pressure Valve?
I'm looking at the 2# and 10# and see you had a 10# on yours.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #980
Yes, from what I've read, that's the one to use. There are several good posts on this subject, but I don't have them saved. I'll look around for them.
Are you going to use the stock master cylinder? They have the residual valves already. I used a T100 master and it didn't have any.
Are you going to use the stock master cylinder? They have the residual valves already. I used a T100 master and it didn't have any.
Last edited: