Builds SLOW 71 (3 Viewers)

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:bang: welder's broke. Good fuses, power to the unit, time to take it in. It's almost twenty years old, so I don't feel too bad.

So, I hung the pedals and bracket, along with the master clylinders. Didn't like how close the brake master was to the firewall and the clutch master, so I made a 1/2 inch spacer, to bring it out.

I'm useing a '98 Tacoma brake booster and a '93 T100 master cylinder. Stock clutch master. It seemed to fit on mock up, but I don't like it now, hence the spacer.

Anybody know of any ill effects from putting in the spacer, other than adjusting the rod.

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spacer is ok there...the factory forerunner booster I use came with a factory spacer used by the forerunner...it is about 3/4-1" thick. put some seam sealer on both sides of the spacer before torquing everything down...what was your welder not doing? trigger problem? my welder has spare trigger wires in the stinger cable for this type of thing...also, ground cables can go bad...hope they find something stupid simple and get you back to work for not too much repair cost...
 
Lambcrusher,

I believe it is in the trigger. It's loaded on the flatbed and going in the shop.
 
Pablo,

Yes, the T100 is a disc & drum.

The pedal feels great, but it's just hanging there right now. I'll let you know in a year! :)
 
The welder was a one day deal. Nothing wrong with it! :doh: . The contacts must of stuck together and with me bouncing it around the county, broke them loose. The welding shop put in a new liner, etc. and I'm ready to go.

In the mean time, I mocked up the gas pedal. I've got the same problem as Lil' John, as you can see the pedal was made for a chevy truck. I'm following Lil' John's mod. since I have some channel that will work.

Now I've got two projects going, who says men can't multi-task. I just can't get that bedroom painted! :)

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Since I was cutting the center out of the gas pedal arm anyway, thought I might as well put it in the vise. Helps to have a monster vise. Straight as can be! no heat, no cutting, no welding.

Works great and doesn't hit anything. Those pedals only move about 1".

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Pablo,

The 5.3 engine is a " drive by wire " setup, so I had to use the pedal from the donor truck.

I've read that it can be converted to cable, but needs alot of parts and the computer needs to be played with.

Problem comes in when I try to use the PTO winch and need some throttle. No hand throttle and I'll be by myself in the field.

I'm going high tech! :)
 
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scrapdaddy said:
Pablo,

The 5.3 engine is a " drive by wire " setup

Problem comes in when I try to use the PTO winch and need some throttle. No hand throttle and I'll be by myself in the field.

I'm going high tech! :)
Click to expand...

I wonder if you could use another pedal setup as a "remote" somewhere handy. You could make it have some mechanical resistance so you could set the engine speed... Might have to unplug the actual throttle and plug in your remote but Ives you could plug them both in and have a switch to select between the two. I may be crazy...

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
 
Napster,

Some say crazy, I say innovative thinking! Certainly worth a couple beers around the campfire. Maybe an automotive rheostat to control rpms.

Good Idea!
 
Ron,

Received the strap. Thanks again for sending.

Can't tell the original color, but guessing not black.

Going to drop by local canvas stitcher early next week and see if he can make up a few.

Question.

Have you made any headway on determine your seat bracket versus rear heater?
 
Napster said:
I wonder if you could use another pedal setup as a "remote" somewhere handy. You could make it have some mechanical resistance so you could set the engine speed... Might have to unplug the actual throttle and plug in your remote but Ives you could plug them both in and have a switch to select between the two. I may be crazy...

simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
Click to expand...

Not 100% sure on the pedal sensors in conjunction with the TPS, but i believe if you got a secondary pedal sensor and plugged it in then "learn" the sensor, then swap to the extra sensor and do the same thing. Then you could wire it remotely into your engine bay. would probably want to hook it to a toggle on/off switch (the one in the bay) Completely possible though, but a headache.

If that didnt make sense, maybe i can explain it better later.
 
Chris,

Well, I know the heater won't fit under there now, so I'll have to cut and reweld or raise the whole bracket. I'm going to wait until I buy the seats and go from there.
 
Npulver,

Clear as mud! I'll run it by my wiring guru and let him figure it out. Sounds like what you're saying makes sense, just not to me.

Until today, I didn't think we could do this mod. I'm really hoping it can be worked out. :cool:

Thanks Man!
 
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I didn't get much done today, my Wife made me water the plants. :)

I did finish the gas pedal and the hood release, turned out nice.

You guys got me excited about the throttle, here's a picture of my accelerator cable. Looking at everything and figuring out how it connects to the computer, I can mount it all inside the cab, keeping everything high and dry.

Now, back to the transmission cover.

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Awesome man... Always dig the updates. Seems like you have some good shops around your neck of the woods. It's a struggle to find anyone that actually cares about what they do around here.

Keep up the good work!
 
Thanks! Living @ 40 miles from St.Louis helps, in that respect. Far enough away to not worry about drive bys, yet.
 
Ron,

I realize this suggestion may be sacrilege, but posing anyway.

Would you consider a 60 or 80 series rear heater that would fit in the footprint of one bucket?

Also, have/would you consider running the rear heater lines external?

Chris
 
Chris,

I haven't concidered it, but really like the 55's heater. The lines going external would require more holes to be drilled in the tub.

I'm not sure what a 60/80 heater even looks like. I would have to close the stock mounting holes and I can't weld anymore on the floor.

If I wasn't so far along, then I would concider useing something different.

So, to answer, I'll make the 55 heater work and keep the lines inside ( for now )
 
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