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Hey Travis,

I got your posts, on the transfer case, printed out and well worn already. A great help, thanks.

As far as the power steering box goes, I didn't know what condition mine was in, so I just rebuilt it. Like your build, I won't be running for some time, so we'll see later if I did it right. :)

It took me a good afternoon's worth of time, to rebuild it, but I'm sure you'll be fine with it. My way of thinking is that the new Chevy pump might make the old seals start leaking, so might as well get 'er done.

Good Luck with your's and I'll be right with you.
 
Got alittle forward movement, the hole is welded up and got most of the new parts, from Georg. I'm waiting on all new bolts to come in, CDan, helped with that one. Thought I might as well mount the transmission, to the work bench. I didn't want any gears moving around, so I left it horizontal.

Cleaned on the transfer cases, for two days, good enough!

I should be ready to start putting it back together

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Nobody has posted in a couple days, so I got to look at something, even if it's my own junk.

Waiting on more Transfer Case parts from Georg, Hoping to get it back together before I forget how.

Got some Corvette exhaust manifolds, with the center dump, so they fit inside the frame. Sent out to be ceramic coated.

Bought a new Camaro oil pan, which gives me a couple inches of room between it and the front diff. The truck pan has a sensor in it, which the Camaro pan doesn't, I'll have to figure that out.

While I'm waiting, going to spray the Lizard Skin inside the doors.

That's all I got! :)

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Just finished cleaning my new hubs. What did you paint yours with? No pics on the lizard skin in the doors. I can't wait to get on my doors. My closes now solid, you know without that hallow rattle and shake. It's like a new door.
 
Thanks Osage,

Wish I had more going on, just waiting on parts. It will be nice to get the body sitting on the frame, so I can start putting the drive train in. Have to make my own motor mounts and rear support, but that's the fun stuff, for me.
 
Hey Ron,

I apparently got a different camaro pan - from a 5.7L (early 2000's era); Chev/summit part number 12628771.

It looks like yours may give more clearance to the axle/diff with the sump way in the back, although this one is, overall, still shorter than the truck pan and it does have the receptacle for the sensor.

ry%3D400
ry%3D400




Not such good pics. I'll be pulling the engine out again soon but it's still in there for fitting, etc, etc. I'll try to snap another couple when it's on the stand.

For what it's worth.

Trav.-

PS. Pics of radiator shroud attempt one coming soon - now I remember why I hate fiberglass... - oh well, maybe it'll take a couple tries but it's still enjoyable just tinkering.
 
Hey Travis,

Thanks for posting pictures of your pan. I'm not sure now, if mine is going to be shallow enough. I'll find out soon!

That shroud is going to be nice. I think, it's going to take me a few attempts. Good luck!
 
I got the exhaust pipes all ceramic coated and started to bolt them up, but with the Corvette pipes and the Camaro oil pan, stuff doesn't want to fit. Dip stick isn't going to fit and the motor mounts are going to be a pain. I have to stare at it for awhile.

While I was waiting, got to spray the Lizard skin in all the door panels and in the back. Two coats should be good.

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Osage,

It was a bit of a pain, getting it sprayed in the doors, but not undoable. It really stops the tinny sound. I'm not ready yet, but can't wait to spray the floor. It seals everything up nice.

I want this build, to say the same as my tombstone, " I done what I could do ". :)
 
Ron, you are doing an awesome job with this PIG. The attention to detail is Outstanding. Keep us all posted on your great work. And dont forget the BACON Shortage! (LIKE US PIG OWNERS DONT KNOW.)

Thanks Bob.
 
Thanks Guys, I appreciate your support. I'm just trying to spent some time on each piece and make sure it's right, the best I can. Got a long way to go, hang in there with me and we'll see what happens. :cheers:
 
Man, I covet the ability to be able to strip down to bare metal and then spray on the protection you're giving that classic.:bounce: I still am not certain that I have the patience to go that far but you are an inspiration so maybe.

I'm just about to pull the drivetrain back out and start on the frame so we'll see how much body protection I can get done.

I sent ya' an email with more but here is a couple of the manifolds that I used. I can post more, so let me know if you didn't get the email. But don't want to divert your thread too much.

ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D480


If the eBay seller is accurate these are from a 2005 Corvette (that might be a part number casted in there, and on the heat shield - I'll try to run it). Flanges and downpipes are a bit of a challenge 'cuase the vette piece that mounts up to the manifold is a single part with the cat incorporated. Also with only two bolts - oriented Left and Right relative to the engine and frame - it gets a little tight.

In the FJ60 at least you've just got to be sure to get the engine high enough for the flanges to clear the frame - I guess you could do a little more left-right work, but...??

OK, long enough post.

Keep up the quality work!!

best, Travis.-
 
advice

Hey there Scrapdady
I am slolwly getting ready to assemble all my parts and wanted to ask you about the pre loads, if you wouldn't mind. I noticed that you got a fish scale or the likes and hooked it to you your steering arm and got 11 lbs.
Do you know is there a torque for the knuckle bearing bolts, or is it just tighten it down til you get the lbs of resistance?

The next was if you used the fish scale for the load on the hub. I have heard that it is supposed to be 5lbs for the spindle nut tightness. Does that sound familiar?

I thank you in advance for the help and I'll thank you again after I get it done!
 
On the knuckle bearing bolts, tighten them to @ 71 ft. lbs., then use the fish scale and pull the steering arm with it. You should be between 6 and 13 ft. lbs. Do all of this BEFORE you put in the axle shaft. If your not within those numbers, you can adjust it with adding or subtracting shims, make sure you adjust the top and bottom with the same amount of shims.

As far as wheel bearing preload, I don't use a scale. I tighten the nut very tight while turning hub, then back off until loose. Tighten the nut again while turning hub, make it tight. Finally back off the nut alittle bit, but not total loose, install locking washer and other nut. Tighten that up.

Do some searching on the subject and you'll find better instructions. My way, might not be the best way, on the hubs. I've done alot of hubs that way, over the years and never burned any up, yet! :)

Good luck!
 
hey ron,,,that staring really does work!..i find myself doing it often....i stare and my mind solves the issue!..by the way...bought 4 gallons of the lizard skin plus the spray rig for 325.00..free shipping...cant wait to try it out

osagecruiser
 
Osage,

Man, that was a good price. You're going to like how it turns out.

I just spray Monstaliner bedliner, over the Lizard Skin, tonight. It went on alittle messy, but turned out good.

Hey, make sure you tape everything off good. It does splatter some.

Good luck with it.
 
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