Builds SLOW 71 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
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- Thread starter
- #562
Beat my head on the dash all day. I'm not done, but wanted to explain what I'm trying to do. I'm committed to eliminanting all the padding, so I cut off the body seam, on the top of the dash and started welding the two together.
The dash has slots punched in it for the pad adjustment, which dented the metal pretty good. Got all those filled in and working on filling all the unused holes on the face of the dash.
I would like to leave the Landcruiser name plate alone, without the hole in it, so I'll have one made.
I cut off the bottom dash add on, which had the vacuum shifter, etc. Don't need any of that hanging down.
A long way to go, before it's ready for paint, but working on it.
This isn't for most of you, but I know what I want it to look like, in my head, just hope it turns out, trying to keep it stock looking, if that's possible anymore, we'll see.
The dash has slots punched in it for the pad adjustment, which dented the metal pretty good. Got all those filled in and working on filling all the unused holes on the face of the dash.
I would like to leave the Landcruiser name plate alone, without the hole in it, so I'll have one made.
I cut off the bottom dash add on, which had the vacuum shifter, etc. Don't need any of that hanging down.
A long way to go, before it's ready for paint, but working on it.
This isn't for most of you, but I know what I want it to look like, in my head, just hope it turns out, trying to keep it stock looking, if that's possible anymore, we'll see.
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Neither is yoga, but that doesn't keep 75% of women from wearing yoga pants.
- Thread starter
- #564
Well, I'll stick to messing up my dash, because you really don't want to see me in yoga pants.
Well, I'll stick to messing up my dash, because you really don't want to see me in yoga pants.
Good call.
If you want one to practice on
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I'm glad you're doing this. I've had the same challenge and want to keep the near stock look but eliminate the padding and also accommodate newer gauges for the 5.3L and speedo.
I can't wait for what's in your head to be posted here in a picture so I can copy
Fitzgerald
Hey! Where'd the mountians go?!?!?
Beat my head on the dash all day. I'm not done, but wanted to explain what I'm trying to do. I'm committed to eliminanting all the padding, so I cut off the body seam, on the top of the dash and started welding the two together.
The dash has slots punched in it for the pad adjustment, which dented the metal pretty good. Got all those filled in and working on filling all the unused holes on the face of the dash.
I would like to leave the Landcruiser name plate alone, without the hole in it, so I'll have one made.
I cut off the bottom dash add on, which had the vacuum shifter, etc. Don't need any of that hanging down.
A long way to go, before it's ready for paint, but working on it.
This isn't for most of you, but I know what I want it to look like, in my head, just hope it turns out, trying to keep it stock looking, if that's possible anymore, we'll see.
Cool Ron!
This is exactly what I was wanting to do.
Can't wait to see the final product.
- Thread starter
- #569
Thanks Guys,
I was alittle hesitant to mess with the dash, but I couldn't find good enough pads and I like the utilitarian look anyway, so I'm filling in everything not being used and making my own gauge panel, glove box door, etc.
I want to use the two main gauges, like the stock ones, but updated.
In the center, will be as many as the stock switches and pulls as possible. Lights, vent, etc. I will also have to put some kind switch for both the ARB's and compressor. That's it, I'm not into the airplane cockpit look, just plain and simple.
All the new panels will be powder coated black Alum.
All this is subject to change!
Here's a question for opinion. What color would you paint the dash. Cygnus White or Black. The interior is remaining white, not sure how the dash would look white.
I was alittle hesitant to mess with the dash, but I couldn't find good enough pads and I like the utilitarian look anyway, so I'm filling in everything not being used and making my own gauge panel, glove box door, etc.
I want to use the two main gauges, like the stock ones, but updated.
In the center, will be as many as the stock switches and pulls as possible. Lights, vent, etc. I will also have to put some kind switch for both the ARB's and compressor. That's it, I'm not into the airplane cockpit look, just plain and simple.
All the new panels will be powder coated black Alum.
All this is subject to change!
Here's a question for opinion. What color would you paint the dash. Cygnus White or Black. The interior is remaining white, not sure how the dash would look white.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
matte or flat black, so you don't get blinded by the light reflecting off the dash...
Good call, I'd never thought of that....
- Thread starter
- #573
Lambcrusher,
It would be a satin? black or the Cygnus. I'm thinking the black would be better.
If anybody is planning to do this, the seam holds two pieces of the dash together, which are at different angles, if that makes sence.
When you cut that seam off, the gap will widen between them, so welding becomes harder. Also the whole dash is pretty wavy, with those slots punched in there. To look pretty, you might need some body filler.
Good Luck!
Fitzgerald
Hey! Where'd the mountians go?!?!?
Ron, did you do it in pieces (cut a section,weld, cut a section, weld....) or did you cut it all off and then weld it up?
Thanks.
Thanks.
npulver
Metal Messager
also curious about this as i love what your doing with the dash and also want to do something similar. Really hate the aftermarket dash cap, and even worse is the cracked padding underneath...
Read the entire thread in one sitting. Your dedication and quality of work is inspiring. Keep up the detailed posts and pics. I'm on the edge of my seat to see how it turns out!
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
simple is usually right... 1973 fj55
- Thread starter
- #577
Guys,
I used a die grinder with cut off wheel and cut the entire thing off, but I didn't cut too close to the bottom. I left 1/8th inch standing. The two pieces are spot welded up high and I cut below those.
I then used a flap disc and ground it down slow, on one end first. When I discovered how thin the metal was getting and a gap started to show, so I started tack welding, with the mig, before grinding anymore down. I worked my way down the line and I'm still working on it! Alot of touching up and rewelding, for me.
Somebody that knows better, might have done it different, as mine is alittle wavy. The body shop will fix that or like Delancy offered, Monstaline it.
This is a new adventure for me, chopping on a dash and I believe it will turn out. I'm not out to win a car show, just look good and work.
I used a die grinder with cut off wheel and cut the entire thing off, but I didn't cut too close to the bottom. I left 1/8th inch standing. The two pieces are spot welded up high and I cut below those.
I then used a flap disc and ground it down slow, on one end first. When I discovered how thin the metal was getting and a gap started to show, so I started tack welding, with the mig, before grinding anymore down. I worked my way down the line and I'm still working on it! Alot of touching up and rewelding, for me.
Somebody that knows better, might have done it different, as mine is alittle wavy. The body shop will fix that or like Delancy offered, Monstaline it.
This is a new adventure for me, chopping on a dash and I believe it will turn out. I'm not out to win a car show, just look good and work.
- Thread starter
- #578
Napster,
Thanks for the complements. I'm on the edge, too!
Thanks for the complements. I'm on the edge, too!
- Thread starter
- #579
Man, with all the wagons getting painted, I'm trying to pick up the pace. Sanded down the floor and brushed on the Zero Rust.
I sprayed it up under the dash, in all the hard to reach areas, also.
I'm leaving the dash alone, until I talk with the body guy, as there's going to be alittle putty up there.
So, after the Zero Rust comes the Lizard Skin, then Monstaliner.
I bought a third undercoating gun, that has a two foot hose attached, so I can reach in the cowl and roof pillars, etc. They will all get the treatment.
I sprayed it up under the dash, in all the hard to reach areas, also.
I'm leaving the dash alone, until I talk with the body guy, as there's going to be alittle putty up there.
So, after the Zero Rust comes the Lizard Skin, then Monstaliner.
I bought a third undercoating gun
, that has a two foot hose attached, so I can reach in the cowl and roof pillars, etc. They will all get the treatment.
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Looking great Ron. Keeping up with the Jones' never works for me and only causes problems. Your pace is what you're good at. Your attention to detail still amazed me.
Jason
Jason