A foot away from carb? Do you have a elec pump on it?
Sitting 3 years, wont start (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DenverCruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Here is a picture of my starter set up. As you can see, there is one line that is not wired up to anything (white line).
pics
here ya go
post a pic of what you think is weird if you can
here ya go
post a pic of what you think is weird if you can
- Thread starter
- #24
No, only the original mechanical. Relying on gravity from the line and from spraying fuel/starter fluid directly into the carb.
schematic
sorry I couldnt make out the color codes but this shows the circuit
schematic from coolerman's site
cant make the pic bigger but Blue line is to ammeter
Yellow to ign st
and red from battery to starter
if it is turning over slowly and you got some spark I would say wiring is prob ok----can you try a batt from your DD? If it still turns over slowly with a good battery, check your grounds and connections and clean em up then check your timing is not way out
sorry I couldnt make out the color codes but this shows the circuit
schematic from coolerman's site
cant make the pic bigger but Blue line is to ammeterYellow to ign st
and red from battery to starter
if it is turning over slowly and you got some spark I would say wiring is prob ok----can you try a batt from your DD? If it still turns over slowly with a good battery, check your grounds and connections and clean em up then check your timing is not way out
Last edited:
Have you ruled out a bad or dead battery?
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- #27
Battery is new.
- Thread starter
- #28
Sounds like I should make some new grounds, one from the battery to the frame and one from the starter to the frame. Where do you suggest I get the correct gauge ground from? Should I also just keep the one going from the battery to the engine as well?
Coolerman
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Go to your local auto store, they will have pre-terminated large gauge ground cables in different lengths. Get the shortest cables that will do the job but allow for slight motor movement.
If your existing battery to block ground will reach the frame, then just move it to the frame and get another cable to go from the starter mounting bolt to the frame.
If your existing battery to block ground will reach the frame, then just move it to the frame and get another cable to go from the starter mounting bolt to the frame.
- Thread starter
- #30
Should the engine block not be grounded directly as well?
Coolerman
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
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- Paint Lick, KY
- Website
- www.globalsoftware-inc.com
It will be, by the cable from the frame to the starter bolt. The starter bolts to the bell housing which bolts to the block. Unless your bell housing is not electrically connected to the block there is no reason to run a separate block ground. Just for peace of mind do it anyway... It sure won't hurt anything. 
- Thread starter
- #32
Ahh, true the starter would ground the block, thanks.
Just got home and measured the cables I need. Easy acces bolts alread there. This should be simple! I think I will keep the line to the block as well since it will just be easier.
Just got home and measured the cables I need. Easy acces bolts alread there. This should be simple! I think I will keep the line to the block as well since it will just be easier.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #33
OK, I checked for spark last night. It did spark, but barely. It was extremely weak.
So far I have done:
Cleaned postive connection
Made new grounds (battery to frame, frame to starter)
Replaced, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
What now? Condenser and Coil?
Also, unfortunatly, the new grounds made little to no difference on the starter. Wondering if it is turning it as fast as that long block is supposed to go.
So far I have done:
Cleaned postive connection
Made new grounds (battery to frame, frame to starter)
Replaced, Plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
What now? Condenser and Coil?
Also, unfortunatly, the new grounds made little to no difference on the starter. Wondering if it is turning it as fast as that long block is supposed to go.
starter?
If I were you I'd do a starter voltage drop check
per the links, then I'd check the timing cause it is free to do, then I would replace the starter.
I think you are getting weak spark cause the starter is pulling it all away from the ignition
Starter Voltage Drop Test
Voltage Drop Testing
If I were you I'd do a starter voltage drop check
per the links, then I'd check the timing cause it is free to do, then I would replace the starter.
I think you are getting weak spark cause the starter is pulling it all away from the ignition
Starter Voltage Drop Test
Voltage Drop Testing
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- #35
OK, thanks bsmith123. Any idea how much a digitol voltmeter costs?
DenverCruiser, Go over to Harbor Freight on 4290 Bells Ferry, get a volt meter for around $ 10, good luck.
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- #37
Thanks phocus. 
2-200
I have a $2 one for kicking around the cruiser and a $200 one for when I get serious
you can get them at ACE Hardware or most autoparts or any big chain store tool dept also
I have a $2 one for kicking around the cruiser and a $200 one for when I get serious
you can get them at ACE Hardware or most autoparts or any big chain store tool dept also
- Thread starter
- #39
Sure enough, my friend and I were able to do some tests with a multimeter I got and it looks like the starter is robbing all the juice. Thanks for the links. Now time to go purchase a new starter.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
fxxxing ground everything man, 90% of problems are bad grounds. BUT.... i used to have a 40 with the 2f engind and it sat for a year, the only thing i had to do is clean out and sand the distributor cap and scrape the gunk off the rotor. but if your not cheap like me, you should just go get and new cap'n rotor.
