Side Mirror Relocation Brackets (1 Viewer)

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Jul 30, 2003
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Location
Madison, MS
I struggled with the issue of what to do about my side mirrors with my half doors or no doors about a year ago. My goal was to have functional mirrors on the cheap that looked original. The best way I could find to do this was to mount my OEM mirrors somewhere other than the door. The nearest suitable location was the windshield hinge. I saw a pic of a military 40 or 45 that had done this. So I made a bracket that used the two side facing lower windshield hinge screws. It worked great on the driver's side, but due to the cage, the passenger's side was blocked a little. My 40 is a 1977 with the door mounted mirrors.

I also bought a set of pre '77 mirror arms with door hinge mount hardware. I made another bracket that uses the same two windshield hinge locations for the pre '77 arms. I have not mounted the passenger's side yet, but I don't expect it to have the same slight cage blockage issue as the '77-83 mirrors. My goals were met: functional, cheap, original mirrors.

These brackets are fairly easy to make if you have an angle grinder, a drill, and some time. Realizing that not everyone has that combination, I am considering making and selling these brackets. I am meeting with a local fab shop with the right equipment to cut these out quick and cost effectively. Its just a flat piece with four or five holes, so it shouldn't cost much. The same design works on the right or left side, so that helps keep it simple too. I'm sure the fabricator will have some suggestions to keep it simple and cheap.

One question I have for MUD is: What thickness steel should I use? I want it thick enough to not move or shake in the wind, but thin enough to be the weak link. I would want the cheap bracket to bend before your expensive OEM mirror does.

Second question: Any interest?

Here are a few pics showing both brackets.
RVM Bracket 77-83_1.jpg
RVM Bracket 77-83_2.jpg
RVM Bracket 77-83_3.jpg
 
Pics of the pre '77 bracket and arm...
RVM Bracket -76_1.jpg
RVM Bracket -76_2.jpg
RVM Bracket -76_3.jpg
 
Pull the pin out of your mirror bracket and re-tool the mirror bracket to fit vertically with the 2 bolts on you chassis. You can extend it out a little bit so the passenger mirror is at a better angle to see past the roll bar. You then have the option of mounting on the top of the window bracket instead of the lower part. When you go back to full doors you can just pull the pin and put the old mirror bracket back on.
 
Pull the pin out of your mirror bracket and re-tool the mirror bracket to fit vertically with the 2 bolts on you chassis. You can extend it out a little bit so the passenger mirror is at a better angle to see past the roll bar. You then have the option of mounting on the top of the window bracket instead of the lower part. When you go back to full doors you can just pull the pin and put the old mirror bracket back on.

Any pics of this. I just don't follow the description above. Thanks
 
nice job :) ...i like the home brew idea...simple and functional....you could even put a long bolt thru and use that point as the upper hold to a highlift jack mount

I like the way you think. I'll have to check to see how it lines up with the side steps.
 
Not sure if this is what mcwinery was trying to explain. I found this reference on a Craigslist posting... might give some ideas
fj40mirror.jpg
 
if you still want the mirrors usable when you flip the windshield down, you'd have to mount the mirrors on the lower brackets - just sayin'
LandCruiser - 04.jpg
 
What do those mirrors cost from the usual vendors? I'm talking about a bracket to use your existing OEM mirrors for around $25 a pair. Any interest?
 
If you move the mirror mount back to the hinge bolt on both sides, you would probably find the passanger side mirror would clear the roll bar. Overall great idea!!!
RVM%20Bracket%2077-83_2.jpg
 
if you still want the mirrors usable when you flip the windshield down, you'd have to mount the mirrors on the lower brackets - just sayin'

This is the way mine are mounted..
 
I was thinking just making a new 2 bolt bracket and mount upright. It would allow the passenger mirror to me further back and stick out past the roll cage. Then your bracket would not stick out towards the front of the LC. BTW, all the mirrors shake so badly driving down the road anyway, that hey are barely usable.
 
If you move the mirror mount back to the hinge bolt on both sides, you would probably find the passanger side mirror would clear the roll bar. Overall great idea!!!

I tried this. Two problems. First you would have to open up the upper right bolt hole on the mirror arm base to accomodate the larger windshield frame bolt. Second, the lower bolt would not clear the cowl which would force the arm to tip toward the rear of the truck. I'll take a second look at that, but I was trying to keep it simple. Thanks for the feedback.
 
That mounting doesn't allow any swing. Brush and trees will be a problem
attachment.php

It allows the same swing that the arm would have if mounted to the door hinges. It can swing up till it touches the windshield frame. The mirror on the end of the arm would be the only potential casualty. You could pop the mirror off the arm if on a tight trail.
 
I was thinking just making a new 2 bolt bracket and mount upright. It would allow the passenger mirror to me further back and stick out past the roll cage. Then your bracket would not stick out towards the front of the LC. BTW, all the mirrors shake so badly driving down the road anyway, that hey are barely usable.

A bracket that extends toward the back of the truck would need a couple of bends and it could interfere with the door opening. My mirrors are rock solid with no shakes up to 62 mph with the brackets shown. I have heard the aftermarket windshield hinge mounted mirrors can be very shaky and hard to see around the cage.
 
Boy, I like that idea but my windshield dream hinge mount now has a socket for the no top rack (outdoorfamilyguy), a pin for my hi-lift jack, and a mirror mount. You guys are stuffing my head with so many great ideas it's bout to 'splode.
Keep 'em coming!
 
Second, the lower bolt would not clear the cowl which would force the arm to tip toward the rear of the truck.

If you thread the bracket, the bottom bolt would not hit the cowl. Having one hole larger would not compromise the attachment if you wanted to put back on the door.

"It allows the same swing that the arm would have if mounted to the door hinges. It can swing up till it touches the windshield frame. "

If your bar hits anything it will bend. Best if the bar moves front to back.

Still a great idea!!
 
Or make the bottom bolt a stud welded to the plate with an outboard nut. Or make the stud a high lift stud also?
 

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