Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
[Sorry for hijacking the thread in advance]
Taco - do you have any recent pictures of your current set up? I know that were/are adjusting your gear and I'd like to see how you're currently set up.
Shower system?
- Thread starter NY2LA
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Taco - do you have any recent pictures of your current set up? I know that were/are adjusting your gear and I'd like to see how you're currently set up.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
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- #22
This is a bit more than a shower; it's a whole bathroom: Bath2go
Looks like an electric boiler is an option, or you can use gas. You can also get it painted to match the vehicle.
The mounting system shown destroys ground clearance and hatch access. But it's 250 pounds--not horrible. So maybe it could be mounted on some kind of custom hitch swing arm platform to allow normal use of the hatch and retain ground clearance? Not sure if the leverage would overload our hitch or not.
Thoughts?
Looks like an electric boiler is an option, or you can use gas. You can also get it painted to match the vehicle.
The mounting system shown destroys ground clearance and hatch access. But it's 250 pounds--not horrible. So maybe it could be mounted on some kind of custom hitch swing arm platform to allow normal use of the hatch and retain ground clearance? Not sure if the leverage would overload our hitch or not.
Thoughts?
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What about something like RinseKit® Portable Showers // Keep You & Your Gear Clean Anywhere
They have a water heater option.
They have a water heater option.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
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- #24
Thank you for the lead! Aside from the fact that it looks like it was made in 1971, this looks likes like a great device! Could be used with something like this hitch mounted watertank: Amazon product ASIN B07W44V1G3
I might look into this. Seems simple and effective. Could always boil water at camp to ramp up heating times.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Similar to what Taco mentions... My trusty Noco starter has a 12v outlet which can run the kariba pump anywhere...without even putting a dent in its capacity. Heating one 5 gallon jerry at a time works bc it can be pulled off the truck and used wherever.
Heat up the jerry at the truck...then take it somewhere private/practical.
i know you said no rooftop water, but that waterport is junk. I made a simple sch40 canister, painted it black, and water was plenty hot after being in the sun all day.
Builds - The Big Bad Rad Dad LX (Dissent) Build
I think these plastic/fiberglass things just have a limited service life. For $250 a spin you can afford to get 3-5 years out of one and then move on. I use mine for four days every winter (snow trips) and it's made it 7 years, but I don't think it has too many more years in it, maybe 3? I...
forum.ih8mud.com
tank in action if you scroll up a few posts from this link.
NY2LA
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NY2LA
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- #30
Hey, guys. Check out the setup this this guy made: . I'm leaning strongly toward this approach.
He's using a Glind heat exchanger with a pressure sensing water pump and thermostatic valve -- all contained in his engine. I'm thinking I'll power it with my Switch Pros and running the intake tubing to the back of the truck, where I can have a water tank mounted to the hitch.
With his system, you can conceal pretty much everything other than the water source in the engine compartment. You need to heat up your engine a bit, but then you can turn it off and shower using just your battery to power the pump. No need to pop the hood, and you get a constant temp. Seems like a great approach.
He's using a Glind heat exchanger with a pressure sensing water pump and thermostatic valve -- all contained in his engine. I'm thinking I'll power it with my Switch Pros and running the intake tubing to the back of the truck, where I can have a water tank mounted to the hitch.
With his system, you can conceal pretty much everything other than the water source in the engine compartment. You need to heat up your engine a bit, but then you can turn it off and shower using just your battery to power the pump. No need to pop the hood, and you get a constant temp. Seems like a great approach.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I like the ability to put things not in the cargo area. A reason why I'm to a big fan of goal zero battery packs in the back.
But... I have not found it common to have the engine hot, and then be ready to take a shower. It's more of a find camp, eat, set up. Then shower at the end of the day, when the motor has been cooled off for some time. So then you have to fire the motor back up, use fuel and another cold start (I'm weird with cold starts).
There has also been far more trails, than not, where I could not of showered in proximity of the front of my truck. That's me though. Especially in the mountains where trails are tight, and water source are not able to be reached with the truck. The video above is definitely not the US, and things that work overseas, don't necessarily translate over here
After all that, I think if it works for you, rock it. I'd love to see what you come up with. I have my doubts, but simply offering a friendly "possibly sucks" opinion before you invest time. But, you'll never know unless you try.
(I had the same set up on my '96 Tacoma that the video above talks about. There was a reason it was not done on my '07 FJC, and my '11 LC200. But that's me and my personality)
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NY2LA
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- #32
@Taco2Cruiser Good points--thank you. In my case, I don't mind starting and running the engine for 20 minutes. That would be a good interval for me to gather fresh clothes and washing supplies, handle minor tasks, etc. I also am not worried about proximity to water or privacy. I'm on privately owned lands for the most part, will carry my own water usually, and I'll have a lightweight pull down shower stall mounted on the rack.
My Goal Zero will live behind the front passenger seat, mostly. It will also come out and go onto a cart with me into places the car can't reach.
My Goal Zero will live behind the front passenger seat, mostly. It will also come out and go onto a cart with me into places the car can't reach.
cboyd
GOLD Star
on my Helton, i have to keep the engine running to keep the hot water coming. not enough to just get the engine warm and then turn it off.
that said, when running it will melt your skin if you start with ambient water temp (or 1 recirc pass if cold water) - so a thermostatic mixing valve is a very good idea - especially for the bust of water that comes right after shutting the water off at the shower head for a navy shower!
that said, when running it will melt your skin if you start with ambient water temp (or 1 recirc pass if cold water) - so a thermostatic mixing valve is a very good idea - especially for the bust of water that comes right after shutting the water off at the shower head for a navy shower!
NY2LA
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- #34
@cboyd According to the above video, that's not necessary with the Glind, but I can't verify the authenticity of that claim.
Yes, what he did was to insert a Y splitter on the feed that comes out of the pump. So cold water directly from the pump gets sent to the thermostatic valve. Meanwhile, hot water runs through the heat exchange system and also gets sent to the valve. So the valve mixes the two streams and outputs a controlled temp. But what I don't understand is the interaction between the valve and heating controls inside the cabin. The Glind's instructions say to adjust temperature using the heat controls. So how do those controls and the valve in this modified approach interact? Maybe just some fiddling is needed in the beginning to find the right combo adjustments.
Yes, what he did was to insert a Y splitter on the feed that comes out of the pump. So cold water directly from the pump gets sent to the thermostatic valve. Meanwhile, hot water runs through the heat exchange system and also gets sent to the valve. So the valve mixes the two streams and outputs a controlled temp. But what I don't understand is the interaction between the valve and heating controls inside the cabin. The Glind's instructions say to adjust temperature using the heat controls. So how do those controls and the valve in this modified approach interact? Maybe just some fiddling is needed in the beginning to find the right combo adjustments.
the electric boiler you linked is used by ASPW @ 4xoverland in Aus. there is a bit more to making this work than just the water heater. his system uses 2 water pumps, a separate tank, mixer valve, switches, etc. That said is would be the a great system, just be Prepard for some signifiant engineering in the truck.
Sorry but a hitch mounted water tank is not a great idea.
cboyd
GOLD Star
I looked at the video and pleased that his system and mine are reasonably similar, except I dont have on-board water (OBW) --yet. currently my pump and thermo-mixer are in a 50cal ammo box with quick connects - until i formulate what I am going to do with OBW
I still can't see how the GLIND referenced in the video can make hot continuously without a continuous flow of coolant (ie engine running) unless there is an aux water pump, which to me would add unnecessary mechanical complication to the vehicle. running the vehicle for shower is completely fine - and the bonus is full batteries! Important if you're stationary for a couple of days and the solar loading is low due to shorter days or clouds (assuming one is running solar panels).
secondly, i doubt the claim that if you put xxx temp in you get 88C water out - that's not really how mechanical heat exchanging works, there is some loss in the exchange, so in my case it's +40F from the input water temp.
in my experience, you fiddle with he thermostatic device a bit to get the "average suitable temp" for all those using it. the variable is the temp of the water going into the system. if from OBW source, then it's probably ambient and you get +40F on the source. if the sum of ambient + 40F is more than the setting of the thermostatic mixer, then the water temp doesn't need to be modified and it'll be consistent. if the water is cold tap water, or from a mountain stream, then recirculating it once and then back through means you'll usually be more than the setting and still doesn't need fiddling. in my case, everyone gets 1 5gal jery can of water for the shower, so recirc isn't a big issue, and it helps keep water consumption down. most of the time i can finish a good shower (with navy procedure) in about 2.5 gals - which is still a lot!
I have the shown quick-pitch ensuite too, and like he said - it's awesome!
I still can't see how the GLIND referenced in the video can make hot continuously without a continuous flow of coolant (ie engine running) unless there is an aux water pump, which to me would add unnecessary mechanical complication to the vehicle. running the vehicle for shower is completely fine - and the bonus is full batteries! Important if you're stationary for a couple of days and the solar loading is low due to shorter days or clouds (assuming one is running solar panels).
secondly, i doubt the claim that if you put xxx temp in you get 88C water out - that's not really how mechanical heat exchanging works, there is some loss in the exchange, so in my case it's +40F from the input water temp.
in my experience, you fiddle with he thermostatic device a bit to get the "average suitable temp" for all those using it. the variable is the temp of the water going into the system. if from OBW source, then it's probably ambient and you get +40F on the source. if the sum of ambient + 40F is more than the setting of the thermostatic mixer, then the water temp doesn't need to be modified and it'll be consistent. if the water is cold tap water, or from a mountain stream, then recirculating it once and then back through means you'll usually be more than the setting and still doesn't need fiddling. in my case, everyone gets 1 5gal jery can of water for the shower, so recirc isn't a big issue, and it helps keep water consumption down. most of the time i can finish a good shower (with navy procedure) in about 2.5 gals - which is still a lot!
I have the shown quick-pitch ensuite too, and like he said - it's awesome!
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
@BloggerL
Any reason for excluding propane based heaters? A smaller 5lb tank can be used for other purposes (e.g. fire-ban safe campfire ring, portable bbq/grill etc).
www.eztankless.com
Any reason for excluding propane based heaters? A smaller 5lb tank can be used for other purposes (e.g. fire-ban safe campfire ring, portable bbq/grill etc).
EZ Camp Champ
CSA Certified Portable Outdoor Tankless Water Heater 37,500 BTU (Propane) 1.45 GPM @ 45 degree temp rise 1/2" water & gas connection Electronic Ignition CSA Certified 14.5" Tall x 11.4" Wide x 5.9" Depth 12 lbs User's Manual The CampChamp from EZ Tankless, Inc. is the first CSA approved portable...
NY2LA
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- #39
@Sac Cerevisiae Everyone has their needs and prefs. In my case, I don't want any additional boxes/tubes hanging off the truck, especially when I can tuck them away in the engine bay. This vehicle is going to go a lot of places, cover a lot of varied terrain, and that includes the streets of New York, the wilderness, and everything in between. I want to keep the vehicle sleek on the inside and be able to press a button and go as much as possible. Also, this vehicle is mostly for work. I already use massive amounts of other gear unrelated to the vehicle--huge cases of stuff I need to load/unload/setup/and operate--so I don't want to pile more stuff on to manage. Press a power button in the dash, connect the hose, wait a bit for heat, and then go--that's what I need, and the spirit of what I need for everything on this vehicle, really.
Since it's not a family camping vehicle, I'm not going to be doing much cooking. I'm the guy with the empty fridge who forgot how to turn on his stove at home. In the exceptional cases of having a cookout, I'd just bring a portable stove.
Since it's not a family camping vehicle, I'm not going to be doing much cooking. I'm the guy with the empty fridge who forgot how to turn on his stove at home. In the exceptional cases of having a cookout, I'd just bring a portable stove.
