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I've been looking for some small parts trays at a reasonable price that would fit Lista, Stanley-Vidmar, etc type cabinets. Found these Tekton blow molded plastic trays for $7ea. Fairly thin plastic but fine for my use. 13.5" x 10.25" 4, 7, 8 or 12 compartment. I think they have a larger size too. Got plenty of the metal dividers and I use those too but wanted something different.

www.tekton.com

12-Cavity Parts Tray for Lidded Drawer and Open Top Drawer | TEKTON

Organize and keep small parts secure in your L-Boxx stacking organization system lidded or open top drawers with 12 separate compartments. OLB81312.
www.tekton.com www.tekton.com

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Waorani said:
I've been looking for some small parts trays at a reasonable price that would fit Lista, Stanley-Vidmar, etc type cabinets. Found these Tekton blow molded plastic trays for $7ea. Fairly thin plastic but fine for my use. 13.5" x 10.25" 4, 7, 8 or 12 compartment. I think they have a larger size too. Got plenty of the metal dividers and I use those too but wanted something different.

www.tekton.com

12-Cavity Parts Tray for Lidded Drawer and Open Top Drawer | TEKTON

Organize and keep small parts secure in your L-Boxx stacking organization system lidded or open top drawers with 12 separate compartments. OLB81312.
www.tekton.com www.tekton.com

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Coulda pumped those out on the Bambu printer...
 
Waorani said:
Picked up this hydraulic table for cheap today. No idea what the capacity is but made for lifting/sliding horses for CT scans. It's a beast - 66" x 88" and ~3500lbs. Only drops to 20in but raises to 72in. Round plate rotates and power slides back and forth. Not sure what I'll do with it other than just use a heavy/adjustable table.

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Pulled the round top off the horse lift and built a free-standing/rotating table. Pic doesn't it justice - 66" across and 850lbs. Heavy-duty 8" casters from a surplus military cart. Frame will get a plate in the bottom for storage. Turned out nice enough I may refinish/paint the top.

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Discovered some parts were missing from my Di-Acro No.4 finger brake while working on a project, which prompted me to look up a bunch of photos of them online. I also chanced across a couple of operators manuals with detailed diagrams of the brake so I should be able to piece it back together. Reading through the manuals I realized these brakes are far more versatile than I thought and have a lot of scope for custom tooling for specific jobs.
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I got a little carried away and took a bunch of parts off, cleaned them and reassembled it. I have a much better understanding of the features and what they're used for now. Someday I'll fully disassemble, clean, repaint and reassemble it, but that will have to wait.
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Your brake looks like it went through similar colors as the stand I'm working on - dark green, light green, grey...

I sandblasted off four coats of paint and then powder coated it.

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PAToyota said:
Your brake looks like it went through similar colors as the stand I'm working on - dark green, light green, grey...

I sandblasted off four coats of paint and then powder coated it.

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Looks like pretty much the same colors! Not a huge fan of the patchwork and peeling paint I've got, but it works and that's all that counts right now.
 
Finally got some work done on the Champion No. 98 post drill. Cleaned and degreased all the parts, media blasted all the castings and prepped them for paint.
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Got a couple of coats of paint on a few small parts, I'll hand paint the larger parts with a brush, the gear teeth are nigh well impossible to mask off properly.
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First coat of paint on the rest of the parts. I need to pick up a little bit of gold paint and a fine brush to do the raised lettering.
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Worked on the lettering this afternoon. Definitely a learning experience, took a while to get the hang of the paint and how much to put on in a single coat but I feel like it turned out pretty good for a first attempt.
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All finished up, waiting to see what finish my dad prefers for the wood mounting board. Really happy with how it turned out, come springtime I’ll give my Star Forge No.146 the same treatment.
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Another tool acquisition, a Champion No.45 blower forge. Needs a full restoration like the post drill, no idea where I’m going to put it once it’s done but really looking forward to heating up some metal once it’s done!
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Nitecore NWL20
I wanted to show this off since I haven't been able to find anything else like it. Yeah it's bright, compact, and good on battery-many are these days. What sets it apart is using REMOVABLE standardized 21700 batteries! It's also really versatile with positioning given the adjustable angle base, with magnets and a hook. Plus usb C charging. I know it's just a light but I'm genuinely impressed at how well designed it is.
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^ yes. I am still stuck with 18650s (I know, I know...) but I also want my lights to have removable batteries. Unfortunately, it does look like the manufacturers are moving away from those.
 
I've wanted a cold saw for years but don't have enough use to justify the crazy prices for a new one. Just got this Jet 275 off Gov Planet for a reasonable cost/distance away. Jet wouldn't be my first choice but beggars can't be choosers. Blade and retaining flange missing but otherwise seems to work like it should. Jet wants as much for their blade as I paid for the saw so need to look at cheaper options.

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And how much do taxpayers have to pay for a cold saw that can be bought new for $3500???????

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Cold saws are awesome. I buy all my blades from these guys: Metal Sawing Machines - http://www.klingelhofer.com/

I cut all my steel parts with a 13" Wagner automatic coldsaw. 10hp @ 45 rpm and 2000 cuts per hour in 1" mild steel. Magnificent machines.

If the coldsaw clamps both sides of the cut in the vise the sawed finish will look exactly like the part was machined.
 
I never knew circular saws came larger than 7 1/4" until I recently started a heavy timber frame project. I needed a saw that would cut 3"+ to make tenons in 8x8 rough cut timbers. Have been very happy with my Makita 7 1/4" worm drive cordless so I went with the 40v Makita 10 1/4" worm drive which will cut 3 3/4" deep at 90 degrees. Beast of a saw. I will still have a little bit of hand sawing to do but very little. FWIW they do make 16" circular saws but I honestly can't imagine trying to use one. Who knew?

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