Should I repair or replace CV axel? (1 Viewer)

[landarcht]

I recently got a slight lift ~2" with OME rear springs and shocks, front has a set of older KYB shocks, in order to compensate for the height, mechanic turned up the torsion bar probably a bit too high at the front, within days there's visible evidence the grease from CV is leaking onto front passenger inner tire well. Grease has not dripped down yet. This is a reputable 5 star local mechanic, but I'm a bit disappointed that they did not warn me of turning the torsion too tight may cause this. The only reason why I think this was the cause because the car was in their shop for routine maintenance and all the oils were replaced including transfer case and transmission with a thorough under carriage check, nothing was detected.
Long story short, I need some recommendation if this can be repaired or should I just replace the CV axel (what they recommended) due to the labor to repair not being worth the time/cost.
Car completely drives fine at the moment, is this something serious or can I wait for another 2500 miles until my next oil change to do it all together? I also may be taking to a different mechanic.

 

[js47]

Likely nothing to repair. If not too much grease seeped out then just reclamp the boots with worm drive clamps and you should be good. If a lot of grease seeped out then you should add more grease before reclamping.

Might also want to consider adding a diff drop.

 

[landarcht]

I did go back and had them adjust the torsion a bit because the front was riding too harsh due to tightness of the torsion. I don't mind the slight rake now after the adjustment. I'm surprised that supposedly an honest and reputable mechanic would suggest me to replace the CV axel which will cost a pretty penny.

 

[AlpineAccess]

It's common to replace a bad CV on cars because when they go they go. Land cruisers are an exception in that you can often replace parts and/or rebuild a wear component. The tech isn't wrong in suggesting it, but in this case it isn't your best option.

 

[utflowerman]

Don’t be mad at the mechanic…”lift” a 100 on older axles and you will see problems shortly. Just the nature of the front end geometry.

 

[landarcht]

I'm not at the mechanic other than if he had told me what you just did as a "heads up" of potential issue that would have been enough. Given the spring install was done only two weeks ago along with alignment with no issues. But like you said, with 160K miles on it, maybe the lift just accelerated it.
Either way, I will take it to the shop and see if it can be repaired like previously suggested or enough damage for replacement.

 

[100d ua]

It's very common for changing the geometry of the CV axles to cause the CV boots to rip and leak grease, especially on older vehicles. If you have some basic hand tools and willpower, rebuilding the OE CV axles is really simple.

If you want to bust out the wallet, you're going to pay a pretty penny for new OE axles, aftermarket ones don't last long on these cars.

 

[xplore]

If it just ripped, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Make sure it's packed with grease and reclamp it.

For reference, I recently picked up my first 100 series that had a ripped CV boot when I got it. According to dealer service records, the previous owner declined to repair the issue when it was noted SIX YEARS AGO! Maybe that's because they were quoted over $1500 for the repair. Mine has about 30K miles fewer than yours, but this has endured years of abuse on that joint, and it's still going. In my case, I am planning to replace the front axels as a preventative measure when I do the brakes and wheel bearings, but I wouldn't sweat it if I were in your shoes.

 

[landarcht]

I guess what was explained to me was the CV boot crack (I thought it was the CV axel crack-in that case wouldn't I unable to even drive?), but I from looking at the boot with the wheel turned I'm unable to detect it other than some splatter grease mixed with rain water in the inner tire well, maybe I need to look at it from the bottom up. The mechanic recommended that the axel replaced and/or ball bearings repacked? Sorry I'm not that mechanically inclined. But I found another mechanic that only deals with imports with good reputation and get a second opinion and hope this can be remedied without replacing the axels.

 

[Tanner H]

Post photos if you can. Your boots are probably fine and might just need new clamps. If there are no signs of the boots ripping/torn, then I would simply reband them and enjoy.

If you are concerned about loss of grease, then for peace of mind you can cut the existing bands, pull the boots back, clean internals, regrease and re-band. This all can be done without even pulling the axles out of the truck.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I did go back and had them adjust the torsion a bit because the front was riding too harsh due to tightness of the torsion. I don't mind the slight rake now after the adjustment. I'm surprised that supposedly an honest and reputable mechanic would suggest me to replace the CV axel which will cost a pretty penny.

The mechanic might still be right. We don't know all the details.

When lifting a 100, you should default to including a diff drop. Lifting without the drop adds some stress to the CVs. It's not a death sentence, but it inevitably creates more wear on them.

If the boots are cracked/torn, then replacing is not much of a stretch. The labor to remove, disassemble, clean, reboot, reassemble, reinstall is significant. Enough so that from a financial perspective you're probably better buying a complete new axle - even the $500 Genuine Toyota ones. It probably only takes one additional R&R to pay for that axle. IE, if you have to redo it once, you should have just bought the new axle the first time.

 

[landarcht]

Thank you YotaMD Guy! Those are the EXACT words and approach the mechanic told me to take. I was not aware of the diff. drop and they only adjusted the torsion bar for me to raise the front a bit, maybe raised too much, when I went back to have them turned down a bit, that's why they discovered the leak.
Has anyone heard of CVJ Axles? I'm thinking to go this route.

9534 Archives - CVJ Axles

www.cvjreman.com

 

[liveoak]

Those look pretty nice from the description. If it was me, I would keep the original axle and reboot/re-grease it either with Toyota boots or the silicone ones on that website unless someone chimes in that they are no good.
It has been my experience that once there is a small leak, there will soon be a large leak, fix it now before it cracks and dirt gets in there.

 

[Tanner H]

CVJ AXLES: you're just buying used axles with new grease and boots. internals are still old, axle ends/splines are still old/worn down and probably have more miles than your axles.. you're paying $$$ for someone to slap on the $70 reboot kit I spoke of earlier.

He also charges a core...which means he gets your 160k axles basically for free when he sends you his 300k axles you paid top dollar for.

 

[landarcht]

Tanner, thanks for that note! That's a really bad deal.

 

[landarcht]

Found these OEM's at good price, I assume this is just one side...

Genuine OEM CV Axle (Left, Right, Front) Part# 43430-60040 Fits 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser: Up To 35% Off On Every Order And Guaranteed Fit When You Enter Your VIN | Earnhardt Toyota Scion Parts

1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser OEM Part # 43430-60040 - CV Axle (Left, Right, Front)

parts.earnhardttoyota.com

 

[landarcht]

Here are the photos. Looks like only the front passenger is leaking. No noise when turned all the way.

 

[Tanner H]

yeah looks like your inner cv split and did more than just leak. Hard to tell in the photos but might be full on split based on how much grease was thrown around.

Normally when 100's are lifted on old axles, they tend to leak out of the ends a little bit...this one appears to have split on you. I'm assuming this is an aftermarket or rebuild oem axle based on the boot clamps and logo on the axle itself. Company could have used non-oem boots that simply dried up and cracked on you once the angle was changed after x amount of years.

 

[landarcht]

really? I'm the first and only owner of this car and I've never replaced the axle that I recall...

 

[ramangain]

That date near the scan pattern suggests a 2017 date of some sort to me. You're quite sure you're still running the factory original OEM front axles?

I'm not trying to instill fear or doubt; more along the lines of having all information so the right recommendations get made.