SHOCKS

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Drivers side shock... drill a small hole... (small meaning about 1in) I started by using an air chisel from underneath and marking a dent from underneath in line with the top of the shaft.. when I popped the carpet back the underlay was cracked right where I dented it giving me a point to start my drilling... be careful as there are some lines underneath so drill slow and shallow...

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hole

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again


I did use Duct tape with a ring of sealant on the floor surface and also on the tape itself to make a seal once I was done.. for some reason the pictures didnt show on the camera so I am not taking more..

I am starting to think the shocks may have been replaced once before but I just dont know.. they still had some kick back when depressed by hand but about 1/5th of the new ones in comparison... although there was never any record of them being done through all the recorded records.. either way they are done now...

I hope they ride well.. as they seem to bounce or dip under my weight fairly easy... so on road I will see...
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Rancho RS9000
 
Holy crap, all you need it a ratchet box wrench and some vise grips. It is NOT a job that needs to cut a hole in the body.

Just suck it up and do it right.

My plan is Bilstiens and some Air Ride bags in the coils for when I tow.

Stock coils should "last" a lifetime unless you really overload the truck.

That said, I love OME springs....
 
I'd kill for that lift.:cheers::beer::clap:

However, 7/8" gear wrench makes the rr shock R&R possible without drilling into precious sheet metal . . . if it ain't hard, it ain't worth doing, imho. I seem to recall using a strap wrench to turn the shock while the nut was held in place with that awesome gear wrench.:wrench:

Back on topic, Billsteins all around. HUGE difference in handling, especially on the highway. However, it would not take much to improve on the originals, which were beyond shot at 95k.

I did have problems with the Billstein parts in that I did not receive complete install materials in one of the boxes. The retailer (4wheelparts) had the factory ship them to me direct.
 
um yeah.... well the side I drilled the hole was not coming apart... simple... would not budge after about 2 turns... and with a couple of lines up there near it I wasnt messing with other solutions...

Most the known guys on this forum had suggested the hole method but for both... I did one side and I dont regret it... is a hoel you seal back up after in a place you NEVER see...

and as far as install instructions ^^^ what do you need? put them int eh way you took them off.. bushing and washers take note and put the same way)
 
Replaced the stocks with Bilstien B6 HD at about 100k. Just got it back from its 150k service/Alternator - left rear is toast - leaking and basically inop. I'll dens it back and see if its warrantable - but little disappointed. Im constantly on development sites - but its not been wheeled hard. Woulda hoped to get more than 50k

Genuine Toyota - tho covered by lifetime warranty and less than $40 was my first choice just to get it done - but they're on manual and unavailable. So I said screw it ordered a Bilstein locally and if they'll warrnt the broken one i'll swap into the other side.

Still the B6 do a mcuh better job than stock.
 
People reading this thread. Please don't cut a hole in your LC/LX!!! I used the vice grip, ratchet wrench method and had mine off in about 10 minutes! My truck has 100K miles and some corrosion from living near te sea in it's former life. PB Blaster is your friend!
 
I didn't cut holes when i did mine a couple of years ago but wished i had on the right rear. It wasn't so hard to break the nut loose...it just took so long to remove and replace the top nut due to limited wrench travel. My install was compounded by having to lay on the garage floor in january weather.
 
When I did my rears I found the nut to be very corroded (my truck is originally from Wisconsin) and was unable to turn the nut with or without the vise grip...but I sawed the top of the strut off wit a sawzall and installed new ones without a problem.I don't think I would like an extra hole in my truck just for strut removal/installation reason as there could be other more challenging things I would keep my "hole" technique for...;)
 
Hmmmm, just noticed this unless I am wrong. The Bilstein HD shocks from Summit are cheaper for the backs, and from Tirerack the fronts are cheaper. Part numbers match.

Fronts from Tirerack $66 each
Rears from Summit $74.95 each

Total would be $281.90 plus tax and shipping from both.....

So I guess that would really save you much. Just interesting that they have the opposite cheaper.
 
options2 said:
Hmmmm, just noticed this unless I am wrong. The Bilstein HD shocks from Summit are cheaper for the backs, and from Tirerack the fronts are cheaper. Part numbers match.

Fronts from Tirerack $66 each
Rears from Summit $74.95 each

Total would be $281.90 plus tax and shipping from both.....

So I guess that would really save you much. Just interesting that they have the opposite cheaper.
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eshocks.com: Shocks and Struts: Landcruiser J10 / FJ62
 
I installed the Bilstein's. Replaced stock shocks with 113,000 miles on them.

Less loose. Less floaty feel. Corners better.

Noticeably rougher. Not bad but I can feel smaller bumps that I did not notice before.

I have zero corrosion so my top rear nuts came loose easily. 22mm box ratchet is 100% mandatory for this job.

I hammered a screwdriver into the shock body to keep them from spinning.

Took me 2 hours on Thursday evening.
 
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