Shocks for a lifted 62

[Tofudebeest]

I have a set of Terrain Tamer/HABU lift springs (either 2 1/2 or 3", hard to tell), on my 10/87 FJ62. When I installed them, I saw that my shocks were toast.

Dynosoar was so generous to ship me a pair of what he thought were barely used ProComp shocks (front). They were cream colored with light blue boots. I painted 'em and threw 'em on there and am quite pleased. I have not tested the articulation, but do not expect that they will be too short (and rock crawling with be a rare event in this vehicle).

So, I started looking for a pair of appropriate shocks for the rear. I figured that I might as well get a matching pair, but my local ProComp retailer was confused. All he could tell me was that ProComp #325500 was what the computer showed him for my truck, but with a 0" lift (which extended are 24"). So I pulled the part number off the units I got from Dynosoar and they turn out to be Dick Cepek shocks.

They say:
Made in U.S.A.
17053 B132 107
DCS77137

I can't find any specs on that unit and have not left a voicemail or email at Cepek (yet).

So, my questions are:

1) Anyone have any experience with these?
2) Anyone have a suggestion for a make/model for an appropriate pair of rear shocks for this application?
3) Anyone know if the one I got from Dynosoar are appropriate for my set up?
4) Anyone know if Cepeks are any good compared to others? (And do they still make shocks even? Their website shows only tires and wheels, and what I can find seems to be on clearance--as in discontinued.)

Help would be appreciated, my ass is rather bouncey.

 

[lehiguy]

A couple of generalities when it comes to Cruisers and shocks; #1. Use the dimensions that you obtained by measuring as the ultimate rule and do not believe any literature that tells you what works; it's all wrong. #2. See rule number 1.

I'm sure that ProComp makes more than one flavor of shock, but the ones I have tried have been on the harsh side. To illustrate, a friend of mine who works at a Dodge dealership puts them on the big Dodges and for these 7500 pound monsters, the dampening rates are pretty good. On my minitruck they would break your teeth. On my Cruiser, it's wasn't as bad, but it wasn't good either. I have liked the Skyjacker Softride Nitros very much, but I hated the Hydros. Like the ProComps, I found them to be too harsh. Bilsteins are very good quality shocks, but are expensive and due to their design, often have a rather long compressed length given the amount of travel they render making it hard, in some cases, to make them work.

 

[alpendubber]

Can somebody elaborate on Rule #1?

I measured for mine a few years ago after lifting my 60. The front came out great but the rears came out way too long. Fully compressed they were still too long to bolt up. I've been driving with super short ones, not being able to use full articulation. Doh!

 

[Dynosoar]

Hey Tofu,

The Pro Comps and Cepek shocks all come out of one factory (Monroe). The just stamp different numbers on them. I know they came in Pro-Comp boxes. They are just right if you are lifted 3" they were on mine and that is about the same lift that I have. I can look at my rears and give you the number off of those if you want.

Dynosoar

 

[Downey]

First, the right way to determine what shock length you need is to lift the frame until the tires are off the ground, hanging a full extention (with shocks removed). Measure length from top pin to bottom pin, then use a shock that has a 1" longer extended length (i.e. shock must be compressed 1" to be installed at full droop). Then if shock body (oil can) is too tall at full compression, install bigger/taller/harder bump-stops to protect the shocks.
Second, don't let anyone talk you into the same stiff piece of crapola shock on the rear that you put on the front. The front-end takes 9 times more pounding than the rear, consequently the rear shocks must be ultra soft to work good in highway AND off road terrain. I'd be looking for something like Doetsch-tech MV-12's or Bilstein 5100 series for the rear.

 

[lehiguy]

First, the right way to determine what shock length you need is to lift the frame until the tires are off the ground, hanging a full extention (with shocks removed). Measure length from top pin to bottom pin, then use a shock that has a 1" longer extended length (i.e. shock must be compressed 1" to be installed at full droop). Then if shock body (oil can) is too tall at full compression, install bigger/taller/harder bump-stops to protect the shocks.
Second, don't let anyone talk you into the same stiff piece of ****ola shock on the rear that you put on the front. The front-end takes 9 times more pounding than the rear, consequently the rear shocks must be ultra soft to work good in highway AND off road terrain. I'd be looking for something like Doetsch-tech MV-12's or Bilstein 5100 series for the rear.

Two excellent shock choices that I have also tried. Dito, dito, dito.

 

[Tofudebeest]

First, the right way to determine what shock length you need is to lift the frame until the tires are off the ground, hanging a full extention (with shocks removed). Measure length from top pin to bottom pin, then use a shock that has a 1" longer extended length (i.e. shock must be compressed 1" to be installed at full droop). Then if shock body (oil can) is too tall at full compression, install bigger/taller/harder bump-stops to protect the shocks.
Second, don't let anyone talk you into the same stiff piece of crapola shock on the rear that you put on the front. The front-end takes 9 times more pounding than the rear, consequently the rear shocks must be ultra soft to work good in highway AND off road terrain. I'd be looking for something like Doetsch-tech MV-12's or Bilstein 5100 series for the rear.

FWIW, I like the "stiff piece of crapola shock" I have on the front. Not a harsh ride at all (thought bouncey in the rear (of course). Remember, I have a diesel, which is about 120 lbs. heavier than the 2F/3FE.

 

[lehiguy]

Just to complicate this even more, When you buy shocks by the dimensions, it will still be necessary to measure the new shocks before you take ownership. I have also seen, and it was Doetsch-Techs as I recall, that the published "dimensions" were not exactly accurate, although I did like that shock quite a lot. The tape measure is your friend, the reference material should be regarded in the same manner as Cold War era communist propaganda. And just because you have a deeper spring arch, why give up the extra travel by dropping the bump stop? If you get the right shock, you will have all the drop the spring and shackle combination can handel, and upward travel all the way to the bump stop. I would modify the shock mounts before I would let shocks dictate supension travel, up or down.

 

[SHERMAN FJ62]

Sky Jacker or Rancho if you go any decent 4x4 shop they could tell you the specs that you need. If you already had the correct length shocks they can take measurements off of those and help you get a set of correct shocks

 

[Tofudebeest]

This is my plan. There's a one-stop shop in my area that can give me a customized prescription for this application, and will have whatever I need in stock for sure. But, I wanted to go in informed...is all...even though the purchase is likely to be under $75.