Builds Shipwreck (9 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I want the studs to match in size and pitch (front and rear)... which means doing some work


after drilling with a 39/64 drill bit




and now the wheels actually are on solid enough to roll it around the shop


the rotors I'd gotten where the wrong ones, apparently 80 has a larger hub size than 77.... but, the seal, not an 80 - so I'll take that tomorrow to have matched up
 
So more Jeep parts
Wagoneer steering arm. Bonus, beside being shorter, is it's bored out for the Ford/GM tie rod end


and other bonus


it aims away from the frame - which solves an interference issue... of course, with the good comes the bad, it also makes my cross shaft longer... but given all of this is pretty flat, hopefully any bump steer issue will be minimal.

and just for clarity sake - I may not use the high steer... I like getting that shaft up, but I'm not certain it'll be enough that I'll really care... if that's the case, I'll use a Y front cross shaft and then any bump steer issue would be completely eliminated.
 
didn't get much accomplished today - the steering tie rod end I need won't be here until Wednesday... but I started scoping out where everything is going to land
a really cool bit I like on the FJ40s is the under-seat box. I'm going to make a new one (the old one didn't come with the purchase price) that locks for... uhhh.... well... things to throw lead, like a slingshot only cooler.


and I'd really consider restoring the original interior; but really, brown? ugh

I also want head rests and the ability to recline...
so far, it's going to be these - mostly because I have them. Though if something else were to drop into my lap (especially a heated, bucket seat), I'd change.


I worked on my CR500af... and entertained parents... so not much accomplished. If I can't sleep, though, I'm going to weld the rear corner - I finally finished hooking up my torch cooler and it works quite well..
 
body work


rust converter



patch welded and ground

I should have cut more out of the passenger side..
everdur with mig.... siliconing with mig :)

actually, it's a good way of not putting too much heat into the weld and making the grinding down of the weld easier

best part - none of this is seen ever again, I'm putting corner guards on...

time to figure out the seating in the front

problem is the steering column is now too low

fortunately, I can move it up, just have to reshape the hole

All this to get steering...
 
I love reworking... so the problem is I want the most turning radius possible

isn't the most
but first I got a TRE in so I could at least start the mocking of the steering...

but there's a slight problem, the cross bar hits the fancy cover. There are 2 fixes for the cover, and one other fix... two fixes would be to cut the center stripe off and weld in a new one at a lower altitude, or simply cut out the offending section and weld in a pipe or something... which is something they'd do on Pirate, as long as the weld are pretty; they'd be golden.... so I dunno.. or use the high-steer... the new TRE solves one of the problems of the high steer - so I still dunno.. I can't same I'm enthralled with the ice-breaking bow of that dana 44 cover.

back to steering.... the bolt is adjusted at whatever the "factory" was for a Ford HP 44, the fix I did halved the distance.... as I'm getting a different offset wheel anyway (so I can run poverty caps), I may just cure the rest with a 1" offset... but that's awhile down the road - perhaps something cleverer will arise before then

to do this require cutting.... why didn't I simply tack these? ugh


and welded back in place
 
Dude, you do realize that you aren't on Pirate, right? You don't need to bash another forum on this forum just because you don't like it. Half of the people on here are also on Pirate and the other half don't care... I, for one, am getting sick of hearing it and I'm sure others are too. You don't like Pirate... Got it. Can we just get back to the build?

I'm not trying to be a dick, it is just taking away from a very interesting build. :meh:
 
Dude, you do realize that you aren't on Pirate, right? You don't need to bash another forum on this forum just because you don't like it. Half of the people on here are also on Pirate and the other half don't care... I, for one, am getting sick of hearing it and I'm sure others are too. You don't like Pirate... Got it. Can we just get back to the build?

I'm not trying to be a dick, it is just taking away from a very interesting build. :meh:


I get what you're saying, but the answer is no, I won't leave Pirate alone because the experience I had there can utterly destroy a project. By posting an occasional dig at that site, in a manner of speaking, I'm encouraging people to not let the negative people ruin their experience. Building cars, 4x4s... really, hobbies in general is a huge amount of fun. Even when it doesn't work. I've tried at least 3 times to move on with the build on Pirate, but they chose not to. My digs at them are, in a sense, to gain back the fun I get from building something that pushes the envelope. As they say, the best revenge is to do well, followed closely by blaming them for all that's wrong in the world.

Whether it's Pirate or any other website, the whole point of blogging this build is to detail the good, the bad, and the ugly. When a group dishes it out, and they need to grow thicker skin. I doubt you'd even deny that a great deal of the animosity there was completely uncalled-for... just one example, where I get called arrogant for answering a question about the welds; and rather than apologize for being wrong, they just start in on something else (and my favorite, asking everyone else if they'd gotten their initial post wrong).

Honestly, that's the first I've mentioned them in awhile and they aren't a normal part of my blog. So really, I don't get the criticism, nor do I remember you telling the trolls to back off - rather you come here and post this.

... and if you can't handle it, no one is forcing you to watch this. I appreciate your input and encouragement, but by the same token - it's your choice to stay or go. Fact is, no one is forcing MUD to host this blog, I appreciate that they continue to host it despite a rocky start. However, this is their sandbox, if what I say or do bothers them - they should delete the entire thread. Projects have challenges, all of them have challenges. In my experience, most of the time the biggest challenge is the jerk(s) who's screaming to anyone who will listen how dumb the project is and how they should be listened to. My favorite part about them is this, when they flip to the personal attacks because it means they no longer think the build is dumb, but they're such children that they can't say "hmmm, I was wrong about him and this so now I'll grow up and be a supporter."

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, don't let the turkeys bring you down. So I thank you for your input, but I politely decline to modify my behavior or occasional post to save their feelings. Even if those turkeys are on Pirate. Too bad, really, they have so much knowledge that they could be helpful.
 
Last edited:
I've actually enjoyed this build. Its given me plenty of thought for what I'm going to try and build. As for the pirate digs I don't really mind them. I use both pirate and mud and find them to be different sites with different purposes. Now. Back to the build.
 
I get what you're saying, but the answer is no, I won't leave Pirate alone because the experience I had there can utterly destroy a project. By posting an occasional dig at that site, in a manner of speaking, I'm encouraging people to not let the negative people ruin their experience. Building cars, 4x4s... really, hobbies in general is a huge amount of fun. Even when it doesn't work. I've tried at least 3 times to move on with the build on Pirate, but they chose not to. My digs at them are, in a sense, to gain back the fun I get from building something that pushes the envelope. As they say, the best revenge is to do well, followed closely by blaming them for all that's wrong in the world.

Whether it's Pirate or any other website, the whole point of blogging this build is to detail the good, the bad, and the ugly. When a group dishes it out, and they need to grow thicker skin. I doubt you'd even deny that a great deal of the animosity there was completely uncalled-for... just one example, where I get called arrogant for answering a question about the welds; and rather than apologize for being wrong, they just start in on something else (and my favorite, asking everyone else if they'd gotten their initial post wrong).

Honestly, that's the first I've mentioned them in awhile and they aren't a normal part of my blog. So really, I don't get the criticism, nor do I remember you telling the trolls to back off - rather you come here and post this.

... and if you can't handle it, no one is forcing you to watch this. I appreciate your input and encouragement, but by the same token - it's your choice to stay or go. Fact is, no one is forcing MUD to host this blog, I appreciate that they continue to host it despite a rocky start. However, this is their sandbox, if what I say or do bothers them - they should delete the entire thread. Projects have challenges, all of them have challenges. In my experience, most of the time the biggest challenge is the jerk(s) who's screaming to anyone who will listen how dumb the project is and how they should be listened to. My favorite part about them is this, when they flip to the personal attacks because it means they no longer think the build is dumb, but they're such children that they can't say "hmmm, I was wrong about him and this so now I'll grow up and be a supporter."

I've said it before, and I'll say it again, don't let the turkeys bring you down. So I thank you for your input, but I politely decline to modify my behavior or occasional post to save their feelings. Even if those turkeys are on Pirate. Too bad, really, they have so much knowledge that they could be helpful.


I think you misunderstood me. I am failing to see how your comments about Pirate have anything to do with your build thread on 'Mud. Continuing to bring them up come across as childish and unnecessary. (At least in my opinion.) It doesn't make one bit of difference what happened on Pirate because you aren't on Pirate. You are on Mud. You have a lot of talent and great ideas, why try to overshadow it with negativity to something that doesn't matter at all on this site?

I realize that it is my choice to read this build. I want to read this build. I am learning a bit from every build thread I follow. I'm not trying to be critical (like I said, not trying to be a dick), and I'm not trolling you ('Mud is my home. Don't believe me, look at my post count.) I'm just letting you know that it is taking away from your really cool build and it is making you come across like a whiny b*tch. Maybe I shouldn't have posted anything, or maybe I shouldn't care, but if I pushed the limit or started beating a dead horse, I would like someone to let me know. Guess I was trying to return the same courtesy. My advise is you should forget about Pirate all together and get on with your life. It's not worth the head drama....
 
commercial break... I got this running again yesterday... it's a 2004 CRF250 frame with a 1991 CR500 motor; I built it last year, rode it over the summer, and just finished some updates it in so I could ride it this year.



my brother was killed in a car accident 7 years ago, the motor was in a pile of stuff in his "estate". The frame came from Florida, the adapter stuff came from an offshoot of Service Honda (neat, neat guys), and the rest of the parts from ebay.. the motor ran fine, but the clutch didn't work right, the reeds were toast, the (just learned) coil was toast (which made it even more of a mother to start), and the carb wasn't big enough for the mods done to the bike (I get my inability to leave well enough alone from my dad - my brother suffered the same affliction) the expansion pipe had lots of cracks and was rusted from the inside out.... so, new carb, new clutch, new expansion pipe, new coil, new muffler.

You know, the CR500af reminded me - nothing happens in a vacuum, there's always a lot more going on that neither side know about on the internet. But I will say this - I don't care if you get me, hate me, like my build, or hate my build - but you want the quick way to ignore list is accuse me of s*** you have no idea about.

break over.... time to find something noise and dust free to do on the '40 tonight...
 
Last edited:
I should have said "too be continued." The column is simply sitting on top of the tab I built; and merely pushed through the firewall... my plan is using the lower mount - cut a tube in half and weld it to the upper and lower toyota brackets. The upper mount, I need to cut the dash away from the column - otherwise that will squeek like a mother effer... once I do that, I thought I had some U-clamps in my bolt box.... but alas, either I used them or their buried enough that it's easier to get a new one tomorrow. Or, I'll modify the toyota bracket, but I don't like it because it's not a positive engagement with the column.
 
How much clearance is there between the back steering shaft joint and the back header tube? How about the header tubes and the steering shaft? Do you think this will be ok from heat or contact? The pics make them look real close, I’m going through a similar situation on my build and would be interested in your thoughts. I was under a 1/4” clearance to the joint and that worried me so I cut it out.
 
I can put my hand, up to my wrist, between the shaft and the headers. With that said, I've literally wrapped steering shafts with the headers and had no trouble at all (on V8 S10s, on my 54 Studebaker and on my old 70 Skylark) - there's nothing to be affected by the heat.

The only things to be concerned about is if you use the stock, gm collapsible shafts - they used injected plastic to keep them from rattling and to keep them in place or if you use a rubber rag joint... even so, those are pretty robust and only really get into trouble if you're running lean and they're really close (as an aside, "normal" exhaust temp is in the 300-500* range, lean can get up to 750... of course, that's NA, not turbo).

And on this one, I'm going to wrap the headers to preserve heat (racer trick) - which is why I built them out of stainless and why I painted them. Once the wrap is on, when I fire it up the ceramic coating will melt and adhere the wrap to the pipes... another one of those tricks :)
 
I've always heard not to use the header wrap on something you want to keep for a while, because it causes the headers to burn up.

Does the stainless stop that from happening?
 
I think that will be plenty of clearance. The pics do make them look a lot closer. The concern wouldn't be heat, it would be the frame flex causing the headers to contact the steering shaft when you are on the trail. Old 40's don't have the most ridged frame ever! LOL
 
Wrapping traps moisture against the metal. If the metal is mild steel, it accelerates rust, if that metal is stainless steel, it's impervious.

with that said, I wrapped the exhaust outlets (which are mild steel) on a diesel truck I turbo'd - and, to the best of my knowledge, it's still doing quite well now 10 years later... I've seen pipes fail under wrap, and all of them were cheap, 18ga, mild steel headers with no paint on them (other than whatever was put on by the manufacturer...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom