Builds Shipwreck (7 Viewers)

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new computer arrived
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I fixed the motor with a bushing I got from somewhere (some Chinese tools come with brushes, makes no sense to me because the batteries never last to the point where you need to replace brushes). Also tightened up the dash.

I still may not be going, though, Buick's problems continue.... and may be terminal.
 
I seem to recall buying a cordless tool that included brushes. I will have to see if I can find them.

Note that if you come I have to leave my house by 6:15.

SuperBuickGuy said:
I fixed the motor with a bushing I got from somewhere (some Chinese tools come with brushes, makes no sense to me because the batteries never last to the point where you need to replace brushes). Also tightened up the dash.

I still may not be going, though, Buick's problems continue.... and may be terminal.
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Thanks - unfortunately, that may not happen... just saying it so you understand how serious, the same foot that blew up this summer either has a bone infection or bone cancer - both of which are not good for large breed dogs, especially, because the typical treatment only postpones the inevitable by 4-6 months.

*sorry for the downer* I'll be back to '40 content soon.
 
time to update the lights.
the fog lights were a mistake - they're not low enough to matter and the light output is disappointing,
the HIDs, I like them because they are not a harsh light however they were supposed to be floods and they're more spots.... I'm in the PNW, we aren't driving 100 mph across a desert so long distance light just isn't something I need.
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So LEDs here we come
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these are both flood patterns and seem to have a good light output - proof will be snow wheeling but it should better better.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
proof will be snow wheeling but it should better better.
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On our old 80 series I had a nice ~33" lightbar on the front with both flood and driving light patterns. It helped a ton in certain situations.

the one place it did NOT help was in the snow. Lights and headlights were perfect and no issues, however driving on the freeway (there were very few cars on the road) was getting harder and harder to see - even with lights, brights, and the light bar on. I assumed it was the heavier snow fall.

Nope, when we got to Bellingham - there was a good 3/4" or so covering the front of the LED light bar. The headlights/high beams produced enough heat to keep the snow off, but the light bar didn't. Snow stacked up and light output quickly diminished. I understand the larger LED's may create more heat so it may be a non issue for you, but something to consider.
 
my headlights aren't LED for that very reason (no heat). I suppose I should explain a bit better - snow wheeling, not snow driving. Snow wheeling - having a flood-type LED light works well because it allows shadowing of dips.

Driving during a snowstorm at night creates its own set of issues - for me, I prefer halogen headlights, they don't get snow build up and because they're a more yellow color, tend to punch through the flakes better. Bright white is by far and away the worst because in snowstorm you create a reflective white wall. Usually in snowstorms, the brighter your lights, the less you can see due to reflect from the flakes.
 
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When ever I tell my wife I am going snow wheeling or just driving while it is snowing out she just doesn't get it. She says "normal people just stay home"... :eek:

I mean like really? Where's the fun in that? :steer:

SuperBuickGuy said:
my headlights aren't LED for that very reason (no heat). I suppose I should explain a bit better - snow wheeling, not snow driving. Snow wheeling - having a flood-type LED light works well because it allows shadowing of dips.

Driving during a snowstorm at night creates its own set of issues - for me, I prefer halogen headlights, they don't get snow build up and because they're a more yellow color, tend to punch through the flakes better. Bright white is by far and away the worst because in snowstorm you create a reflective white wall. Usually in snowstorms, the brighter your lights, the less you can see due to reflect from the flakes.
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MS2 is on the list, but it's a bit down as I'm probably building 2 cars for SEMA next year (no FJ40 so no updates here, sorry - that said, I'll propose it goes too, so perhaps, but it's not on the list yet)....

One of today's first tasks is to follow some advice from the guy who owns Dakota Digital (no, I don't remember his name, sorry). I'm first to admit that I am skeptical about this advice, however, Dakota Digital has forgotten 10x what I've ever known about car electrical so follow along as I learn.

What is this earth shaking advice? This: you must have a ground from the battery to the motor and cannot rely on the frame as the ground 'wire'. DD's argument is that there is carbon in the steel and just enough resistance in the steel so that your dash many not function correctly. Well, my dash doesn't work right (and yes, I know I've never mentioned it probably because I figured it was installer, not Dakota, error)...... Too be continued
 
FJ40's are notorious for electrical ground issues. For that reason when I rewired mine I elected to run a perimeter ground wire. I still used chassis grounds, but every light, device, etc., uses a ground wire that are all tied into a ground buss then to the battery.

SuperBuickGuy said:
MS2 is on the list, but it's a bit down as I'm probably building 2 cars for SEMA next year (no FJ40 so no updates here, sorry - that said, I'll propose it goes too, so perhaps, but it's not on the list yet)....

One of today's first tasks is to follow some advice from the guy who owns Dakota Digital (no, I don't remember his name, sorry). I'm first to admit that I am skeptical about this advice, however, Dakota Digital has forgotten 10x what I've ever known about car electrical so follow along as I learn.

What is this earth shaking advice? This: you must have a ground from the battery to the motor and cannot rely on the frame as the ground 'wire'. DD's argument is that there is carbon in the steel and just enough resistance in the steel so that your dash many not function correctly. Well, my dash doesn't work right (and yes, I know I've never mentioned it probably because I figured it was installer, not Dakota, error)...... Too be continued
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