I just like bringing up your short wheelbase.
Builds Shipwreck (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2,362
but without the "you'll flip over backwards" it lacks the level of deep thought and troll that Pirate brings to the internet. Before I experienced their level of lunacy, I had no idea what a blither was. Now I know, they do highlight the blither in blithering idiot.....
the most fun part of that entire thread was getting a number from them - no one wanted to commit because they knew the instant they did that the rest of the blithers would attack them instead.
and heaven knows, I've been trying to flip it over backwards.... I'm such a failure
Give me the keys, I'll show you how it is done. LOL
- Thread starter
- #2,364
Mr. Jits says you're a rookie
- Thread starter
- #2,365
In other news, Amazon thinks I should have a Dana 60 front as well and sent me hubs for them.... smh
- Thread starter
- #2,366
This continues to be the best response to the trolls - and it's funny, someone was telling me you can't wheel in the snow with swampers. This is the picture I responded with....
I've also heard that you can't snow wheel with stickies... I'm planning on testing that out this winter. LOL!
jstncse
Crawling over something
You just need bigger rocks. Mine is about 115" wheelbase and I'm pretty sure I can flip it over backwards
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- Thread starter
- #2,369
my brother once told me the most annoying thing about me was that if he ever said it couldn't be done, I'd do it. We won't talk about the time I aired up at the end of a run then had to get pulled back onto the road because I didn't have enough traction to get off the shoulder ... that said, minor problems like that are a long, long ways away from "can't"
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- Thread starter
- #2,370
just move the instant center to somewhere in front of your radiator and flipping comes naturally. That was the context of the comment - I'm pretty sure the person talking wouldn't know IC from toilet paper.... so they were talking with what should have been plugged with toilet paper. It is interesting, though, how few people in the 4x4 world realize that you can get the same traction benefits with a properly set up 4 link as you can with a much longer wheelbase.
- Thread starter
- #2,371
More parts
that don't work
these don't work either
close, though
that way doesn't work either
a bit of ramp testing (aka, rock wall testing)
and need to adjust cross arm too so I can turn left when stuffed
it will kind of clear, but the deal is I need to use the smaller TREs (the ones that cross in front of the axle and don't have 30 degree range of motion
more testing
full stuff, full turn, no rubbing
I did have to make a shim
I'll have the correct TREs tomorrow, but outside of that, it's done
I drove it, and while it does desparately need an alignment that corrects the toe, it drives pretty nice (which is surprising given there is a difference in angle between the cross shaft and panhard
that don't work
these don't work either
close, though
that way doesn't work either
a bit of ramp testing (aka, rock wall testing)
and need to adjust cross arm too so I can turn left when stuffed
it will kind of clear, but the deal is I need to use the smaller TREs (the ones that cross in front of the axle and don't have 30 degree range of motion
more testing
full stuff, full turn, no rubbing
I did have to make a shim
I'll have the correct TREs tomorrow, but outside of that, it's done
I drove it, and while it does desparately need an alignment that corrects the toe, it drives pretty nice (which is surprising given there is a difference in angle between the cross shaft and panhard
- Thread starter
- #2,372
derail alert. I love putting stuff like this in a thread because it so doesn't fit. Beagle has nothing on me. So I have a honey do list and I also have my going-camping-in-3-week list... so what do I do today? not one damn thing on any list
I got a cheap, and boy do I mean cheap (think scrap steel cheap), Italian lathe. Made in 1960, it's 14x36 with a taper attachment
this has to be the easiest unload I've ever done
it's 3 phase and I'll use a VFD to convert single to 3 phase. I'm fortunate in that I have a friend who plays with electrons....
In other FJ40 news
hubs are on
I got a cheap, and boy do I mean cheap (think scrap steel cheap), Italian lathe. Made in 1960, it's 14x36 with a taper attachment
this has to be the easiest unload I've ever done
it's 3 phase and I'll use a VFD to convert single to 3 phase. I'm fortunate in that I have a friend who plays with electrons....
In other FJ40 news
hubs are on
It does me some real good to see you get a machine lathe. I wish I had the place for one, and the money, to be able to do that. I expect that you already know how to operate it. I know nothing about using one, but I sure would enjoy being in your shoes and learning how to use it. It's been over 50 years since I played with one in high school.
Don
Don
- Thread starter
- #2,374
time to make a new cross arm
now we're getting there
now in black
these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place
chop chop
new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well
for those curious. the tie rod ends are
ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE
the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.
Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will
now we're getting there
now in black
these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place
chop chop
new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well
for those curious. the tie rod ends are
ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE
the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.
Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will
- Thread starter
- #2,375
time to make a new cross arm
now we're getting there
now in black
these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place
chop chop
new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well
for those curious. the tie rod ends are
ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE
the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.
Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will
now we're getting there
now in black
these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place
chop chop
new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well
for those curious. the tie rod ends are
ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE
the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.
Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will
- Thread starter
- #2,376
postscript. I eyeballed the alignment before I drove it.... yeah, need to get my eyeballs checked, it had about 1/4" toe-out.... drives far better now.
Nope, Chad's willing to attempt a lot of stuff in pretty precarious situations when he's wheeling. I don't care for dents or looking at the world upside down.
I'm still pretty certain that if you get yourself into the rocks, your truck will be belly up.
- Thread starter
- #2,378
Nope, Chad's willing to attempt a lot of stuff in pretty precarious situations when he's wheeling. I don't care for dents or looking at the world upside down.
I'm still pretty certain that if you get yourself into the rocks, your truck will be belly up.
It kills me not to have pictures of my days when I worked at Squaw Valley - early 90s - (maybe someday the mover that stole them will post them online? dang, good thing I'm all over that) Ski in the winter, bar tend and wheel in the summer at such unknown places like the Rubicon, Fordyce, and Johnson Valley.... of course, then I had a "built" 59 FJ40.... built meaning 4" springs, shackles, and some HUGE 33" bias plies.
knocking on wood, though, I've yet to put one on top.
- Thread starter
- #2,379
hooks in place
- Thread starter
- #2,380
testing the new setup
close is perfect
very close but it's enough
close is perfect
very close but it's enough
