Builds Shipwreck (5 Viewers)

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well, I'm hoping my 38.5 experience matches yours. I think that a set weight may be a problem. Years ago, I worked as a manager at an auto rental company and the best way to get in trouble was to allow the shop to balance the tires - rarely did we have a problem. I wonder if your tires didn't need that amount of weight.

as an aside, no BB or airsoft package tells you the weight of the package - which I actually thought was a requirement, so learned something there....
 
You may be on to something with the amount of weight. I'm going to have the 35's balanced with conventional weight and note the amount needed for each tire, then if I loose the weight I will try that many ounces of weight in the tire.
 
I used 10oz in my 36's. They seem well balanced. It might be nice to have a tire shop spin one up and see what the balancer computer says.
 
I'd Tap that!
 
IMHO going with a stock color (or a close variant) makes more of a statement than a custom color. We run the Rubicon a few times each summer and I've seen a lot of FJ40's in a lot of colors, somehow the ones with bright paint just scream "HEY LOOK AT ME!!! I"VE GOT A LAND CRUISER!!!"
Again, just my opinion but just having an FJ40 is all you need to make a statement.

The one color that is not even close to a stock color that I really like is grey, like the Audi TT grey. It just goes with the retro quasi military style of the 40 so well.

yeah, way-back-post... but I think I'm going to follow this advice for my Suburban color.... yeah, I'm not much around anymore - I'm onto other non-Toyota projects include one very boring one


olive branch... lol :flipoff2: some I forgive, others simply best run if they ever see me.
 
I'd like to see a work log on grafting that scoop to that fiberglass hood(I think those were still fiber glass. I could be wrong though...).
 
I've a work log of grafting this one on - but that, sadly, is a secret of the previous owner.
original hood after I painted it


new scoop


grafted on


it took a bit of work - but it's in no way related to hardcore toyotas... so you'll have to find the blog on it elsewhere... though it kind of sort-of starts here 1975 Plastic fantastic aka Corvette - The BangShift.com Forums
 
Actually the Corvette body is going on the Suburban frame. SBC told me that himself. Or was it the other way around? I wasn't paying attention, I was too busy laughing at a Toyota pickup with three feet high U shaped leaf springs.

IMG_1513_zpsbydygsgd.jpg
 
Now you're making me want to see the whole thing...

I wasn't paying attention, I was too busy laughing at a Toyota pickup with three feet high U shaped leaf springs.

IMG_1513_zpsbydygsgd.jpg
 
I don't know how useful that truck would be, but in truth it was nice fabrication work. Those springs alone were a work of art. It looked like it could run under 6' of water with out getting your feet wet except the axle vents went only 4' up. I would be afraid of tipping over while parallel parking it. :)
Now you're making me want to see the whole thing...
 
so last night I took the '40 to an overland deal and had issues with it not wanting to restart.... so I removed one battery and at least one issue (a bit of corrosion on the disconnects)


wasn't the problem - this was - the reset button. Apparently it wasn't fully engaged...


it was a weird issue - the display on the dash showed that it was charging, but testing at the jump station showed it wasn't...
 
ever since I put the beadlocks on my '40, it's been a wandering beast. Part of the issue is it doesn't track the same in corners based upon steering input. Without going into the why, did the panhard bar the traditional way - where it parallels the steering arm. At the time of the build, I didn't think I had enough clearance to run the cross steer arm to a high-steer mount. Because of that both the steering cross shaft and the panhard bar are at quite an angle to the axle. This is the fix of that. A panhard bar should be parallel with the axle - unless there's a compelling reason not to. If it isn't, some call it bump steer (it's not) but you get steering that doesn't actually turn at the same angle when turning. It's especially annoying at highway speeds. Basically, the front end moves and either understeers or oversteers depending on the lean of the truck. Of course, with all good things, there's a but. putting the panhard parallel to the axle, especially on lifted trucks can actually decrease the amount of steering angle you get when the rig is crossed up. On top of that, the steering wheel moves while the tires go straight. Again, they call it bump steer, but it's actually suspension induced steering angle. The tires track straight but the steering wheel moves. In bump steer, the tires start oscillating and that is transmitted to the steering wheel. Given this things desire to follow ruts, I'm going to risk some steering angle to get it to drive 80 mph without fear.

I bought a ruffstuff bracket that goes to the outside of the frame. when this is done, those tabs will attach to the inside


I like the scallops - will make my '40 all high-class


Here is where it will hang, only 180 degrees from its current space....


In random other news, I got a spare this weekend


anyway, this is a coming attraction - I'm continuing on with my Wanderer Suburban build.... I was expecting hubs today but this showed up instead, so the update happened.... also going to figure out why the KBS failed in the battery box.... back to letting this thread die :)
 

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