She's dead Jim!

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White Sheep said:
I did have an AFR. It usually stayed in the green. I was also using a smaller pulley when I added the intercooler. Looking back, I should of put on the ceramic head gasket, but I didn't know any better back then and they are expensive.
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When you let me drive your truck at a monthly meeting I remember saying I was surprised how lean it was during pulls. I'm not up on gas engine super/turbocharging but it seemed super lean to me.

Idk if it was lean enough to pop, but lean does cause failures.
 
Hokie LX said:
Cometic makes really nice and stout gaskets if you plan to replace yours. Well worth the $. I just put one on my fully forged engine for my track car.
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I have a cometic in moonshine right now. It works good.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
When you let me drive your truck at a monthly meeting I remember saying I was surprised how lean it was during pulls. I'm not up on gas engine super/turbocharging but it seemed super lean to me.

Idk if it was lean enough to pop, but lean does cause failures.
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The timing was off then.
 
Question, I know that reusing head bolts is typically frowned upon but mine are Toyota OEM and only have 16K miles on them. Should I reuse or replace? I'm leaning towards replacing.

BTW, my purchase list so far:
Headgasket
Head bolts.

Everything else should be good.
 
lumbee1 said:
Question, I know that reusing head bolts is typically frowned upon but mine are Toyota OEM and only have 16K miles on them. Should I reuse or replace? I'm leaning towards replacing.

BTW, my purchase list so far:
Headgasket
Head bolts.

Everything else should be good.
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EDIT: This only applies to standard headbolts, not TTY (torque to yield) style head bolts. 1FZs and my old cummins engines do not have TTY head bolts, but my silly ford 6.0 does, lol.

In technical terms, the head bolts are good to reuse as long as they have not stretched too far. Cummins supplies a bolt stretch gauge (printed on cardstock) so that you can measure the length of the head bolts to make sure they're still serviceable. I'm not sure if toyota has one of those gauges, but that's the technical answer.

That being said, for the amount of labor involved to get to them on a 1FZ, I'd just replace the head bolts. Cheap insurance and peace of mind.
 
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Hokie LX said:
If it’s boosted, why not convert to arp studs. Can reuse them over and over again without concern and are also stronger.
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I've ordered the upgraded gasket and ARP Supra studs :)

Approximately $270 for both.
 
lumbee1 said:
I've ordered the upgraded gasket and ARP Supra studs :)

Approximately $270 for both.
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I was about to reply "cheap insurance" but then I remembered how much that felt like for those parts 5 years ago, much less 10.
 
Sorry to hear this. They rebuilt 4 1FZ engines for me over the last 10 years. No issues at all. About 10 heads too. No issues. But I am all stock too though. Along with about 30 other engines over the last 30 years.

Granted their engine builder just passed away about 2 weeks ago now.
 
krzyabncanuck said:
Sorry to hear this. They rebuilt 4 1FZ engines for me over the last 10 years. No issues at all. About 10 heads too. No issues. But I am all stock too though. Along with about 30 other engines over the last 30 years.

Granted their engine builder just passed away about 2 weeks ago now.
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Ricky passed away?
 
Seems like the common trend of these going is fuel management and EGTs, aka using the stock ECU. and if my memory is serving correctly you're not running an EGT probe, Correct me if im wrong. Yes the stock ecu is there and it will work but it seems as the longevity and reliability is not. When the boost kicks in it above half throttle is it just going to go open loop and dump fuel and not reach an ideal AFR number. People have gotten away with the stock ecu especially with the 95'+ models with it being OBDll but i don't necessarily think the technology is there in that system to support boost reliably. I've driven a few 80s with a SC setup and no aftermarket fuel management support and they all seem to run lean or super rich. with that it is going to play a roll on how your EGTs are going to be, and i can only imagine how hot those numbers are getting and going to cause damage eventually, might not be instantaneously but its going to play a roll in the long run like i think happened here. For how much money is invested in a rebuild and to get SC setup why not buy sensors and gauges to figure out how the engine is liking it and seeing how happy the AFRs are and get an EGT probe and gauge to see how hot your EGTs are getting. With @fourtrax setup that he had it took awhile of tuning to get the AFRs perfect, and its a night and day difference between the ones I've driven and ours, It would actually throw me back in the seat when the boost would kick in unlike the others that I've driven. One of the biggest battles we ran into was EGT temperatures, without ideal AFR numbers the EGT temperatures would skyrocket past 1400 if we let it and with numbers that high damage stuff is going to get ruined. and i personally think that is what has happened with y'alls 80s and why its killing the HG. i would invest in the sensors and gauges at the very least to see how it is running and if needed invest in a enricher/split second setup to be able to control the fuel.
 
4LowandSlow said:
Seems like the common trend of these going is fuel management and EGTs, aka using the stock ECU. and if my memory is serving correctly you're not running an EGT probe, Correct me if im wrong. Yes the stock ecu is there and it will work but it seems as the longevity and reliability is not. When the boost kicks in it above half throttle is it just going to go open loop and dump fuel and not reach an ideal AFR number. People have gotten away with the stock ecu especially with the 95'+ models with it being OBDll but i don't necessarily think the technology is there in that system to support boost reliably. I've driven a few 80s with a SC setup and no aftermarket fuel management support and they all seem to run lean or super rich. with that it is going to play a roll on how your EGTs are going to be, and i can only imagine how hot those numbers are getting and going to cause damage eventually, might not be instantaneously but its going to play a roll in the long run like i think happened here. For how much money is invested in a rebuild and to get SC setup why not buy sensors and gauges to figure out how the engine is liking it and seeing how happy the AFRs are and get an EGT probe and gauge to see how hot your EGTs are getting. With @fourtrax setup that he had it took awhile of tuning to get the AFRs perfect, and its a night and day difference between the ones I've driven and ours, It would actually throw me back in the seat when the boost would kick in unlike the others that I've driven. One of the biggest battles we ran into was EGT temperatures, without ideal AFR numbers the EGT temperatures would skyrocket past 1400 if we let it and with numbers that high damage stuff is going to get ruined. and i personally think that is what has happened with y'alls 80s and why its killing the HG. i would invest in the sensors and gauges at the very least to see how it is running and if needed invest in a enricher/split second setup to be able to control the fuel.
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Well said. Can't confirm without data, but this is my thinking as well. Highly doubt it's a "bad batch" of HGs.
 
If you suspect you hydrolocked this, pull the crank and inspect/ crack test.

My original 1fz-fe hydrolocked when the head gasket let go, I changed the head gasket and didn't touch the bottom end.
I didn't know the crank had cracked.
I got about 5-10k km out of it before it chewed out the main bearings.
 
I've seen some bad cranks in a 1fz but I've never seen one crack. That's a new one. I try and tell everyone if you suspect the vehicle has a blown head gasket or is starting to blow don't start it or on that first start after sitting for a few hours bump the starter once or twice.

I will say this. We deal with at least a dozen headgasket failures every year. We are on no 5 or 6 currently. I've never used the LCE headgasket but wouldn't want to due to it copying the original failure prone OEM version design with the 2 triangle coolant passages behind #6. That is where 90% of failures for us come from. Ironically most head gaskets blow around the transition from winter to spring. We had 3 in 2 weeks this year.

Toyota had 2 revisions of the original headgasket and it looks like LCE copied the second one which is good but not as good as the current OEM HG. I've put some pictures of some headgaskets below. Left to right.
1. Original OEM, which has it's triangle blown out into #6 cylinder
2. An aftermarket gasket I bought a few years back because I wanted to see what an ebay 150 special with head bolts would look like, looks similar to the LCE version. Part of the white sealant on it is clear and not visible. But you can find ones online like it for 50$
3. A crappy aftermarket headgasket that the head was not resurfaced and was most likey warped to hell.
4. OEM version 3. Notice they put the layer of metal on the head side not the block side as well that layer around the back of #6 is one piece and no more triangle windows. As well there is extra material around the cylinder bores
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290866 miles or 15,516 miles since my full rebuild.

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The head is back on and ARB studs installed in a 4 steps to a max torque of 80ft/lbs. The consensus on MUD was to follow ARP's instructions to achieve maximum clamping strength of their studs rather than follow the FSM directions for OEM headbolts. I have not measured my headbolts but I did find the pair of bolts between cylinders 5 and 6 were not torqued to spec like the rest. It could be that they were missed however the torqueing sequence would have made it difficult to miss them.

In addition, I've cut my lower intake manifold so that I don't have to remove the full wire harness next time I need to replace the head gasket.
 
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