Shaped Bumper for purpose

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I don't know how to do multi quotes.

I used a local metal fab shop. They charge out for little DIY guys like me if you ask nicely. They have the shear and huge 2000 ton brake or whatever it is! It is fairly easy for them to do it. I've added most of the measurements as I go here, the first pic with the diagram has accurate bolt hole pattern. I am being tempted to offer the brackets to people for reasonable price, and maybe even a kit for someone to complete. I'd rather finish this one first before I get ahead of myself.

LOL....so when you flying back down here.hint ,hint...LOL
 
Cruiser, here's the one I built for mine with swing outs, quarter armor and integrated hitch. Looking great keep up the good work. I can't wait to get the plasma table and really start playing with designs.

J

DSCN3049.webp
 
Sweet work man! This looks sweet! Im in the process of mounting my hitch higher, quater pannel chop and rear bar. It wont look any where near as beautiful as this bar.
So glad i have subscribed to this post.
 
Cruiser, here's the one I built for mine with swing outs, quarter armor and integrated hitch. Looking great keep up the good work. I can't wait to get the plasma table and really start playing with designs.

J

That really looks fantastic! I'd appreciate an underside pic of how you integrated and attached the quarter armor. I've got mine worked out, but not finished yet, and am always open to ideas. Whose pivot spindle did you use for the swing out?
 
That really looks fantastic! I'd appreciate an underside pic of how you integrated and attached the quarter armor. I've got mine worked out, but not finished yet, and am always open to ideas. Whose pivot spindle did you use for the swing out?

Thanks cruiserpilot

IPOR.... I've used the bearing style spindles... prefer the solid sleeved style better.

I'll try and get a pic to you. All I did was run a length of 1/4" x 2" strap from my bumper frame mount to the quarter armor on an angle to keep it steady and secure from boulders etc..

J
 
Thanks cruiserpilot

IPOR.... I've used the bearing style spindles... prefer the solid sleeved style better.

I'll try and get a pic to you. All I did was run a length of 1/4" x 2" strap from my bumper frame mount to the quarter armor on an angle to keep it steady and secure from boulders etc..

J

Why the sleeved? Just for curiosity. I would've thought the bearings would've been more durable in the long term.

I saw your couple of posts about your bumpers in your build thread. Any other info on them?
 
I used a bronze sleeved bushing on my FJ40 rear tire carrier. It worked well. Seems like most everyone is using bearing spindles. The fellow that makes the 4+ bumpers uses a sleeve as well. Thanks, and look forward to the pic.
 
Cruiser, here's the one I built for mine with swing outs, quarter armor and integrated hitch. Looking great keep up the good work. I can't wait to get the plasma table and really start playing with designs.

J

Wow... Looks a lot like the one Tom built for my cruiser! Cool bumper! I like the step sides on the slider and the receiver on the ladder is a great Idea too!!

072.webp
 
Wow... Looks a lot like the one Tom built for my cruiser! Cool bumper! I like the step sides on the slider and the receiver on the ladder is a great Idea too!!

That quarter armor looks bolted on? I don't think I'll have anything go right to the wheel opening. Looks great though. I'm liking all these different approaches to rear bumpers.
 
So I'm fitting the newly cut brackets, the bumper was built so the brackets basically pressure fit. The one thing I was careful about was making sure that the bolt holes that mount the brackets were level with the top of the bumper.

P1020896.webp

P1020897.webp

P1020901.webp

The pcs of square tube and the measuring stick were to keep the brackets square. I needed to keep the inner frame distance at 40 1/4", and I had to make sure the brackets were true to every angle.

P1020896.webp


P1020897.webp


P1020901.webp
 
Now where the tube cross braces were shown in the last photo is where I would insert a cross tube for a receiver hitch, if I was going that way. This is one thing that would be easy to add later. A cross tube is critical to the build as well, because when the factory brace is removed the frame does move inward. I made an extra effort to reestablish the proper measurement and am using the trailer hitch as a cross brace. I was going to tack a couple of welds from the frame to the hitch, but figured that was overkill. In the future if I think it's moved/moving, I'll look at it then.
 
I didn't take any pics of the angle for the bumper ends. I measured 13 1/4 inches from the frame and cut them straight up the body lines. The first pic is dark, but I wanted to have an angle that would allow me to attach the rear quarter armor in along the outside without making any changes.

P1020903.webp

P1020905.webp

P1020903.webp


P1020905.webp
 
So I made the end caps up and welded them on.

P1020906.webp

P1020907.webp

P1020911.webp

So the basic bumper is finished and I'm really happy with the way it's turned out. Really smooth, and the deck is a good foot step for getting to the roof rack.

The holes in the brackets are going to be cut out to 1 3/8" with the plasma cutter, I'll weld DOM with a 7/8" ID for shackles.

P1020906.webp


P1020907.webp


P1020911.webp
 
Why the sleeved? Just for curiosity. I would've thought the bearings would've been more durable in the long term.

You'll never have a total failure with bushing like you'll have with a bearing. Bushings may require an occasional degreasing, cleaning and lubing but they will handle much greater offset loads than opposing taper bearings and far outlast them. Opposed tapers were not designed to support offset loads rather to carry radial loads centered directly between the two. The key to building a bushing/shaft hinge is to use a ground and polished shaft such as used in hydraulic cylinders. The industry term is PG&P ( precision ground and polished ). Standard cold or hot roll solid is too imprecise ( out of round ) for a quality fit
 
Good work! :clap:

Damn clean looking welds too. You use MIG for the whole thing?
 
Why the sleeved? Just for curiosity. I would've thought the bearings would've been more durable in the long term.

I saw your couple of posts about your bumpers in your build thread. Any other info on them?

Spook, I've used bearing spindles before and unless your latching system and tightness of components is spot on it creates a stress point. IIRC most 1.75" spindles are the base dimension and slim down for bearings etc... I've had 3 shear/crack in between bearing sets before. This is my experience with bearing styles. This gets to be a heated debate on most other forums. I've used the sleeved style for years without failure yet. That's my 2 cents worth.

I run fairly heavy loads.. 33" to 37" spares (over time) on one side and ladder w/15 gallons of fluids plus weight of swing arms. I've built a 5' swing arm before with everything on it, swing it out and jump on it with my 260# and it just keeps smiling at me :D with the IPOR set-ups.

The solid sleeves also don't have a constant grease drip and build up down the side of your bumper....


Wow... Looks a lot like the one Tom built for my cruiser! Cool bumper! I like the step sides on the slider and the receiver on the ladder is a great Idea too!!

Ha! I saw your thread last night. Said to myself... with the shape of our cruisers... not a lot of ways they won't resemble one another. The receiver in the ladder is for the fuel rack or BBQ pit. :grinpimp:

Why the sleeved? Just for curiosity. I would've thought the bearings would've been more durable in the long term.

You'll never have a total failure with bushing like you'll have with a bearing. Bushings may require an occasional degreasing, cleaning and lubing but they will handle much greater offset loads than opposing taper bearings and far outlast them. Opposed tapers were not designed to support offset loads rather to carry radial loads centered directly between the two. The key to building a bushing/shaft hinge is to use a ground and polished shaft such as used in hydraulic cylinders. The industry term is PG&P ( precision ground and polished ). Standard cold or hot roll solid is too imprecise ( out of round ) for a quality fit

Well put lcwizard!:cheers:

J
 
Back
Top Bottom