- Year
- 1995
- Vehicle Model
- 80 Series
- Location
- San Francisco, California United States
- Mileage
- 207275
My back just isn't relenting on my trial of this project. I did a handful of maintenance items to this and every day I worked on it has just set me back. I'm likely going to lose big on this - but I've had fun 
Bottom line up front:
Asking$10,500 $9,000
I owned this (my first 80) in 2018 and sold it shortly thereafter to get a 200 which then got sold to buy a no-sunroof 100. At which point I got therapy and at least kept the 100 for several years.
I am selling a clean Carfax 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser originally from Hawaii without a sunroof, running boards, or roof rack. It also originally included the third row seats (which I've removed, and can be included if purchased before 10/31/2023). No rear heater either. Grey leather interior. Title is in hand and in my name.
More photos here: TLCP's FZJ80 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdzaFrjSsuAbLKqC8
The bad (as it sits today):
Body
The paint. My god, the paint. The first Utah owner (2017 timeframe) did a horrible DIY paint job in emerald green. That's also starting to fail.
There is a rear passenger side rear quarter panel repair just in front of the taillight. I can barely notice it from the exterior but in side the quarter panel it appears they pushed/extruded some body filler as part of the repair. The inside metal looks fine.
There is a spot on the front of the rear passenger side wheel arch that caught something. Pretty minor but it's there.
And the last body issue is a repaired dent with cracked filler on the main body just above the seam on the passenger upper side of the hatch opening. It hasn't changed since I owned it in 2018.
Windshield has a coupe cracks. They aren't intrusive, but I'll include a new weatherstrip seal for when you replace it.
Had a CEL for P0141 and haven't looked into it yet.
Mechanical
Sometimes the exhaust rattles (might need to tighten the clamp on one of the front shields in front of the cats)
The power steering system was PS fluid in it. Needs to be flushed.
The frame is an 8/10 for rust. Just some minor stuff on welds in the midship. Front and rear frames are clean (9.5/10) I haven't had to bust out the induction bolt heater once
Interior/Electrical
Dash has some cracks
Leather is rough. Driver and passenger seat bottoms have been replaced and the side bolsters are cracked. The Escape gear seat covers are necessary until seats are replaced or a leather kit installed.
Antenna goes up and down about as far as you see in the photos.
Rear hatch door lock actuator needs to be replaced (part is included)
Work I did in 2017:
PHH reroute (done before me)
Repaired cooked wiring from the EGR. Ran new lengths alongside existing harness from the ECU to the trans gear selector switch. I have a used main engine wiring harness to accompany the vehicle.
Distributor o-ring
New floormats and cargo mat
Notable work done by prior owner (2019-2022):
Heater core (State Automotive in SLC, UT)
Power steering heater hoses (and PS fluid...probably State Automotive, too)
Trans fluid looks newish
Work recently performed by me at 207k miles (2023):
Front main
Oil pump cover gasket
AC tensioner pulley
Idler pulley
Belts
Plugs and wires
Thermostat, bypass o-rings, radiator hoses (big and small)
All evap hoses
EGR clean out to fix P0401 and new EGR VSV
Toyota red coolant
Rear hatch and upper hatch weatherstripping
Rear driver and rear passenger door lock actuators
Cleaned and lubed all windows (they all work but some are slow)
Replaced motor mounts (including trans)
5w-30 synthetic oil change and D3 filter
Added CDL switch. 4LO and locker works fast
Removed fender flares and installed no-flare mudflaps
40% (9/32) lift Cooper Discover tires (2017 date) 255/85R16 (skinny 33s)
New hood and hatch struts
New fuel cap
New air filter and intake tube
The good:
It doesn't have a sunroof!
New steering wheel
Interior is complete and clean (I removed all plastic trim and carpet and cleaned it all)
AC works great
Will include anything else in parts/manuals I have for 80s
The brakes work
Needs attention:
Replace power steering fluid with ATF
Finish replacing other fluids just cause their cheap (brake, diffs, transfer case)
If you keep the power seats, driver needs a new gear (the 2017 owner removed one side of the bracket so all functions still work)
Keep hunting for leaks
Paint if you're vain
Inclusions (not mentioned above):
1995 Factory service manual and electrical wiring diagram
CPACruiser crank pulley holding tool
54mm socket
Vapor barriers for the front L and R and rear R doors
Extra gaskets (throttle body, thermostat, EGR, etc)
The original steering wheel
Whatever else is in my 80 series parts bin
Original intake tube (good for someone who's is cracked
Pricing:
Someone is going to get a great project at likely a great price - I will sell this quickly. Open to offers, but I'm not going to entertain anything below $7000 at this point. I'm starting with$10,500. And now $9,000
I, of all people, know that's a lot to ask - I'll make every effort to make it worth your time and money. Offers below that start to cut really bad and I get to pay a lot more stupid tax - so let's not try to go straight to that point.
Bottom line up front:
Asking
I owned this (my first 80) in 2018 and sold it shortly thereafter to get a 200 which then got sold to buy a no-sunroof 100. At which point I got therapy and at least kept the 100 for several years.
I am selling a clean Carfax 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser originally from Hawaii without a sunroof, running boards, or roof rack. It also originally included the third row seats (which I've removed, and can be included if purchased before 10/31/2023). No rear heater either. Grey leather interior. Title is in hand and in my name.
More photos here: TLCP's FZJ80 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/tdzaFrjSsuAbLKqC8
The bad (as it sits today):
Body
The paint. My god, the paint. The first Utah owner (2017 timeframe) did a horrible DIY paint job in emerald green. That's also starting to fail.
There is a rear passenger side rear quarter panel repair just in front of the taillight. I can barely notice it from the exterior but in side the quarter panel it appears they pushed/extruded some body filler as part of the repair. The inside metal looks fine.
There is a spot on the front of the rear passenger side wheel arch that caught something. Pretty minor but it's there.
And the last body issue is a repaired dent with cracked filler on the main body just above the seam on the passenger upper side of the hatch opening. It hasn't changed since I owned it in 2018.
Windshield has a coupe cracks. They aren't intrusive, but I'll include a new weatherstrip seal for when you replace it.
Had a CEL for P0141 and haven't looked into it yet.
Mechanical
Sometimes the exhaust rattles (might need to tighten the clamp on one of the front shields in front of the cats)
The power steering system was PS fluid in it. Needs to be flushed.
The frame is an 8/10 for rust. Just some minor stuff on welds in the midship. Front and rear frames are clean (9.5/10) I haven't had to bust out the induction bolt heater once
Interior/Electrical
Dash has some cracks
Leather is rough. Driver and passenger seat bottoms have been replaced and the side bolsters are cracked. The Escape gear seat covers are necessary until seats are replaced or a leather kit installed.
Antenna goes up and down about as far as you see in the photos.
Rear hatch door lock actuator needs to be replaced (part is included)
Work I did in 2017:
PHH reroute (done before me)
Repaired cooked wiring from the EGR. Ran new lengths alongside existing harness from the ECU to the trans gear selector switch. I have a used main engine wiring harness to accompany the vehicle.
Distributor o-ring
New floormats and cargo mat
Notable work done by prior owner (2019-2022):
Heater core (State Automotive in SLC, UT)
Power steering heater hoses (and PS fluid...probably State Automotive, too)
Trans fluid looks newish
Work recently performed by me at 207k miles (2023):
Front main
Oil pump cover gasket
AC tensioner pulley
Idler pulley
Belts
Plugs and wires
Thermostat, bypass o-rings, radiator hoses (big and small)
All evap hoses
EGR clean out to fix P0401 and new EGR VSV
Toyota red coolant
Rear hatch and upper hatch weatherstripping
Rear driver and rear passenger door lock actuators
Cleaned and lubed all windows (they all work but some are slow)
Replaced motor mounts (including trans)
5w-30 synthetic oil change and D3 filter
Added CDL switch. 4LO and locker works fast
Removed fender flares and installed no-flare mudflaps
40% (9/32) lift Cooper Discover tires (2017 date) 255/85R16 (skinny 33s)
New hood and hatch struts
New fuel cap
New air filter and intake tube
The good:
It doesn't have a sunroof!
New steering wheel
Interior is complete and clean (I removed all plastic trim and carpet and cleaned it all)
AC works great
Will include anything else in parts/manuals I have for 80s
The brakes work
Needs attention:
Replace power steering fluid with ATF
Finish replacing other fluids just cause their cheap (brake, diffs, transfer case)
If you keep the power seats, driver needs a new gear (the 2017 owner removed one side of the bracket so all functions still work)
Keep hunting for leaks
Paint if you're vain
Inclusions (not mentioned above):
1995 Factory service manual and electrical wiring diagram
CPACruiser crank pulley holding tool
54mm socket
Vapor barriers for the front L and R and rear R doors
Extra gaskets (throttle body, thermostat, EGR, etc)
The original steering wheel
Whatever else is in my 80 series parts bin
Original intake tube (good for someone who's is cracked
Pricing:
Someone is going to get a great project at likely a great price - I will sell this quickly. Open to offers, but I'm not going to entertain anything below $7000 at this point. I'm starting with
I, of all people, know that's a lot to ask - I'll make every effort to make it worth your time and money. Offers below that start to cut really bad and I get to pay a lot more stupid tax - so let's not try to go straight to that point.
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