Setting up a '96 LC to tow (1 Viewer)

[S. Mack]

Our “new” '96 LC is not set up to tow, but we need to tow (4000 & 1500 lb boats on trailers, wood, beams, etc.)

Since our vehicle is an 80 series, we understand from past threads that it came into the country with TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER. Where is that? How do we see that?

What EXACTLY do we need to set up to tow? (Receiver, pintle, wiring… what else?)

What kind of receiver do you guys who pull stuff recommend? (We saw from other threads that Reese, Hoppy & Valley make recommended equipment, but WHAT precisely?)

And the dirty question, how much is all this going to cost?


Much obliged.

 

[woody]

I tow pretty regularly with mine...they do have a 5000# limit, and are not fast once you approach that limit.

I run air bags in the rear coils, kept about 1-2psi for daily driving, about 25ish psi for trailering. Separate lines so the air doesn't shift as you corner.

receiver hitch....I think mine is a Reece, some have the receiver under the cross bar, some on the same plane...the "under" types lose more ground clearance for offroad use, but the receiver is a nice protector for the rear bumper too.

Wiring....not difficult, but you do need a convertor ($20ish) to change from separate turn/brake signals into one common light (like 99% of trailers are setup)

IIRC, the tranny cooler is ahead of the radiator....usually a 10"ish x 3"ish finned cooler. I tow VERY hard, and have never had the trans-oil light come on.

When I tow, I'm in Power mode all the time, and frequently manually switch between 3rd and OD. Mileage with 5000ish#'s is about 9-10, and I'm not in the mountains either.

make sure your trailer has brakes and that they work....I've got a Tekonsha Prodigy electric controller and both axles on my trailer have brakes.


I put on over 9000 miles of towing in 2005....planning a couple small trips this spring and then one "biggie" to Tellico, wheelin the 80 for a couple days, then the 40 for the rest of the week. Hopin to keep the 2006 mileage down to 7500ish or so, but who knows....

 

[S. Mack]

Wow - great response - thank you. Sounds like you have a sweet set-up with your rig (cushioned ride & all). And you DO tow a lot.

We just went outside & looked under the hood for the tranny cooler.

There is a radiator unit on the driver's side, approx. 9 inches wide & 12 - 13 inches deep vertically.... is that for the AC or the tranny cooler? (We also have to get a good engine manual, but that's another subject.)

 

[IdahoDoug]

Same setup as Woody since buying the 93 in 1993. Tow a 6000lb boat and the AirLifts keep the truck level and in control.

In addition, I'd add a set of heavier rated tires with a highway oriented tread if you're going to tow a lot. They improve control and add a margin of safety. Of course, you should also have an accelerated schedule for changing out the tranny fluid, engine oil, greasing and all other fluids.

DougM

 

[Brentbba]

Same as Woody here also. I tow a 3500lb trailer frequently! Valley Industries makes the Toyota OEM hitch here in the states. Easy install with 6 supplied bolts to existing welded nuts in the frame torqued to 75 ftlbs. Airbags from Airlift are a must as Woody has said and absolutely separate air lines for each bag. BTW Woody - Airlift recommends a minimum 5 psi IIRC. The complete Hoppy plug and play is more in the range of $40 or so IIRC. Easy plug in behind the rear plastic quarterpanels with existing molex connetectors. I'll second the Prodigy brake controller. About $100-115 plus install if you don't want to do it yourself. A must with a trailer that heavy. You won't need the brake controller if the trailer has surge brakes and all boat trailers typically have surge style brakes as electronic brakes don't like water!

 

[TomH]

I just added a hitch and wiring this weekend. I picked up a stock hitch several months ago for $40 and just added fresh paint. I have to pick up some longer bolts before I tow anything as the original ones for the tow hooks are a tad short. M12x1.25x50 should work.

I bought a draw-tite wiring kit from the local hitch store for under $30. Contrary to what Brent says, the connectors on the '97 are located under the truck right behind the spare tire. Simple plug and play. (However, after installing I got a check engine light - I assume it's not related to the trailer wiring though).

I'm just planning on towing a tent trailer so after I find one I'll decide on brakes and airbags.

Tom

 

[Brentbba]

I bought a draw-tite wiring kit from the local hitch store for under $30. Contrary to what Brent says, the connectors on the '97 are located under the truck right behind the spare tire. Simple plug and play. .

FYI - I believe the Draw-Tite and Hoppy are different. I've only installed the OEM and the Hoppy replacement, both essentially the same but recall seeing other write-up's where Draw-tite is under the truck as you mention.

 

[elmariachi]

Others may argue, but after towing a 6000 lb boat for 2 years with one of my previous 80s with stock brakes, I gotta believe that new rotors and 100 series front pads would be a worthwhile investment. I sold the boat but the little towing I have done since going to 100 pads seems to be much improved, especially in reduced fade at higher temps. FYI, with that 27' Formula on a tandem axle Myco trailer, OME heavy front/medium rear lift and ~300 lbs of tongue weight, my truck did great.

 

[e9999]

I just added a hitch and wiring this weekend. I picked up a stock hitch several months ago for $40 and just added fresh paint. I have to pick up some longer bolts before I tow anything as the original ones for the tow hooks are a tad short. M12x2.00x50 should work.

I bought a draw-tite wiring kit from the local hitch store for under $30. Contrary to what Brent says, the connectors on the '97 are located under the truck right behind the spare tire. Simple plug and play. (However, after installing I got a check engine light - I assume it's not related to the trailer wiring though).

I'm just planning on towing a tent trailer so after I find one I'll decide on brakes and airbags.

I took some pictures and may post them. With all the trailer wiring threads, I'm not sure where to put them.

Romer - if you are listening, this may ba a good FAQ topic.

Tom

12x2 does not sound right

 

[gbell210]

I'm in mid move from Dayton, OH to Redmond, WA towing a 6x12 Uhaul trailer with surge brakes. If you are going to be towing often, and are looking for a beefier rear bumper, you may want to look at a Kaymar bumper, since it has a built in receiver.
This is the first time for me towing in the LC, the trailer weighs around 4000 lbs. and rig and all weigh 11,200 lbs per a truck scale. I'm on (I believe) OEM springs and 1 yr old OEM shocks and factory towing harness. The rear sags a fair amount, I can only get 3 fingers between the tire and flare, but the ride is nice and after getting used to it, not really noticing the trailer behind me, until going up hill.
Best mpg I've got across SD was 10mpg, worst was through Iowa with a strong headwind (7.8mpg) I'll be finishing the trip tommorrow leaving from Billings, MT. So we'll see how the mountains take a toll on the mileage. Although I have found if you take hills slow and not at high rpms it helps with mileage.

One other observation that maybe someone can help me figure out... With O/D off going up hill with rpms around 3500, if I turn on the PWR mode, RPMs drop by about 300-400rpm. I'm trying to figure out what exactly the ECT is doing. Is it going into O/D, but with a different shift point or are there 2 O/D gears? I would think it would either stay the same or increase RPMs, or.. does the ECT know the engine's powerband and adjust to keep it in that rpm range?

 

[IdahoDoug]

It's locking the torque converter. Dunno why it does that though there's less heat put into the tranny with it locked up, and if someone's running the box hard in "performance" mode then this might be a good thing.

DougM

 

[woody]

correct....when the auto downshifts during towing, I'm in the habit of turning off the OD button so the convertor locks up and drops those rpms...then manually switching back into OD when I can.

 

[Tapage]

Anybody regear for tow .. ?

 

[landtank]

Anybody regear for tow .. ?

I did, but then again I had 315s on for a year first.

 

[alia176]

Hoppy does a great job at illustrating their wiring harness installation and how to route it through your particular vehicle. I found this reassuring since past trailer connections were made for an "universal" installation. Hoppy unit simply plugs into your existing connections so there's no need to cut/splice. I know that the Uhaul boys won't be happy to hear the "no cutting/spilcing" technique!

 

[Tapage]

I did, but then again I had 315s on for a year first.

with 4.88 for sure ..