Serpentine Idler and Tensioner Life?? (1 Viewer)

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04UZJ100

04UZJ100

Joined
Jul 3, 2008
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Illinois and Alaska
What sort of life have you been getting out of your serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler?

I have been hearing a low volume high frequency squeal on cold starts in damp weather. It goes away in a few minutes. You can't hear it in the cab, you have to walk to the front of the truck to hear it.

Going to be driving to Alaska in 10 weeks and don't want to be stranded.

Any ideas on what the cold start squeal may be? Don't want to replace $200 in parts just because.

Thanks,
Will

FYI I'm at 175k and I believe everything was replaced at 90k. Need to double check.
 
My mom's just went out on her way home to Florida from my house last week. She's at around 260k and I'd guess its original. I'm not aware of any noises prior to it giving up.
 
tiptoez said:
My mom's just went out on her way home to Florida from my house last week. She's at around 260k and I'd guess its original. I'm not aware of any noises prior to it giving up.
Click to expand...

What part? Idler, tensioner, or belt?
 
'99 LX, ~159k, I was hearing noise, so I took the belt off to check...

Idler spun forever, had a little noise to it. Tensioner pulley was very wobbly, did not spin well.

Replaced both pulleys and belt, >$200.

Good news is both pulley look like the bearing can be pressed right out. If you have time, a press, and an industrial bearing supplier nearby, you could probably rebuild yours for much less $. Or I could probably get part #s off my bearings if you like, maybe you could order off Amazon or other?
 
My tensioner pulley siezed and shredded the belt at 215k. Made a tiny bit of noise at cold start up but nothing alarming. Shortly after, I did the timing belt/waterpump and changed every pulley including the fan bracket. Every single one was chewy/crunchy and original as far as I could tell.

Pull the belt and spin each pulley by hand. If it has a tight and smooth drag and doesn't free spin, you're good. Or get a mechanics stethoscope and listen to each pulley with the engine running. It should be smooth. Any crunch/grind/chirp should be replaced.

If I were driving to Alaska, I wouldn't hesitate to spend the money to replace them all if they sound like they might need it. Or anything else you even remotely think might need to be changed. Theres some huge distances between repair facilities in Western Canada/AK.
 
Idler, tensioner lasted till 217k miles here
 
PabloCruise said:
'99 LX, ~159k, I was hearing noise, so I took the belt off to check...

Idler spun forever, had a little noise to it. Tensioner pulley was very wobbly, did not spin well.

Replaced both pulleys and belt, >$200.

Good news is both pulley look like the bearing can be pressed right out. If you have time, a press, and an industrial bearing supplier nearby, you could probably rebuild yours for much less $. Or I could probably get part #s off my bearings if you like, maybe you could order off Amazon or other?
Click to expand...

This would be awesome to have the actual bearing numbers. Many times at my work we replace bearings on machines using the actual bearing numbers bypassing the dealers saving much$$. Alot of times we get the bearings from Napa.

On another note has anyone re-packed their sealed bearings on either pulley? I am in a testing phase at my work re-packing "bad" sealed bearings because we are on a tight budget this year. I guess time will tell how they hold up. They seem to go from trashed to very good with some cleaning and repacking.
 
sean2202 said:
This would be awesome to have the actual bearing numbers. Many times at my work we replace bearings on machines using the actual bearing numbers bypassing the dealers saving much$$. Alot of times we get the bearings from Napa.

On another note has anyone re-packed their sealed bearings on either pulley? I am in a testing phase at my work re-packing "bad" sealed bearings because we are on a tight budget this year. I guess time will tell how they hold up. They seem to go from trashed to very good with some cleaning and repacking.
Click to expand...

Okay, if I can remember long enough I can get these numbers when I get home.
 
sean2202 said:
This would be awesome to have the actual bearing numbers. Many times at my work we replace bearings on machines using the actual bearing numbers bypassing the dealers saving much$$. Alot of times we get the bearings from Napa.

On another note has anyone re-packed their sealed bearings on either pulley? I am in a testing phase at my work re-packing "bad" sealed bearings because we are on a tight budget this year. I guess time will tell how they hold up. They seem to go from trashed to very good with some cleaning and repacking.
Click to expand...

I have not forgotten, I will be able to look at the take off pulleys this weekend.
 
sean2202 said:
This would be awesome to have the actual bearing numbers. Many times at my work we replace bearings on machines using the actual bearing numbers bypassing the dealers saving much$$. Alot of times we get the bearings from Napa.

On another note has anyone re-packed their sealed bearings on either pulley? I am in a testing phase at my work re-packing "bad" sealed bearings because we are on a tight budget this year. I guess time will tell how they hold up. They seem to go from trashed to very good with some cleaning and repacking.
Click to expand...

Idler Pulley bearing # = BD20 - 15DUL, NSK bearing

Tensioner Pulley # = 6203LH, NTN

Hope that helps!
 
Last edited:
ranma21 said:
Yup I usually do but I am out of the idler as of now. o_O
Click to expand...

So what is the part number for the standalone idlers? I seem to only see the pulley for the tensioner: 166030W030.

Thanks in advance!!

szBLA2r.jpg
 
Last edited:
AMGAndrew said:
........Pull the belt and spin each pulley by hand. If it has a tight and smooth drag and doesn't free spin, you're good. Or get a mechanics stethoscope and listen to each pulley with the engine running. It should be smooth. Any crunch/grind/chirp should be replaced. .......
.
Click to expand...

I would add to this that even if they spin smoothly the grease inside the bearing may be dried, or washed out. At 173K-ish I had a noisy tensioner bearing (on cold starts) spun that very smoothly and actually wasn't grinding but had slight play ( and upon inspection no grease remaining inside). The additional check-point is to inspect for free-play to see if you can get any movement in & out back & forth etc. There should be no play. Now my Idler is starting to chirp on cold starts. Thanks JerryB for the link to the lowest price on Genuine OEM Idler pulleys Ive found so far.
 
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