Self-Etching Primer? (1 Viewer)

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Thoughts on this process. While I love the ML products I am having a hard time with the available colors, plus I like the shine of a decent paint job. ..

I'm at the same place. What about ML the bottom of the truck and paint the top? That's an option for two tone paint schemes.
 
I'm at the same place. What about ML the bottom of the truck and paint the top? That's an option for two tone paint schemes.
Meh... not crazy on the two tone thing.

I had been thinking of going the route of hitting up the local auto paint shop for the pigment for the 8B4 blue and throwing that in the ML.
 
Sherwin makes a farm coating called Polane. i have used it on vehicle parts before and is tintable. You can get it in semi gloss and flat sheen as well. You may also be able to get pigments for that paint there as well and mix it yourself. I used a similar product on my 40 with a 10* sheen and it hides a lot of the imperfections.
 
Sherwin makes a farm coating called Polane. i have used it on vehicle parts before and is tintable. You can get it in semi gloss and flat sheen as well. You may also be able to get pigments for that paint there as well and mix it yourself. I used a similar product on my 40 with a 10* sheen and it hides a lot of the imperfections.
Not so worried about hiding imperfections or anything like that just want a good coating on the truck since she has such a s***ty job as-is. The problem comes down to being able to adequately spray vs. roll the ML. Both will require a decent amount of prep regardless (and prep is key). But where the ML is winning out is that I can do that outside without the need of a booth or spray (roll on) and it should setup quicker in the right temp thus not having to worry about sudden gusts and getting crap falling from trees or whatnot. However the spray would definitely give me a much better look.

I think this weekend I am going to grab a HF HVLP (purple) gun and mess around a bit of the next few months (while the weather warms up). If I get decent with the gun then I may go that way.
 
Meh... not crazy on the two tone thing.

I had been thinking of going the route of hitting up the local auto paint shop for the pigment for the 8B4 blue and throwing that in the ML.

I go back and forth on the two tone. Since my stock color is red, my current idea is to use red ML for the bottom and matching shiny red paint for the top. There's a black bed liner paint product currently on some of the lower body that's been there for several years, and I'm pretty sure it has saved most of that metal from rusting.
 
Finally popped the dent out of my donor rear passenger door so now it is time to tear it down and paint. Going to start with the Rustoleum enamel Smoke Grey color that I picked up to see how well it matches. Sucky thing is that the donor door is white which will be interesting, but other than that is in really good shape.
 
So I finally got around to doing a little painting on the valence due to the nice weather we had been having. Found a new color offering from Rust-o-leum called Deep Slate that I really like. Just haven't had a chance to get it re-installed quite yet due to other things going on. Sucky part is that rustoleum doesn't make it in anything other than a rattle can at this point. So I am going to try and get the body work done that I need and then if by then they having come out with gallon sizes, I will see about a local shop matching in a heavy duty enamel paint.

Since this will be my first go-round with stuff like this I am planning on picking up a HF DA polisher to help make it look better. Question is, what is a good "kit" of polishing pads??? I have heard that the backing plates from HF suck so to go with something else and was planning on grabbing something like this (Amazon.com: Ultimate 6 Pad Buffing and Polishing Kit with 6 - 8" Pads; 5 TCP Global Waffle Foam & 1 Wool Grip Pads and a 5/8" Threaded Polisher Grip Backing Plate: Automotive) from amazon to go with the HF polisher. From there just have to grab some polishing compounds. Good thing is I can practice a bit on the FJ60s replacement door before I paint, and then see about fixing the swirl marks and water stain on the wife's black 4runner.
 
I bought some pads, Velcro backing pad and a sample pack of 4oz polishes from Chemical Guys. Very good stuff. I sanded a fresh clear coat with 1500, 2000, then polished and you can't tell where I sanded and didn't sand (meaning the polished part was as shiny and scratch free as the fresh clear).

I was using a polisher from TCP that came with it for a while, but the pads from chemical guys were much better. Just get the orange, white, and black hex logic pad kit.
 
Ok thanks for the info.. I had planned on picking up their pads when the time came, just wasn't aware of a "sampler pack" of the polishes.
 

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