Seeking your thoughts on new drawer system

[AATLAS1X]

Can I talk you into turning that 1/4 turn tension lock 180* so the T-handle pushes down.

I know the challenge behind it, but I'd rather have a loch that secures at the top and not the bottom. With the adjustments that handle has built in, and the hinges at the bottom and not the middle it may make for a rattle less design.

 

[TrekboxX]

Can I talk you into turning that 1/4 turn tension lock 180* so the T-handle pushes down.

I know the challenge behind it, but I'd rather have a loch that secures at the top and not the bottom. With the adjustments that handle has built in, and the hinges at the bottom and not the middle it may make for a rattle less design.

There are many advantages (imo) to having the t-handle secure at the bottom. I'd like to know why you would prefer it to secure at the top? I'm sure this is not the first time I've heard that... I'm curious.

 

[AATLAS1X]

Its a smoother action to turn and push down to lock from above.

It was the first obstacle when I was designing drawers. Sadly the devil in the details haunts me with everything I do.

 

[RobRed]

Can I talk you into turning that 1/4 turn tension lock 180* so the T-handle pushes down.

I know the challenge behind it, but I'd rather have a loch that secures at the top and not the bottom. With the adjustments that handle has built in, and the hinges at the bottom and not the middle it may make for a rattle less design.

I ran for 16 months with a system that used those handles "upside down" - no rattles. Adjusting the tension is just as easy from the bottom.

Your OCD wants them right side up because that's they way they are designed

 

[sonk76]

After considerable thought on the orientation of the handle, I too concluded that having the latch engage at the bottom would ultimately be the better trade off (EDIT: at least for me.) Mainly driven by the improved strength of the latching point (with the main tradeoff being the lost space at the bottom of the drawer at that point.

 

[TrekboxX]

After considerable thought on the orientation of the handle, I too concluded that having the latch engage at the bottom would ultimately be the better trade off. Mainly driven by the improved strength of the latching point (with the main tradeoff being the lost space at the bottom of the drawer at that point.

You're right, but actually less space is lost than if you put the latch at the top due to the fact that you need to have a "guard" either way. Having it at the bottom means your latch guard only takes away the drawer space half way up, but having at the top would really get in the way imo. Also, you are right it is a far stronger latching point due to the lack of drawer-face support in the upper middle. Another advantage of the lower latch is that you can grip the full depth of the box bottom, where as on the top you'd need to leave some "meat" and not allow the top surface to be affected. Couple this with the fact that the grip roller is tapered at the very end, and you have a very small contact surface.

This is all overkill, anyways. The Accuride slides provide plenty of holding power. The latch is just to make the drawer locking and give a nice folding pull handle.

 

[OregonLC]

If secured from the bottom, could the tongue of the Allegis compression latch serve double-duty as a pseudo open lock against the tailgate? Granted, this wouldn't keep the drawer fully open, but at least far enough open that it would be useful for most task without holding it on a decline. If so, it could reduce cost by going to non-locking slides.

 

[TrekboxX]

If secured from the bottom, could the tongue of the Allegis compression latch serve double-duty as a pseudo open lock against the tailgate? Granted, this wouldn't keep the drawer fully open, but at least far enough open that it would be useful for most task without holding it on a decline. If so, it could reduce cost by going to non-locking slides.

Yes! I actually use mine like that all the time. It's very handy when you just need to get something in the front of the drawer, but the locking slides are still very necessary imo. There is still a lot more drawer to open when the latch is hooked on the gate...

 

[hoser]

Anybody with experience with both the Allegis handles and the ARB/Outback drawers want to compare the two?

 

[AATLAS1X]

Whatever way you run the lock orientation will work. Each has its pros and cons.

The cage that will cover it, use the four mounting screws to retain it. Of course it will have an open top or a lid that's held on by tension. ( ill send you details and drawing.


You can use nutserts on the cage or nylon flange nuts.

My idea was to have a small stash place for extra keys, medication and $100 bill, all things I carry.

I buy these handles from a company that builds million dollar combines and they get hard use. They design in house and use the best products.

I'm waiting for my OS push pull handles to break.

 

[AATLAS1X]

Yes! I actually use mine like that all the time. It's very handy when you just need to get something in the front of the drawer, but the locking slides are still very necessary imo. There is still a lot more drawer to open when the latch is hooked on the gate...

I bet the OS locking device is a standard part and not they'd design. It might be able to be found if you dig.

 

[TrekboxX]

Whatever way you run the lock orientation will work. Each has its pros and cons.

The cage that will cover it, use the four mounting screws to retain it. Of course it will have an open top or a lid that's held on by tension. ( ill send you details and drawing.


You can use nutserts on the cage or nylon flange nuts.

My idea was to have a small stash place for extra keys, medication and $100 bill, all things I carry.

I buy these handles from a company that builds million dollar combines and they get hard use. They design in house and use the best products.

I'm waiting for my OS push pull handles to break.

I am working on a solution to have the mounting screws hold the cover box, however it ideally needs to be removable while keeping the latch secured so you can adjust the latch in place.

As far as nutserts, I used them on my first build, but I am deleting them on the production model for everything except to hold the wood shelf to the support structure. IMO, the nutserts leave too much room for a customer to tweak and loosen them. They are fine if they are only used in tension, but even if you are careful installing the system it's easy to torque one, and then you are screwed if you don't know how to remove and install them. I switched to through bolts for everything. Not quite as elegant but much stronger and fool proof.

Which handles are you talking about? I'd love to see them if they could improve the system!

Thanks!

 

[AATLAS1X]

On the nutserts, were they aluminum or steel? I use the ribbed steel ones and it takes a huge tool to set them in place. I went through several versions. But I understand why you're go away.

 

[TrekboxX]

They were the good steel ones. They set very well, I just think I could make customers happier if I took the possibility of failure out of the equation..

 

[jonharis]

Great looking system and a great alternative to the Outback Solutions system that many of us have and love. I really like the fridge slide and kitchen portion. Far and away better looking than anything OS has available.

 

[TrekboxX]

Thank you, Jon. I actually saw an OS system for the first time today. I'll just say I'm happy with what I have

 

[RobRed]

Thank you, Jon. I actually saw an OS system for the first time today. I'll just say I'm happy with what I have

Easy now... I spent money on that system.

 

[TrekboxX]

Easy now... I spent money on that system.

And I'm sure you can sell it for real money

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

1407Driver, you have a nice system, but any thoughts of making the drawers out of metal instead of wood? I know this has been beaten to death, but wood takes up a lot of space. Seems to me, if you are creating a company that makes drawer systems, figuring out how to use metal for the drawers would put you in direct competition with ARB and the like.

Either way, nice system!

 

[TrekboxX]

1407Driver, you have a nice system, but any thoughts of making the drawers out of metal instead of wood? I know this has been beaten to death, but wood takes up a lot of space. Seems to me, if you are creating a company that makes drawer systems, figuring out how to use metal for the drawers would put you in direct competition with ARB and the like.

Either way, nice system!

Thanks. Yes, wood does take up more space than sheet metal. I decided to use wood for many reasons. In reality, the only lost space is in the thickness of the drawer sides themselves. If you look at the metal systems, they usually have at least 3/4" thick structure for the box anyways. They also use wood for the top. Why? Because it's stronger! (quality solid core ply) than equivalent steel (by weight/shape) for this purpose. Here are a few of my thoughts/reasons I like wood for these systems:

1. Wood is quieter. Once covered in bed liner (mine will be, theirs aren't), this would probably be a wash.
2. Wood holds its shape when stressed. If you over load/impact sheet metal, it becomes deformed. Wood does not, unless you break it. Good luck breaking 18mm Baltic Birch!
3. Wood is much stronger when it comes to repeated stress. Metal work hardens and cracks.
4. Wood looks and feels much better- personal preference.
5. This one's important- wood is easily modified by the end user. You can drill it, screw into it, etc. to attach all of your needed and wanted accessories much more easily than steel. Electronics, air lines, switches, fire extinguishers, tie downs, quick fists- whatever. I know mudders- they're always tweaking!

It's not a Ford vs Chevy thing for me. I like to use whatever material is appropriate for the task at hand. It's definitely debatable, but I think that wood for the boxes is the way to go for a higher end system. Actually, I use many materials in my system- wood, steel, plastic, and aluminum. Having said all of this, in the future I may consider using steel sheet for only the drawer sides and back to save space, as you mention. But, I really believe that the whole box, drawer faces, and drawer bottoms are better in wood. Hope that helps!

David