Searched everywhere, still need help on 22re

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May 26, 2007
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Silverton Colorado
I have a 1985 Toyota 4x4 with the 22re in it, the problem I am having is that the engine is pushing coolant out of the radiator cap into the overflow tank. Thing is I just did a head gasket and a new head. Plus the system has suction once it cools down and sucks the coolant back into the system. Cracked block and head gasket wouldn't have suction upon cool down. This has me pulling my hair out. Radiator and heater core are original and have had I don't know how much stop leak poured through them before I bought the truck. Any insight would be much appreciated.

Tony
 
When's the last time it got a new radiator cap?
 
I have a 1985 Toyota 4x4 with the 22re in it, the problem I am having is that the engine is pushing coolant out of the radiator cap into the overflow tank. Plus the system has suction once it cools down and sucks the coolant back into the system.
Tony

Uh, I think it's supposed to do that. That is why the tank is there.
 
Uh, I think it's supposed to do that. That is why the tank is there.

It overfills the tank though and leaks out the top, which isn't normal

When's the last time it got a new radiator cap?

It has a brand new one, I did a system pressure test and a cap test on the new cap I had in the shop to make sure the system was sealed.

This one has me completely stumped right now. I'm still leaning towards a cracked block, but then there wouldn't be suction in the system after it cools.
 
What about a clogged or partially clogged radiator and or heater core, could that be the issue?? The radiator seemed to dump coolant at a normal rate when I removed the lower hose to drain the system when I did the head and head gasket, but possibly could a clogged radiator cause excessive pressure? Keep the ideas coming, I need some serious help with getting this thing on the road. I'm at my wits end and am driving a 13mpg diesel daily right now, which is drinking all sorts of cash.

Thanks, Tony
 
check your fan, your clutch in your fan could be bad. with the engine hot and turned off, see if the fan spins if it does replace or rebuild the clutch. there is info on here on how to rebuild one, you will have to search. and hopefully you did not buy your head off ebay.
 
The head came from a very reputable local toyota engine builder, and the fan clutch is new from Yota. All the obvious overheating cooling issues have been addressed, new waterpump, timing chain, guides, Housing inspected for cracks/damage, no water in the oil, and I'm still stumped, so are a few other people I know. I turned here in hopes of someone who may have had a similar issue. How common are internally cracked blocks with 22re's?
 
Are you actually loosing antifrezze or even overheating? You may have said something already?
The head came from a very reputable local toyota engine builder, and the fan clutch is new from Yota. All the obvious overheating cooling issues have been addressed, new waterpump, timing chain, guides, Housing inspected for cracks/damage, no water in the oil, and I'm still stumped, so are a few other people I know. I turned here in hopes of someone who may have had a similar issue. How common are internally cracked blocks with 22re's?
 
Its not overheating, just pushing enough coolant out to fill up the overflow, even causing it to overflow. All within about 20 minutes or so.
 
I've also been thinking air pocket, but I assumed it's been cycled enough to get it all out. Maybe not.

This is why I always fill the engine with coolant by removing the thermostat and slowly pouring coolant in the hole. I also will sometimes remove the top heater hose at the firewall while filling, since it's the high spot in the system (heater set to full hot). There will still be some small pockets left, but they work themselves out in a few hot/cold cycles.
 
22r series, are notorious for air pockets.

I always do a partial fill cold, leave the cap off, and pray it does not spill, IE, i did not start with too much coolant.
make sure the heater valve is open and the controls inside set to hot, so the heater core is in the flow.

I start it, and run it , and gently squeeze the top hose over and over to force the air out.

I wait until the stat opens, and i have a good flow, and slowly add coolant a little at a time, squeezing the top hose over and over.

Be patient, because when the air bubble comes out, if you over filled the rad, it goes all over, no fun. If that happens, you will at least know the air pocket is out .....

Another technique an engine builder friend does it to install la T in the highest heater hose, as an air bleed.

Main point is make sure before you cap it, it has a stable fill level in the rad with the cap off.

Happy Thanksgiving all!
 
I had checked the heater core to make sure it had water in it previously, but I hadn't taken the time to bleed the system the way it needed. With all trucks I've worked on (Fords, Chevys, and Toyotas) I have never encountered a cooling system that took so much time to bleed. Normally they burp, I add coolant and it's fine, but I waited and let it go for a while this time around with the 22re and it burped twice and I let the whole system reach operating temp while massaging the coolant and heater lines. I was more than surprised by the amount of air in the system. I test drove it for the amount of time it used to take to overfill the tank and then some, so far so good. Thanks for all your help and I will keep a close eye on it for the next few days to make sure it doesn't piss coolant out of the overflow anymore.


Tony
 
Glad you fixed it.

Interesting fact though..of the many times I have drained/filled my radiator, I have never encountered this issue.

I fill with the engne off. Leave cap off. Start truck and turn on heat. The level will fall. Add until it gets to the top and watch it cycle. When it stabilizes (level) you are done.

I have never had one "burp" or "piss" ( :

Just thought I would share. Not that it helps the matter LOL

Now, I did have issues with an old Ford Truck. Many recommended driving the truck onto a hill or jacking the front up when attempting to bleed the cooling system.
 
Go to your local Toyota parts Dept. and get an OEM thermostat. Your problem will be fixed.
I've seen this a couple of times!
Cruiserr
 

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