- Thread starter
- #41
Again, I tend to agree. We have the factory elocker in our 99 4Runner. Personally, after using about 6 or 7 ARB equipped axles.....I much prefer the ARB. The factory unit works fine (from what little I've had cause to use it), but it takes forever to engage and disengage.
I get the feeling from some of the posts here and Schott's comment about not wanting to start a war, that this site has a tendency to shun the idea of using other than factory parts. That used to be common on many other Toyota specific boards I frequented and for good reason. Toyota makes (IMO) the finest automotive products on the market; hence why I believe it's one of the best platforms to start with. As with anything else though, it can be improved upon especially for a specific use like a trail rig.
I noticed this when I brought up putting a pair of 60s under my proposed 80. The only people who will tell you that a 35 spline 60 and an FJ80 front axle are comparable for serious wheeling are people who aren't running a 60 and never have. I italicized "my" above b/c, afterall, it is my idea; built to my uses. I know how hard I am on equipment and what typically breaks on most vehicles on the trails I like to run.
I don't pretend I know everything....what I don't know I would like to be taught. So, with that in mind, can some of you guys who have experience tell me what normally breaks on Fj80s used for more extreme trails with 37"+ tires.
Some common things I wonder about on the 80:
Axles....birfs, inners, R&P...any issues with drive flanges coming loose, i.e., needing different slugs? Steering knuckles prone to breakage, what about steering parts in general....pitman arm or steering box? What about link brackets on the axles....hold up well or get torn off? I'm pretty sure I'd be ditching the factory axles in favor of a pair of 60s, but it can't hurt to ask, right?
Frame....some threads mention a lot of flex in the frame and for example, the rear hatch won't close when really twisted up. Does this result in cracks and if so, where? Will additional crossmembers added into the frame help the issue, is fishmouthed plating of the frame necessary to repair the cracked areas? What about the steering box area....do cracks appear here especially with hydro assist and 37"+ tires. What about the panhard bar mounts on the frame....do they crack/rip out with increased leverage from larger tires and harder trails?
Any Auto tranny issues to be concerned with? Any catastrophic (meaning: truck no move) type failures such as torque cracks in the aluminum (guessing) housing or failure of internals? Any computer related issues with shifting with the marks4wd.com crawler box?
How's the driveshaft situation....lengthwise? Any angle problems running the amount of lift required (generally speaking) to clear a 37" tire? I know lift is relative b/c it depends on how much you move the axle forward and how much you cut off the body. I plan to stretch the wheelbase anyway, but any length problems would give me a heads up.
Cooling system....I know autos usually generate more heat than manuals but Toyotas are generally known for running cool. Anything different about the 94-97 80 series?
Fuel system....how hard is the fuel filter to change and is the pump an internal tank pump or external? If internal, do you have to drop the tank to change it? How hard are pumps to get? Dealer only or Napa/AZ?
That's all I can think of currently.
Sean
I get the feeling from some of the posts here and Schott's comment about not wanting to start a war, that this site has a tendency to shun the idea of using other than factory parts. That used to be common on many other Toyota specific boards I frequented and for good reason. Toyota makes (IMO) the finest automotive products on the market; hence why I believe it's one of the best platforms to start with. As with anything else though, it can be improved upon especially for a specific use like a trail rig.
I noticed this when I brought up putting a pair of 60s under my proposed 80. The only people who will tell you that a 35 spline 60 and an FJ80 front axle are comparable for serious wheeling are people who aren't running a 60 and never have. I italicized "my" above b/c, afterall, it is my idea; built to my uses. I know how hard I am on equipment and what typically breaks on most vehicles on the trails I like to run.
I don't pretend I know everything....what I don't know I would like to be taught. So, with that in mind, can some of you guys who have experience tell me what normally breaks on Fj80s used for more extreme trails with 37"+ tires.
Some common things I wonder about on the 80:
Axles....birfs, inners, R&P...any issues with drive flanges coming loose, i.e., needing different slugs? Steering knuckles prone to breakage, what about steering parts in general....pitman arm or steering box? What about link brackets on the axles....hold up well or get torn off? I'm pretty sure I'd be ditching the factory axles in favor of a pair of 60s, but it can't hurt to ask, right?
Frame....some threads mention a lot of flex in the frame and for example, the rear hatch won't close when really twisted up. Does this result in cracks and if so, where? Will additional crossmembers added into the frame help the issue, is fishmouthed plating of the frame necessary to repair the cracked areas? What about the steering box area....do cracks appear here especially with hydro assist and 37"+ tires. What about the panhard bar mounts on the frame....do they crack/rip out with increased leverage from larger tires and harder trails?
Any Auto tranny issues to be concerned with? Any catastrophic (meaning: truck no move) type failures such as torque cracks in the aluminum (guessing) housing or failure of internals? Any computer related issues with shifting with the marks4wd.com crawler box?
How's the driveshaft situation....lengthwise? Any angle problems running the amount of lift required (generally speaking) to clear a 37" tire? I know lift is relative b/c it depends on how much you move the axle forward and how much you cut off the body. I plan to stretch the wheelbase anyway, but any length problems would give me a heads up.
Cooling system....I know autos usually generate more heat than manuals but Toyotas are generally known for running cool. Anything different about the 94-97 80 series?
Fuel system....how hard is the fuel filter to change and is the pump an internal tank pump or external? If internal, do you have to drop the tank to change it? How hard are pumps to get? Dealer only or Napa/AZ?
That's all I can think of currently.
Sean
.....it wouldn't stall before breaking. I know for a fact I can exceed the torque rating on my 60 shafts at will....just depress the stupid pedal and wait for the SNAP! 
