Sean's 80 build discussion.

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I thought this was too good of a discussion to be buried in a trail run thread, thanks Spike for starting the new thread. I attempted to move all of the posts in order and save the discussion, but this is my first try at it, so if I missed anything please point it out.
 
I thought this was too good of a discussion to be buried in a trail run thread, thanks Spike for starting the new thread. I attempted to move all of the posts in order and save the discussion, but this is my first try at it, so if I missed anything please point it out.

Ooops....I thanked Spike for moving this stuff....guess I should've said Kevin.

Thanks Kevin. :D

Sean
 
Stock 80 gets at best 15 MPG. T-cases are gear driven AFAIK (never been in one, but that's what I hear). The things that make an 80 better than a 4Runner are SFA, rear floating axle (93+), tractor engine built to go forever (I always cite the ~9 quart oil capacity as just one example of the 'overbuild' design mentality that went into the engine, there are other examples as well), bus transmission (literally damn near the same tranny used in my Mitsubishi cab-over work truck, and buses from what I hear), full-time 4wd, more room inside, and a whole bunch of overengineering to make the truck reliable, for example the centrifugal air cleaner that removes much of the dirt before it hits the filter, and the double tranny cooler (radiator and external) plus steering fluid cooler loop and oil cooler, just to name a couple. Some of these advantages will obviously not concern you, like the SFA, because you'll be rectifying them anyway. I love Toyota, and have owned several non LC Toyotas as well as 4 LC's. I tend to think of LC's as a whole different car company, a step above Toyota. The design goes beyond even Toyota's usual standards, just as Toyotas in general are a step above most other manufacturers. The choice of which one to build depends on how many of those features, and others, are important to you vs. what you can do with a 4Runner base. Personally, the things the 4Runner offers are MPG and smaller size. I'd imagine the MPG won't concern you as much on 37's, and the difference between the two might be less considering the additional torque the I6 gives you- the larger tires might not affect the MPG with the extra power quite as much, although I get a steady 10 MPG with my lifted 80, while the wife gets 14 in her stock one.

-Spike

Wow, the mileage is really bad then. I had no idea. My old Toyota truck with the 22re, 5.38s and 38" SXs got 18 on the highway (65 mph). When it was stock it got around 22, maybe 23. I was hoping for something similar (18 mpg or thereabouts) with the next build.


I'm a manual transmission guy too....but can only get the Cruiser in an auto. I could probably get past that b/c I really like the 80 better than the Runner.

I can do a crawl box much cheaper on the Runner....but I just don't like the body style as well.

The 4Runner's 3.4L seems (to me) to lack a lot of low end grunt....but I think that's b/c of the tall gears in the axles. I'll rectify that if I build it, but I'd imagine that's also part of why it gets 26 mpg on the highway.

Hmmm....you've given me alot of good info and a lot to think about. I think we're a few months (at least) from buying either a new commuter car for her or a project vehicle for me, but at least I've learned some important things and am starting to get the ball rolling on options.

Thanks!

Sean
 
Hey...quick question about the floating rear axle on an 80. What diameter and spline count are they?

The reason I ask: Land Rover guys always brag about their FF rear axles. Yet I've seen two broken and haven't wheeled with very many of them. The reason: (IMO of course) the thing's about 1" diameter. It seriously looks like a fat pencil. :) I'd guess the Toyota is their standard 1.31" (1 5/16") 30 spline or larger but would be interested to know.

Sean
 
Spike,
Great info on the electric lockers....exactly what I needed to know. For sheer cost, I was contemplating 37" MTRs (or similar radials) w/ locks, Longfields and the stock electric lockers (obviously a gear change to something in the 5+:1 range), but after hearing about the shafts seizing up, I'll definitely go with my original plan of F/R 35 spline D60s and hydro assist.

The stock axles are plenty strong, I wouldn't spend the $$$ on D60's. The rear locker problem that Spike is talking about is limited to the e-locker axle design when pushed VERY hard. If your planning to wheel it that hard simply use an unlocked rear diff and add an auto locker or ARB.

I'd defintely use a 3 link/panhard up front and probably a double triangulated 4 link in back (but possibly another 3 link....depending on space and gas tank issues).

The 3 link/panhard in the front is a good plan and relatively easy. The rear works pretty well, if you want it longer, make longer links and trim the rear of the wheel wells. Or make a U link for the upper and ditch the panhard.


I'm definitely not looking to build a buggy out of an 80, nor am I looking to tow with it....I have a Cummins for that job and a buggy already. Mainly, I'm wanting something I could DD, could road trip to Moab and Colorado in, and could lend out to friends/family when they're in town if we all wanted to do some wheeling. Also, I don't have kids now, but I just got married and if/when they come along, I need more than the two seater I have now. I'm not looking to even attempt to build something as capable as my buggy.....just something I could run a trail like Highway to Hell with and not worry about much other than a little rock rash.

So, with all that in mind would a 4Runner be a better fit? We already own a 99 with the 3.4L V6 that we bought new at the end of 98. Super reliable....it's my wife's DD. My choice is buy her a new car and build the Runner or keep the Runner as her DD and buy something else to build....like an 80. Her Runner gets good mileage (about 26 mpg on the highway).....pretty sure the 80's don't do that well. Anyone got a rough estimate of mileage for an 80 with stock size (around 31-32") tires?

Sean

The 80 is a great platform for what you are looking for, better, more comfortable interior, already SFA and more stout than the 4runner. Several have built the rig that your looking for, some ideas;

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=88594

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=122453

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=125260

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=71280
 
A simple rear 3 link;
r_3link_sm.webp
 
Well, here's how I see stock Toyota front axles (rears are excellent): the birfield design is good in theory. CVs don't bind like ujoints at full lock. Maintenance, however, SUCKS. The knuckles on my Toyota trucks and Dad's FJ40s all leaked. Sure, they stopped after you replaced the felt gaskets....for awhile. Within 6 months, they were leaking again.


Then there's the breakage problem with the birfs. On the mini-truck axles with stock birfs anything deemed "hardcore" with a front locker and a 35" tire, and you start breaking....a LOT.

When I converted my IFS 91 Toy to SFA, I used a front axle from an 85 Toyota truck b/c I'd been misled to believe it was as strong as a D44. After breaking 2 front marfields, (the first attempts at upgrading birfields) destroying one housing, and dealing with what can only be described as an "unbelieveable mess" for a trailside repair, I decided to go D44.

I ran for over 5 years with the D44 with larger tires (38s vs. 35s) on much tougher trails, and broke 1 axle on the trail (it broke off in the carrier where it necked down to the splines)....I must admit, I have a little trick to make stock Spicer shafts and ujoints live, but even still....the purchase price alone of Dana components is so affordable that I can pretty much wipe my ass with them once a year and toss them in the garbage. Add to that: relatively easy and quick availability. Plus....no leaking knuckles or messy trail repairs.

Then, when you get into the D60, things get even better. Strengthwise, there's no comparison and housing failures are uncommon from broken axles with kingpin style axles. Parts are only slightly more expensive (once you get past initial purchase).

Other problems are that the mini-trucks use the 7.8" ring gear. I'm pretty sure all the electric lockers in Tacomas and 4Runners also use this size....but am unsure about the LC. The other ring gear size for open diffs is 8.2"

This generally isn't a problem, but lets say I go FZJ80 with stock open diffs (guessing it's at least an 8.2", maybe an 8.875" like the older Fj40s, but hopefully bigger). I then lock the diffs with ARBs, put in Longfields and run 5.29s to go with the 37" tires. What's my new weak link? Most guys that did this in the minitrucks found out it was their R&P...even the ones running the reverse cut FJ80 thirdmembers (albeit with the electric locker and hence the 7.8" RG). Not a good weak link.

From what I understand, the FJ80s have bigger birfs than the minitruck axles and are generally pretty good to 35" tires with lockers on hard trails. 37's is where things start breaking often. Let me be clear, I'm talking about really binding the axles up while climbing up boulders that are easily 4 ft tall or bigger. That's the kind of obstacles I like to drive and want this vehicle capable of handling. I really hope that last part doesn't sound like bragging.....I'm trying to explain the use b/c invariably someone with 37s will show up and say, "Ya, I run Martinez Canyon in my 80 a few times a year and I never break anything". I'm sure that's true, but when I run Martinez, I run lines that most people don't...not cause I'm a badass (I'm not)....I just enjoy very technical wheeling.

As for the D60s....it also makes sense from a support vehicle stand point. If I were to build it with 60s....I will make them exactly the same as what I'm running in the buggy. That way if one breaks an axle, I've already got a spare set. And....if I'm going to definitely get rid of the front axle, there's no point in keeping the rear b/c then I'd end up with a custom width front housing.

Speaking of: anyone know stock wheel mount flange to WMF width on an 80 (front and/or rear)? Generally, I've found the added width of a fullwidth axle like a 60 to be of great benefit in reducing body damage while increasing stability. Downside is: big gay mudflaps if you drive on the street. ;p


Can a triangulated upper link be made to work in the rear or does it get into the gas tank?

Sean

***EDIT*** Oh, and thanks for the links. Good stuff. :cool:
 
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Awww...it just hit me....no hubs up front. You mentioned full time 4wd, but that's dropping mileage probably 3 mpg or so. Another reason I like the 60 over the LC axle is I can throw 35 spline hubs on it....although I wonder how the tcase and computer will react, especially with a full time case. Guess I need to check out Marks4wd.com to see how their tcase kit effects the computer controlled (guessing) transmission and 4wd system.

Sean
 
The 80 front axle is compared favorably with the D60, but there's no doubt the D60 is the winner. Add the spare parts swapability and I can see where you're going. I hear 8" ring when discussing the front R&P, but I'm not sure exactly what it is.

I don't think the full time 4wd will be an issue, there are part-time kits available that basically remove the viscuous coupler from the center diff and swap the drive flanges for hubs. I don't think there's any electronic issues. AFAIK the only thing computer controlled is the shift points, but there are ways to fix that if it becomes an issue.

I don't know offhand the WMF to WMF width.

You don't need mudflaps on an SUV. :D

-Spike
 
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Dude, you know this already....


Super Missile Weld Tig Rod....weld the greaseable spicer caps to the yokes, rinse, repeat. :) On a 44, throw them away when they get so sloppy that there are NO needle bearings in the caps anymore (usually about a year's worth of wheeling 4 plus rated trails at least 26 weekends/year).

How much simpler can it get? ;)

Sean
 
Front ring is 8" and rear ring is 8.875" I believe. IIRC the shafts are 30 spline 1.37"dia. I get 12-13 mpg around town and up to 15 hwy. Thats corrected figures running 315 muds and 4.88 diffs. I removed front DS for about a month and ran it 2wd and didn't get any better mileage.
So far no one has come up with a way to mod the t-case for better gearing, just a $$$ crawler box that requires mods to the gas tank to fit it. A few guys here on MUD have 3-linked the front and I have heard that it is great on the trail but not so stable on the road. Maybe they didn't get the right angles, I don't know. For what I do, I'll stick with the front arms and just make adjustments for castor when I get to my final height of 5"lift.
Personally, I would look for the best running one and forget about whether or not it's locked. That's what I did. Now I have an Aussie in the rear and ARB up front. They only made appx 7% of them with lockers anyway.
Great platform for a family, with very little mods to get started. I ran mine on the Martinez loop open with 285 AT's, no armor and stock diff gears.

Get one, you'll love it.
 
Dude, you know this already....


Super Missile Weld Tig Rod....weld the greaseable spicer caps to the yokes, rinse, repeat. :) On a 44, throw them away when they get so sloppy that there are NO needle bearings in the caps anymore (usually about a year's worth of wheeling 4 plus rated trails at least 26 weekends/year).

How much simpler can it get? ;)

Sean

Ahhh...I thought it may be welding the caps, but I thought if there was something I hadn't heard of yet, I might as well ask ;p
 
Great info on the electric lockers....exactly what I needed to know. For sheer cost, I was contemplating 37" MTRs (or similar radials) w/ locks, Longfields and the stock electric lockers (obviously a gear change to something in the 5+:1 range), but after hearing about the shafts seizing up, I'll definitely go with my original plan of F/R 35 spline D60s and hydro assist.

Also poly rear axles are now available at PP so no problems there with the elockers ....and that's only if you wheel it REALLY hard as Kevin said...I wouldn't worry about the strength of the FF rear.

80 series birfs are much bigger than mini truck birfs...can't find a pic right now
 
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Ahhh...I thought it may be welding the caps, but I thought if there was something I hadn't heard of yet, I might as well ask ;p

Yea, the 25 hp engine probably helps too. Even at 217:1 (or whatever Seans crawl ratio was at when he had the d44's), the engine would stall before he broke axle shafts.
 
Also poly rear axles are now available at PP so no problems there with the elockers ....and that's only if you wheel it REALLY hard as Kevin said...I wouldn't worry about the strength of the FF rear.

While I am not the techno whiz....I do know that Slee Offroad will no longer outfit a truck with 37's and factory e-lockers. He's experienced too much breakage. Enough to turn down the business. He only outfits 37's with ARB diffs. What does this mean to you or me? To me...Slee is the #1 80 guy in the US. I'd take his recommendation on this.
 
Yea, the 25 hp engine probably helps too. Even at 217:1 (or whatever Seans crawl ratio was at when he had the d44's), the engine would stall before he broke axle shafts.
Ha Ha Fawker. :)

It's 116 mighty hamsters and now I'm 265:1 (227:1 then) :lol: .

And wrongo-dongo captain stupid:lol: .....it wouldn't stall before breaking. I know for a fact I can exceed the torque rating on my 60 shafts at will....just depress the stupid pedal and wait for the SNAP! ;)

Just messin' with ya. :)

Sean
 
While I am not the techno whiz....I do know that Slee Offroad will no longer outfit a truck with 37's and factory e-lockers. He's experienced too much breakage. Enough to turn down the business. He only outfits 37's with ARB diffs. What does this mean to you or me? To me...Slee is the #1 80 guy in the US. I'd take his recommendation on this.

I tend to agree.

Sean
 
I tend to agree.

Sean

I don't want to start a war here but I have 2-more cents to share:

I was glad my '93 came with factory lockers. I was looking for a '97 with them too but ended up with an unlocked one instead.

I've had ARB's in my 100 and now also in my '97. Using them on the trail is a huge high-five compared to factory lockers. They engage and disengage ASAP and that makes for a much nicer situation in tight spots. The factory lockers often are a pain to disengage.

So while it's nice to have them in the rig from the factory (again, my preference), if it doesn't work out you can end up with a better setup (my opinion) for the trail with ARB's.
 

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