seam or DOM for cage
- Thread starter slickrock
- Start date
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Yes and you want DOM.
What is the current cage made from?
Do you have someone’s front hoop kit tied to a stock Land Cruiser bar?
Do you have one of the multi-piece SOR cage kits?
There is no point in spending the money for DOM tubing being used as spreaders, if you are tying it into something of inferior integrity.
Further, CREW (Cold Rolled Electric Welded) tubing will be ample for a spreader in most applications.
Why..
- Thread starter
- #5
It is for spreader spreader. One bar against my dash and a few other pieces on my existing cage. Thanks for the info. they have some crew for 2.49 a foot.
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Maybe he's going to enter it in the next Nascar race...
Or it just could be that there has been so much hype over DOM that everyone is now brainwashed.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2004
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- 194
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- 2,929
- Location
- Emporia, KS
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- www.tornadoalleycruisers.org
Here are the numbers:
4130 seamless chromoly
Tensile: 90 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi
DOM 1020
Tensile: 80 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi
HREW 1010
Tensile: 45 ksi
Yield point: 32 ksi
4130 seamless chromoly
Tensile: 90 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi
DOM 1020
Tensile: 80 ksi
Yield point: 70 ksi
HREW 1010
Tensile: 45 ksi
Yield point: 32 ksi
I've read a lot of threads about tubing, and understand the differences between HREW and DOM, but CREW must not be very popular 'cause I've never heard of it.
BTW, I can get 1.75 .120 DOM for 2.90/ft which I think is pretty good.
Ary
BTW, I can get 1.75 .120 DOM for 2.90/ft which I think is pretty good.
Ary
- Thread starter
- #11
My bad for not answering all the question. I was busy at work.
What is the current cage made from?
The cage is part stock and I will strengthen it as best as possible. It has a front hoop made from 2" .120 DOM that I added already, and small 1.25" tube running behind the seats for a 4 point tie in that I want to swap out and move lower.
That also answers the second question. I want to put a spreader above the dash, run a bar from the bottom front foot at an angle up to the A frame at the back of the doors, tie into the frame, cross bars in the halo, Another bar from the rear facing support seam of the original A frame to the bottom of the rear most attaching point, and if possible, add some type of rack for the rear section. For the time and until I can afford a metal tech, I have to use what I got. I really cannot buy a new cage at this time. The stock cage is from a 73 which does not have the clamps holding the rear supports. It is a solid piece.
Thanks again for the response.
- Thread starter
- #13
I didn't know that. When I do the frame tie-in, I'll cut a foot off and measure the wall thickness. Might get lucky and have .125. I thought only the 76+ had the cages with the collars and later with the retaining bolt holding the collar in place. Thanks as always, slickrock.
- Thread starter
- #14
Started looking at metal tech's cage kits. Mine looks a heck of a lot like their OEM replacement that was installed when I got it and then I welded up a front that is the exact same as metal tech's standard front (came in the same pieces). After what you said about not comming this way as OEM, I am guessing that the PO had the kit made from metal tech or someplace very similiar. Unfortunatley, I got the cruiser from a 4x4 shop owner that I did some remodeling for and he got it as a partial trade in for cash and that guy got it from someone else as a trade. Nothing was done to the rig except collect dust from the last guy mention to me. Hard to track down.
Just fyi-
There was not a 40 series bar system that was welded together from the factory...so your current rear hoop is not 'stock'.
smittybuilt had a popular drop in bar, fully welded.
Because it is stronger. I understand many people make cages out of poop pipe and lots of other materials and they are very strong also. I have seen pictures of them after impacts and they do hold up. I don't think DOM is overkill for a roll cage for a wheeling rig, CroMo yes, DOM no. It is what I am going to build my cage from, just really happy I bought lots years ago when it was cheap. Anything has to be better than the paperthin stock bar. Just my .02
Almost bought one of those Smittybuilt ones in the mid 90's, but decided that spacing the jumpseats to fit required too much effort. 
At the time I just added the typical front hoop and spreaders I think from SOR...it was what was available at the time...
Of note, I scrapped the whole thing 18mths ago in favor of the full metaltech profile cage with the frame ties. Positives include the simple fact its a hell of a lot stronger. The factory cage seems like exhaust tubing in comparison. Also with the straight hoop I had to open the door to operate the window and it was awkward getting my fat ass in and out...now w/ the profile the window operation is effortless and my knee doesn't always hit the damn thing.
Do what ever you wish, but to me the profile cage is a lot of bang for the buck!
At the time I just added the typical front hoop and spreaders I think from SOR...it was what was available at the time...Of note, I scrapped the whole thing 18mths ago in favor of the full metaltech profile cage with the frame ties. Positives include the simple fact its a hell of a lot stronger. The factory cage seems like exhaust tubing in comparison. Also with the straight hoop I had to open the door to operate the window and it was awkward getting my fat ass in and out...now w/ the profile the window operation is effortless and my knee doesn't always hit the damn thing.
Do what ever you wish, but to me the profile cage is a lot of bang for the buck!
If you take your reasoning further DOM is a waste when Chromo is available. And then, you might as well reheat treat the entire cage.Because it is stronger. I understand many people make cages out of poop pipe and lots of other materials and they are very strong also. I have seen pictures of them after impacts and they do hold up. I don't think DOM is overkill for a roll cage for a wheeling rig, CroMo yes, DOM no. It is what I am going to build my cage from, just really happy I bought lots years ago when it was cheap. Anything has to be better than the paperthin stock bar. Just my .02
Dom has its place. For most of us, a wheelin cage is going to take one or two rolls.. If you are plannign on more impacts than that, DOM or chromo is the best option.
If not. seames is a perfectly good option.
A typical Wheeler does not NEED dom. And a properly built cage will not be that much safer with DOM. And an improperly built cage is not much safer with dom either..
Is it stronger? yep. Does it start out as HREW?? yep..
a HREW cage with DOM spreaders is not stronger than a HREW cage with HREW spreaders...
- Thread starter
- #20
CREW works for me. Question about cage design... How important, for strength, is the section that would run from the bottom foot of the front A frame at a 45 degree (or so) angle past the seats to meet with the the A frame in the center of the rig?
