Scuff plates (1 Viewer)

[cruiser_guy]

I'm thinking that the only difference between sides is the wire and that if the wiring switches sides (it does on later models) then one would simply put them on "backwards" and on opposite sides and all would be well. Do they actually wrap up the curved part of the door opening?

If I make some up in conjuction with Eric is there an interest in buying these?

 

[n2666s]

yes, very interested, need them also as mine were gone and the weather stripping will be eventually damaged when getting in and out of the truck;

Lou

 

[CandyPants]

I'd be interested in a set. If I don't have to fab them myself, they will no doubt look MUCH better!

 

[LC_Hamma]

I'm sure I can get these made up relatively inexpensively but I'd like to have a set to copy rather than design my own. Any volunteers?

Weren't you goin to fab up some door hinge pins too?
You gonna make them from alum, exactly like stock w/ the driver sides wider center lip? I still think a hardened plastic would be a better choice but it may not be easily formed & more $$$ whereas you could just take some alum. sheet & use a press brake. Some ridges for traction would be a feature

 

[cruiser_guy]

Weren't you goin to fab up some door hinge pins too?
You gonna make them from alum, exactly like stock w/ the driver sides wider center lip? I still think a hardened plastic would be a better choice but it may not be easily formed & more $$$ whereas you could just take some alum. sheet & use a press brake. Some ridges for traction would be a feature

I'm still working on the hinge pins. I need to get a set of '55 hinges from the wreckers first. I can't be having my truck doorless.

The scuff plates would be the same as stock, aluminum and with the appropriate lip for the wiring harness.

If you're interested in scuff plates keep and eye on the '55 forum, there should be a group buy thread in the next month or so and all orders will need to be placed fairly quickly since I plan on shipping in June when I get stateside next.

 

[n2666s]

count me in for two sets of scuff plates.......

Lou

 

[Eric Ellis]

Just a quick reminder...I believe the wiring harness switched sides (driver vs. passenger side) over the years so there may be diffeerent sizes/thicknesses/widths, etc. and who knows what else?

Turns out they switched somwhere between 70 and 75, but they remain consistent (despite the switch) wire side to wire side and non wire to non wire. drill holes are different on wire vs non wire sides but consistent across side switches as well. That being said, I do not know what was happening in later years.

 

[cruiser_guy]

When I make up the scuff plates I will be leaving the drilling of holes to the buyer. That way there will be no need to worry whether or not these plates are installed on a new or old '55.

 

[Lucy_FJ55]

When I make up the scuff plates I will be leaving the drilling of holes to the buyer. That way there will be no need to worry whether or not these plates are installed on a new or old '55.

Now that's a good idea! That will work.


I snapped a couple crappy pics of my 'good' (remaining), installed scuff plate in the trail pig. Hard to tell what's going on, look closely and you should be able to see the end profiles and at least this should help point out what we are all talking about, for those who may never have seen these...

OINK! OINK!

 

[cruiser_guy]

Now does the scuff plate fit to cover both welting AND weatherstrip or does it fit between welting and weatherstrip?

I'd think it fits between welting and weatherstrip but your photos show both.

 

[Trollhole]

75 stock

 

[Eric Ellis]

Now does the scuff plate fit to cover both welting AND weatherstrip or does it fit between welting and weatherstrip?

I'd think it fits between welting and weatherstrip but your photos show both.

As per the photos I sent: There is one photo where I am holding down the W/S. The compound angle and straight sections just have the outer lip of the scuff folding over something like 1/4 inch between the welting and the W/S. So, when you see the pcs, you will see more drop to the floor side than the door side. As shipped the non wire side is excellent overall and you can really see this when you hold the fastening plate section flat on a surface. Or when you double check in your frame.

That remained true to all 8 plates I viewed on both vehicles. As in photos and why the tape measure on some of those shots without the scuff starts at the edge of the welting in or edge of wire/or scuff to just inside the W/S.

I think on the crushed wire side from a top angle it may appear to cover both but that is not the case.

 

[Eric Ellis]

Now does the scuff plate fit to cover both welting AND weatherstrip or does it fit between welting and weatherstrip?

I'd think it fits between welting and weatherstrip but your photos show both.

Just noticed the Lucy shots. They are incorrect. and as you surmise and mine and TrollHole's. No weather strip out means the door seal is not doing its job.

Obvious on the seal and not ment to insult people who know like oh, a thousand times more than me about cruisers.

 

[usmcruiser]

Now does the scuff plate fit to cover both welting AND weatherstrip or does it fit between welting and weatherstrip?

I'd think it fits between welting and weatherstrip but your photos show both.

all of mine on my '76 fit inbetween the weather strip and the door jamb and over the welting.

 

[cruiser_guy]

all of mine on my '76 fit inbetween the weather strip and the door jamb and over the welting.

That's what I thought and that's what makes sense.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I'm going to get some prices on reproducing Eric's scuff plates and we'll post up prices soon. Keep an eye on this thread. The window for getting your orders in and paid for will be very narrow as I hope to bring these up in June.

I'll be getting prices on doing these in aluminum like OEM unless someone has a different idea. I had thought of stainless but with the compound curves that could get a little difficult as stainless is not nearly as malleable as aluminum.

 

[usmcruiser]

I'll be getting prices on doing these in aluminum like OEM unless someone has a different idea. I had thought of stainless but with the compound curves that could get a little difficult as stainless is not nearly as malleable as aluminum.

But IMO that is the problem with aluminum. It's too malleable. That's why we all need new ones.

But then again I'm not the one producing them....so....it's not up to me.

 

[cruiser_guy]

But IMO that is the problem with aluminum. It's too malleable. That's why we all need new ones.

But then again I'm not the one producing them....so....it's not up to me.

Since we are talking about making a run we could ask the cost of making these in stainless if that is what people want.

So, if you want stainless and are prepared to pay for that then they can be made!

 

[Eric Ellis]

Since we are talking about making a run we could ask the cost of making these in stainless if that is what people want.

So, if you want stainless and are prepared to pay for that then they can be made!

If it isn't a problem to inquire...you might find out the difference in material associated production costs. But it is a bit of a toss up: They could be a bit stronger yet, we are looking at scuffs that range from 30 to 40 years old so, they have not held up too badly overall. On my limited experience it seems the most deformed are the wire side which is material and span.

 

[cruiser_guy]

If it isn't a problem to inquire...you might find out the difference in material associated production costs.

Eric, I tapped out a few of the minor dents and bends in the scuff plates before sending them out for pricing. I want to be sure that they know what we're trying to make. I layed your scuff plates in the '76 and they fit just fine. My wiring is on the passenger side.

The material used is a big factor since labor is relatively low. I've asked about stainless and aluminum and I've been told that plain sheet metal is the cheapest. I don't know about the rest but I want aluminum as a minimum, NOT plain sheet metal, and I'm prepared to pay a little premium for stainless if the premium is not too bad.

I'm also told that for aluminum or stainless or any "exotic" metal, I'll be buying the whole sheet whether I use it or not so I'd like to see a lot of response since I don't know what else I'd make from a sheet of aluminum.