Scout Power steering question (1 Viewer)

[Voodoocruisers]

Hi folks, I’m working on completing a restoration that started almost twenty years ago. This rig has a Scout power steering box mounted and the PO did a good job fitting the fender around it. I’m hoping that some of you have the same or similar setups and would be willing to take a few pics of the completed setup so I don’t have to recreate the wheel. Thanks for any help.

 

[GRM]

A scout box mounts very similar to a fj60 or fj80 box. The big difference is it has the splines and hose connections the same as a Saginaw box. That should give you a good idea on how to make it work.

 

[pb4ugo]

I'm currently working on my 2nd scout steering set up. 1st was on my trail 40 done yrs ago. I just clearanced the fender for the box. The 2nd is on my street 40. I purchased new oem Toyota fenders and was reluctant to hack the drivers for the box. I just finished altering it. I'm happy with the results. I have more pics, or you can do an advanced search using my name and "fenders" as a keyword.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Let me know what specific pics you want.

 

[pb4ugo]

I can take more pics also but it would have to be over the weekend. The street 40 is setup a little differently. There's also quite a few more older threads searching scout steering

 

[bikersmurf]

I'm also interested. I've got the parts on the shelf for a Scout II setup with my SBC conversion.

How long is the end of your stock steering shaft? Engine? Measurements for positioning of steering box? Any other mods to your rig? Pictures of your mounting/scab plates on the frame.

@pb4ugo @S4Cruiser

It's not like there is a handbook on the swap, so the more pictures and measurements the better. Thanks. I'd love a guide to Scout II steering conversions for dummies... realizing every setup is different and every mod has compromises.

I've got a Flaming River slip shaft, Scout II to DD U-Joint, DD to DD U-Joint for the end of the end of the steering shaft, Jeep Pittman arm, and a Scout II box.

 

[bikersmurf]

(Delete... Double Post)

 

[69LC]

I have my frame exposed and can take some good up close pics of how I boxed and sleeved mine for my Scout II conversion. I have my box off for a rebuild and to tap it for hydro assist.

Edit: forgive the crud. It’s going to be addressed during my frame off. I’m posting the pics of how I added a back plate and sleeves for the Scout II box on my truck. The outer plate goes all the way to the bumper mount.

 

[Voodoocruisers]

As always thanks for the help. I didn’t know the spines were the same as a Saginaw box. That makes it easier. I used the Saginaw pump with the bracket that mounts to the front head bolts. It fits nicely.

 

[69LC]

When I installed my Scout II box I used the two-bolt rubber flange piece and modded a mini truck intermediate shaft to bolt to that. I didn’t need a special u-joint.

 

[69LC]

When I installed my Scout II box I used the two-bolt rubber flange piece and modded a mini truck intermediate shaft to bolt to that. I didn’t need a special u-joint.

I can take some more pics tomorrow.

 

[69LC]

Sorry for the double post. That was supposed to be an edit.

 

[pb4ugo]

Here's what I did on my trail 40. the box had a 13/16" input shaft. I used a GM coupler which allows for a little slippage frt to back and also allows it to pivot like a U joint too. The steering shaft is dd but is not collapsible. I used an external bearing at the bottom of the steering column. I found the part ref'd somewhere on this site. I scabbed approx 3/4" on the outside of the frame. Adapted the ford shock tower. I removed the raised bosses on the box's mounting flange that were between the flange and frame. I used 7/16" mounting bolts which is what international used. The box is setup about 1/2" closer to the fire wall than my street 40 which will be referenced next. I used 7/16" mounting bolts which is what international used. The U joint at the firewall was from an old Downey steering conversion. The pitman arm is 4" drop for a Wagoneer w/a lift, the 40 has a dana frt end. Most parts are what I had collected and were on the shelf.

 

[pb4ugo]

OK, on the street 40, there were somethings I wanted to change for a cleaner setup. I wanted to use the stk shock tower and wanted to use a different bearing at the bottom of steering column. On this site, using the advanced search function I found a bearing number to use for the bottom of the steering column. It's a wheel bearing for a lawn mower. I went to a local repair shop and they had 1. You'll have to use a flap disc to clean up the bottom column shaft so the bearing will slide on. you'll have to disassemble the column to install. I cut the column shaft at the rag joint flange. I had a old U joint yoke that fit over the female part of the DD steering shaft and the other end of the yoke fit the column shaft. This scout box had a 3/4" input spline, I sourced a small OD diameter U jount from Speedway Motors which was for a dd and 3/4" spline.
I removed the stk shock tower and moved it toward the firewall using the rear rivet hole in the frame is now the front hole of the tower. The upper shock stud was flipped. I had to tweak the lower shock stud up slightly on the axle.

I bolted the shock tower with button head socket cap screws, so the bolts looked like rivets. I had to use a hole saw on my scab plate to gain access for the nuts inside the frame. I had to welds nuts to a long piece thin plate steel and insert it into the frame hole I cut to catch the shock tower bolts. It was sort of tedious to get it bolted on. The PO had installed the 350/NV4500 more to the center of the frame and then he also moved the radiator support to the pass side by about 1 3/4", so the stk fan shroud could be used. This allowed me to adapt the scout box without scabbing the outside of the frame, less grinding on the stk shock tower, and the rad support didn't interfere with the box. I also cut the raised bosses off the mounting flange of the box, which were between the flange and frame which was helpful too. I made a telescoping DD steering shaft out of a couple of YJ j**p shafts. I had to beat them apart 1st, but it was cheap and effective. The pitman arm is from a stk YJ. Things I tried to keep in mind when placing the box was, if I or someone wanted to flip the springs would the box location interfere, also if someone were going to high steer would a non drop pitman arm work. In 1 pic, is the box end to the crossmember center rivet.

 

[pb4ugo]

 

[bikersmurf]

As always thanks for the help. I didn’t know the spines were the same as a Saginaw box. That makes it easier. I used the Saginaw pump with the bracket that mounts to the front head bolts. It fits nicely.

The Scout box is a Saginaw box. It came with two different input shaft sizes. On one of the Scout sites there are instructions on how to measure which input shaft you have using a 12-point box end wrench. I used this technique and it worked perfectly.

The 'Flaming River' U-joint I ordered wouldn't slide on at first... However I quickly realized that it was the schmag in the splines that was preventing it from going on. After wire brushing the splines it was a snug fit... as it should be for steering components.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Some pics of my setup which isn't much different then what's been posted above. Not pictured is the inner frame plate which is just like the outside plate. Last pic is of where I had to clearance the radiator cradle.