school me on septic tank: drain field failed flow test (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 12, 2006
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143
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3,296
Location
7400', central NM
my google-fu is passable, but there's so many adverts out there...


purchasing the place I've lived for almost 10 years. Septic passed visual inspection, was doing fine on flow ?perc? test til about 15m in.

the builder put in a tank large enuf for 5 bed 3 bath, 18yrs ago. I know it hasn't been pumped in 10yrs.

inspector said that the partly frozen ground wouldn't affect flow :confused: and gave me the name of a sister company that does leach fields. I got his data from my bank, so figure he's mostly on the up n up. Haven't called 'em yet: inspector ballparked it at $3500. :eek:

Hints, tips, help??

Commiseration?

I've lived here solo for almost 5 years; washer/dryer not hooked up in 7yrs and I don't put stupid stuff down the pooper.
 
the builder put in a tank large enuf for 5 bed 3 bath, 18yrs ago. I know it hasn't been pumped in 10yrs.

Haven't called 'em yet: inspector ballparked it at $3500. :eek:

Hints, tips, help??

Add a zero on the end of that and thats what mine cost 4 years ago :eek:
 
Did you use York Septic?

They're good and honest.

There are serious septic issues around here. Our current septic system (which was installed about 10 years ago) wouldn't pass the county requirements today--and neither would 90% of the houses in this area. I'm guessing that's your problem--it was installed 18 years ago.

I don't know about the caliche content of your soil, but I know it really screws with the perk tests up here. $3500 sounds cheap compared to what it would cost us if we added a bedroom here (the house is technically a 1 bedroom house).

Dan
 
Dan: thanks for the tip. I used Atlas, per my banks reference. Might call yours for estimate.

No caliche here, but the backhoe did hit bedrock whilst scraping out the site for my casita, which is about 75' NE and 4' higher in elevation. Forgot to say that the main house is 1 bed 1 bath, and the casita is dry. For a year or so 3 of us lived on the property; 2 residents for an intermittant 4 years, then just me and the dogs.

Leach field is at the lowest point of the property, once loamy soil now somewhat packed down by years of 4leggeds, and gets some runoff from the backyard. It's at the beginning of a meadow, with a ridge lifting approx 200' at a 40* slope to the west.

There's a flat property about 3 miles away that a buddy looked at: seller spent $5k on new drain field.
 
Get it pumped and reinspected.

In MO Dept of Natural Resources requires pumping every 3 years.

Your native soils probably are leaning towards the sandy side which are definitely better soils than we have her for perculation, however the lack of maintenace may have clogged your drainfield with particulates.

The comment with respect to frozen ground depends on the soils, water table, and avg. frost depth. On the average, unless you live on a frozen tundra, the frozen ground will not affect perc rates.

Just shop around. The key is the fact that is hasn't been pumped on a regular basis. There are some newer design options out there, search the NM DEQ, or DNR website for septic fields etc...

They can rejuvintate drainfields and reuse the pipes in some states. Most DNR's will work with a homeowner who shows genuine concern about the environment. I've run into numerous powertrip inspectors who use scare tactics, but when you actually do some research you'll find they are expressing their opnion, rather than a code or law. Educate yourself on the issue, show genuine concern, and they will work with you, their goal isn't to fine, it's to clean up the environmental issue.

Also, I'm not sure about NM, but in MO, the size of your property (acres) makes a difference in the septic field requirements. If you have a small tract, effluent dischares can reach the neighbors property, overland, vs larger tracts where the effulent runoff stays on your own property and soaks into the ground on your own property, not necessarily within the bounds of your drainfield.
 
Contact your local small business excavator companies. I paid The Rooter Guys $4500 to install a new drainfield a couple of months ago, but a guy I know said his business would have done it for about $1500. They installed a diverter valve in the main line, so I can switch between the new drainfield and the old one once it has had a year or two to recover. My existing drainfield was saturated, so it needs some time to rest.

It's not rocket science. Are they using EZ Flow or the Dome system?

EZ Flow looks like big bags of packing peanuts with a perforated 4" or 5" pipe running thru the middle. The 8' sections just snap together. Once it's all down, they just lay some paper over the top of the EZ Flow to keep dirt out of the peanuts.

The dome system is basically just 2' half culverts made of plastic and are about 4' long. The ends just snap together as well. This system simply sits in the excavated trench. It has perforations in the sides to allow air infiltration.

Either way, your grey water from the septic tank simply flows into the leachfield via gravity and infiltrates the soil. Your soil type (determined by perc test) will tell you how much ft^2 of leachfield you need. More clay = better filtration, but also requires more ft^2 of leachfield.

The hardest thing is getting the trenches sloped properly, but a good excavator operator can get it damn close. You need to find out from your Health District (via permit) what sq footage of drainfield you need.

Just call your local septic tank places to see what they have in stock (EZ Flow or Dome) and go from there.

Hope that helps. :cheers:

edit: Frozen soils aren't an issue, because drainfields are approx 3-5' below the surface.
 
Is the leach field level? If the drain field is steep it will back up. You might get off cheap, if you can just add another stage to your leach system off of a distribution box.
 
existing leach field has about a 2' drop in elevation, tho I'm not sure where the d box is: under 4-6" snow currently.

2 forested uphill acres: due to slope/shape of property, d field is approx 15' from the county maintained asphalt road, based on vegitation growth. Can see downstream neighbor's leachfield about 150' away (and he lives in a travel trailer: put it in last year to try and sell his place).

I do believe in using local talent, and will get a second (not sister co) opinion. Inspector came in a partly full rig, b/c the test requires max fill for perk: mine passed visual, about 8-10" below lid, but didn't pass perk after about 20m of water flowing. Landlord n I both leaning towards pumping now, testing again later.

Will keep you posted, and thanks for all your input. :cheers:
 
CJ, I had to do more or less what bigndn did when we built the house. We were lucky in the original tank was big enough to satisfy the lenders, but the leach field failed inspection. You should have a 12x12 J-box not too far away from the outlet side of the tank.
Long story short, I rented a backhoe from a buddy, odered 2 transfer loads of 5/8 rock, perferated 4"pvc pipe and ran 2-50'x6' runs of new leach lines. Tapped it into the J-box and had it certified by the local company who pumped my tank. County codes inspector was cool with the deal so, depending on where you live and who you know, may not cost ya a fortune..:meh:
 
^ I'm hoping that a pump n rest will help, as our MO friend suggests above. Estate closes in Jan, so there's some hurry-up.

Trying to figure out what the rules are sux, since BernCo is separate from NM. (took me 3 hrs to figure that out). While I know some Directors by name, the poop dude aint onea them.... not that I have figured out who's in charge of that yet. :bang: And my check comes from BC: best wishes for those making their way through the system.

edit: and it's not like this is all happening on easy-to-read soil. 6" snow in the shadows, 2-4" otherwise. Sun-of-a-biskit!!!
 
Does your local health dept approve EcoFlo or BioFilter systems? I was going to use one of these for a new installation till we discoverd the inspector would approve a conventional drainage system on the lot. But these two alternatives (specially the BioFilter set-up) are - from what I learned - very appealing alternatives ...if approved
 
let's see some pics Siren!
 
I had the same issue when I first moved in. Turns out the PO used chlorine to improve the taste of the well water; killing the bacteria in the septic/leach field. Call H & H Septic and Backhoe (505) 898-1707 in Corrales. He rebuilt my leach field. Tell him Andrew down on Dixon Rd in Corrales sent you. He should remember me. I am having a brain fart but I think his name was Art. His equipment looks old and ragged but he knows his stuff. Art(?) redid my leachfield back in 2001 and no problems since. FYI: Atlas is good for pumping the septic, thats it.
 
Depending on the type of system you might have a flow adjustment valve on each lateral. The original system drawings might still be on file at your county office. Wfd175 knows his s***...
 
Does your local health dept approve EcoFlo or BioFilter systems? I was going to use one of these for a new installation till we discoverd the inspector would approve a conventional drainage system on the lot. But these two alternatives (specially the BioFilter set-up) are - from what I learned - very appealing alternatives ...if approved


...but not cheap. I've gotten a few prices on my ecoflo system and they range from $20k to $27k :eek:
 
yea, county office is my next vist, once I figure out where to start; what w/ $5/hr parking. (i know, rube-ville)

County id securely affixed, box 'o bagels in hand, just waiting for the right desk to land upon.... this is one time I'll push the boundries. (sez Mr Goodwrench)


Ali: r u onea dos poop-a-philes? :flipoff2:



pix not part of the plan: just imagine a fudge-looking layer of quicksand. :blerph:
 
Linking this thread to HDC worked wonders:

short version -- retest w/another vendor the week after New Years, and a verbal quote for $2300 from 1st vendors referral.

2nd vendor was much more professional, personable, and cost-effective. Lesson learned: ask the locals for a reference, don't listen to the bank.

Oh, and get yr tanks pumped; not as often as we change the oil, but just as important. :doh:


Best'est part: found a dude who can do the estate appraisal for Z, will charge me X for a re-appraisal later this year, and will charge small monies to hunt down the well n septic permits. :clap:
 
.but not cheap. I've gotten a few prices on my ecoflo system and they range from $20k to $27k :eek:

Was quoted $14k for an EcoFlo (about the same for the BioFilter version) system suitable for a 3+1 Bedroom with 3 Bathrooms.

Pricey I guess but the standard septic bed was about $11,000 when finished. Of the two I would lean towards the BioFilter if only cause they are claiming that the little blocks of foam are good for 20 plus years ... the peat moss in the EcoFlo does need to be replaced periodically ...

The up side is they will go where insufficient room exists for a standard bed AND they are apparently VERY effective ... and becoming code in some "fragile ecosystems"
 
Was quoted $14k for an EcoFlo (about the same for the BioFilter version) system suitable for a 3+1 Bedroom with 3 Bathrooms.

Pricey I guess but the standard septic bed was about $11,000 when finished. Of the two I would lean towards the BioFilter if only cause they are claiming that the little blocks of foam are good for 20 plus years ... the peat moss in the EcoFlo does need to be replaced periodically ...

The up side is they will go where insufficient room exists for a standard bed AND they are apparently VERY effective ... and becoming code in some "fragile ecosystems"


I know this thread is old but did you buy this system? If you did I would like very much to talk to you. I own one and am looking to find out what you may have been told about the system when you bought it if you did. Thank you
 
Sorry for the delay responding ... no I did not go with the EcoFlo or the Biofilter ... I went with a standard septic bed at my cottage. So far it has been fine -- but I had to replace the pump that lifted the effluent up into the bed as it seized (may have been seized when initially installed for all I know as the contractor delayed installing it for some reason while I was finishing other construction - I suspect he may have thrown a bad pump in just to have a cord exiting the and keep me from calling him every week.
 

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