Problem using a battery charger for a 12 volt DC to test car audio? (2 Viewers)

[Living in the Past]

I have collected a bunch of Toyota Audio head units, CD players, cassette players and amplifiers. I currently use a power system rated at 2.5 amp output. Almost all of my systems are are premium with external amplifiers. Systems from late nineties early two thousands from 4Runners and Camrys work on low volume without tripping the overload. But I have a few later larger amplifiers as well as sub woofer with it's own amplifier I pulled out of 3rd gen 4Runner. Obviously for those need something larger. I have multiple battery chargers. One being electronic with 2/6/10amp settings. Another old school Sears with a charge and start setting. Believe that one is 10 amp charge, 50 amp start. Any reason not use a battery charger or should I use a dedicated power system?

 

[e9999]

I don't know much about audio power systems, but it seems to me that if you are that seriously into that kind of tech, a decent bench power supply with full control of both current and voltage may be a good investment - some are quite inexpensive. Battery chargers have their own algorithms with variable voltage (if smart) or -if an old transformer style- with no control at all. (And maybe plenty of unwanted buzzing.) If you must use a battery charger, I would think it may be a good idea to use a battery as buffer. Or do you have a DC-DC charger that has a constant voltage feature?

(btw, you may have better luck in other forums for this kind of question)

 

[KLF]

I would be worried that a battery charger would run at too high a voltage and damage the head units. Put a spare battery in the system as a buffer and it should be fine. I have an old spare battery under my bench in the garage, connected up to a simple brick trickle charger on a timer so it only runs 2 hours a day. I use it to power a spare ham radio when I'm out working in the garage and want to hear the chatter, works great.

 

[PIP]

A decent adjustable bench power supply costs less than a battery. I would recommend buying one.

I have a super nice old 5 amp lab grade 2 channel adjustable power supply I use for 99% of things and I a 20 amp fixed 13.8V power supply I use when more pixies are needed.

 

[e9999]

I have a gigantic old lab power supply that can do something like 2x 5A or so. Must have cost in the thousands when new, 30 or 40 years ago. It's a major hernia risk to move around.
Then I bought a few years back a generic chinese little solid state 30V max 10A max that weighs the same as a bag of cookies and is about the same size. The displays are pretty accurate, no noticeable circuit noise. Cost something like $75 IIRC. Use it all the time for charging various batteries and for various electronics projects. Good buy so far. Something to be said for the electronics revolution...
I think an adjustable power supply like that is very useful to have around. I particularly like to be able to limit the current, saved me several times from uncertainty (or more likely recklessness)....

 

[Living in the Past]

Remember the electronic battery charger checked the condition of the battery before it starts charging that would have required charging a battery in parallel to the amplifier. Decided you just picked up a power supply. Simple one. 50 amp 600 watt with adjustable output. Working great. Amp runs a lot cooler than my old 2.5 amp unit from Radio Shack I probably bought around fifty years ago. Probably used have checked the voltage. Wasn't tripping the circuit breaker but guessing had a voltage drop.

I picked up a small fan that the switch also controls a 115 outlet. Since the power supply was vary basic it didn't have a plug or switch so the can not only cools the amplifier it also controls the power supply.

Thanks for the help, I going to stick a fork in this project.