School me: 24v trucks in the USA

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woytovich

woytovich

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I'm on the hunt for a 70 series from Europe (that'll be 24v right?).

Given that US automotive electronics (including winches) are typically 12v what are the "best" paths to using electrical equipment in a 24v truck?

Converter?
24v equipment?

Radio
Winch
Aux lights
etc

TIA,
Mark
 
Don't know ANYTHING about USA, but I do know a lot about 24V trucks and Canada. All of my Land Cruisers (42, 61, 70, 79, and 4x 74's) are 24V.

Long story short... buy a Vanner Battery equalizer (watch ebay for a deal on a 50-100amp unit). Center tap your batteries for all your 12V needs. If you daily drive the truck, this is fine. If the truck sits for a few weeks, then install relays/solenoids to disconnect the Vanner equalizer when the ignition is off (these units have a micro draw all the time)

Short story long....
Almost every accessory you could need is available in 24V. Here's a list of things I have or have had in 24V.
Winches
Fridges
Headlights
relays & Solenoids
Accessory lights/fog lights/driving lights/light bars
inverter
air compressors
AM/FM Radio
Even a water pump for an on-board shower.
Guages - Dakota digital will do full 24V dashboards these days.

Here's a few secrets:
Many things that charge on USB (USE charges at 5V), like a Garmin GPS, come with cigarette lighter plug adapter... check the voltage on those... they are often good for 12-24 volts, like my Garmin does. Lots of other gadgets that run on 5V internally, use a common voltage regulator that takes up to 36V and makes 5V for little computer bits. I just bought a battery monitor device that will run on 24V. THis is opening up the world of gadgets that work on 24V trucks.
Many LED lights accept input voltages up to 24V.
A 12V 8274 winch will run just fine on 12V. They are FAST though, like "make your winch wench an amputee" fast. You've been warned.

Here's what's hard to find in 24V.
-Any modern-ish radio/head unit and corresponding amplifiers/sound gear, back-up cameras, dash cams, etc. There are a handful of 24v head units out there, and even a few 24V amplifiers, but they just aren't keeping up. When I installed a 12V unit into my HJ61, I had into insall a relay between my 24V back-up light signal to convert that to 12V to trigger the back-up camera....
-There is no afternarket 24V cruise control systems that I can find.
-aftermarket power control modules. (Those things that replace fuses and relays with mosfets and computers) A frined pointed me to one made for the marine industry once, but that's the only one I've ever seen.
-The good Ham equipment (Yaseu 8900 for example) is 12V only. If anyone knows of a quality 24V ham base station, let me know.

Here's what I know nothing about..
-Engine computers. How would you convert an LS motor to 24V. Is that R2.8 Cummins available in 24V? hmmm...
 
What in a 24 volt vehicle requires those 24 volts? In other words could you swap out light bulbs and other things to run off 12 volt and only feed 24 volts to the things that require it?
 
It would be easier to source a 24 volt winch if that's your main concern. I'm sure there are plenty of them outside the US. I also believe Warn make a 24 volt winch.
Having half the vehicle on 24v and half on 12v sounds like a confusing disaster. Yes I know about the 80 series but Toyota worked that one out.
Excavators have 24 volt AM/FM radios with MP3 (no cd player because of the dust).

I once asked an auto electrician about 24 volt and he said there was anything that he couldn't fix or overcome.
 
Last edited:
Back to my other question though, what on a 24 volt truck requires 24 volts?
The starter
Glow plugs if it's diesel?
Sensors and gauges?

it sounds like The Equalizer you mentioned above is doing just that running some of the truck on 24 and some of it on 12...
 
Yes, 24v starter, alternator, hvac fan, ac compressor clutch, wipers, turn flashers and so on.
Glow plugs or intake heater 24v.

Also, 24v system can use thinner wire as higher voltage travels better over distance.
 
The acccesories can get complicated.

I've got 24v fog lights, back up lights and LED light bar. The arb fridge and Compressor both run on 24v. I've got a blue sea dual USB charger also on 24.

My Harrop elockers want 12v, as does the stereo, hella map lights, 12v plug for Garmin and cb and ham radios.

I still need to figure out if I want to spend the time to sort out the 24-12 v 7pin trailer harness.

IMG_0918.webp
 
My 86 HJ60 was 24v but headlights were 12v.

My 91 LJ77 from Spain is 12v.

If you are looking at a later 70 series, they may be 12v.
 
Come Up has a nice 24v winch. I'm running all accessories other than the winch from a 12v lithium battery on my 24v troopy.
 
umpqua said:
Come Up has a nice 24v winch. I'm running all accessories other than the winch from a 12v lithium battery on my 24v troopy.
Click to expand...

How are you charging the 2 systems?
 
It hasn't been an issue for me. A simple converter works the radio, the phone charges just fine on 24. Headlights are regular 12 volt. There is some extra cost when it comes time to buy new batteries and you need to be careful about wiring...you cant just tap power off of a battery willy nilly like you do with 12 volt...but its largely a non issue. Most alternator repair shops are very familiar with 24 volt and can work on and rebuild your starter and alternator once a decade if that is a big fear.
 
Yes, left hand drive is important to me.
This thread is about finding the "best" plan for dealing with 24v.
 
woytovich said:
How are you charging the 2 systems?
Click to expand...

Bad way:
Have a 3rd battery for 12V accessories. Wire it in parallel to your starting 12V battery, but isolate it with a battery isolator. It will charge with your 12V starting battery, but your 12V and 24V batteries will quickly become unbalanced. Not recommended

Better way:
Same as above (3rd battery with Isolator), but use a battery equalizer between your 12v and 24V starting batteries. This is what I do, and it works ok. But, my 3rd battery is an AGM, and it never really charges, because AGM's want really high voltage to charge properly, and you just can't get that from an equalizer.

Hint... some isolators have a override option... with this set-up, you can back-feed from your house battery, through the equalizer, to help your starting batteries if they've gone dead for some reason. Shaker has started his truck this way on at least one occassion.

Best Way: buy a DC to DC charger, like this top of the line Redarc, but other brands are available. The Redarc in particular, will take 24V from your truck, and both isolate and properly charge and maintain a 3rd 12V battery, including AGM's. This is the right and proper way to have a 3rd battery. Run all your 12V accessories off this battery. If you add two 24V solendoids you can have continupus, switched 'Accessory' and 'run' 12V power.

Yet Another clever way: Awlteq used some spare room on his 3B engine to install a 12V alternator dedicated to charging his 12V 3rd batteries.
 
woytovich said:
How are you charging the 2 systems?
Click to expand...
Rodney has a separate 12v alternator. The 'best' plan with dealing with 24v is running 24v. It's more efficient and safer. IF you have specific 12v needs than a separate 12v charging system or DC Redarc style chargers are the only long term solution. 24v stuff is readily available and a lot of "overlanding" accessories have a 24v option.
 
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