Scary steering 2021 Cruiser (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I had a small lift done with the same results as yours and the solution that I found was to remove the lift and go back to original. I was tempted to try an adjustable pan hard but decided to cut my losses.

One possible solution, but there are many of us here and around the world with lifts that don't have this issue, so it is solvable without removing the lift.

 

[redeye]

Yeah, I'm not removing the lift. The stock suspension is way too soft for my liking.

 

[bloc]

@bloc I did buy 1 new bolt. There are 2 long ones and 1 short. I bought the short one, so the missing long bolt + the new short bolt will be installed. I also just ordered a new drivers side tie rod end and a couple more nuts for those steering rack bolts. I remember it driving SO much better than stock after the lift was installed. It wasn't until after I put the front bumper on (when I removed that bolt) that things started to feel strange. So I strongly suspect the truck will feel leaps and bounds better once all necessary hardware is reinstalled.

I’d still suggest replacing any of the bolts that were installed while the rack was shifting around. That movement could have put bending forces on them that they weren’t designed for.

Again not that I think this is particularly likely to lead to failure, just out of an abundance of caution and acknowledging how critical these things remaining tight and in place is to your truck staying on the road.

 

[Capital E]

After installing my 2.5" OME lift and adjustable UCA's I had to get two alignments done. And this was a shop with lots of LC alignment experience. Turns out the guy that usually does the Land Cruiser's was off the day I went in. Second time it was perfect. I think the adjustable upper control arms can be a little tough for your average alignment tech. I think you have an alignment issue.

 

[CharlieS]

I think the adjustable upper control arms can be a little tough for your average alignment tech. I think you have an alignment issue.

This is the main reason I went with Dobinsons non-adjustable version (#2 the bushings and #3 quality replaceable ball joints). Not a lot of good alignment shops in my area, and even fewer that work on modified vehicles.

 

[redeye]

I’d still suggest replacing any of the bolts that were installed while the rack was shifting around. That movement could have put bending forces on them that they weren’t designed for.

Again not that I think this is particularly likely to lead to failure, just out of an abundance of caution and acknowledging how critical these things remaining tight and in place is to your truck staying on the road.

I am now going to follow this course of being extra cautious, especially given that I uncharacteristically threw caution to the wind.

Extra bolts, washers, and nuts have been ordered. I'll install new hardware for the entire rack.

If the truck is still wandering or acting strangely I'll take it for another alignment. I may even go so far as to take it to a place like Mainline Overland out in PA (~90 minutes from me). They evidently work on Cruisers all the time.

 

[Jmivorm]

My cruiser had torque steer pretty bad when it was new. Someone posted some alignment suggestions here and I took those to my shop and told them that was what I wanted, not what the book said. Its been dead solid since. I cant remember who posted them but they knew their stuff.

 

[redeye]

I got the replacement nut and washer for the rack yesterday and thankfully was able to reinstall it and torque it down to the proper 89 ft lb as shown in the FSM. Actually I had followed linuxgod's posts to setup my own webserver at home for the 200 series FSM so that was helpful. I had never tried to get my truck into my garage as it seemed too large to fit but I squeezed it in there.

To absolutely no one's surprise, the truck feels far more stable. Did not notice any of the torque steer. Duh. LOL

I have scheduled an appointment at Mainline Overland in West Chester PA in 2 weeks. The shop is about 1 hr 15 minutes from me but they deal with lifted trucks all the time and will probably be my best bet to get a proper alignment. And oddly, it seems my driver's side tie rod is leaking. I've bought a new OEM one and will get their opinion on it as well. Seems weird on a truck with only 10k miles but maybe my idiot move with the steering rack had other consequences.

 

[Heckraiser]

Do you have the printout from the last time it was aligned? Aside from the steering rack issue, sounds a lot like they failed to dial in enough caster when they put in the UCAs. When you take it back in for an alignment, post up your sheet here.

 

[redeye]

I'll have to look for that print out. I do not recall seeing one though. I may have shoved it in the glove box and will check later.

I have a trip to Jay Peak VT in March (~400 mile drive) so this all needs to be sorted before then. I'm confident it will be.

The other thing I'd love to do without is my wheel spacers. When I'm at Mainline I may ask them what wheel offset I'd need in aftermarket wheels to allow me to get the "look" I want w/o using the spacers. I believe the number is 28mm offset to get me the 1.25" that the current Spidertrax spacers provide.

 

[CharlieS]

If you don't get it sorted before your VT trip, check out the Twisted Wrench near the airport in South Burlington - I use them for my alignments and they are great. The 4x4Center across the street from them has them do all of their alignments so they get lots of practice on lifted and modified vehicles.

If I remember correctly, it is ~30mm offset to end up with an outcome similar to a 1.25" spidertrax spacer. (60-31.75=28.25) I went with 40mm offset Evo Corse Dakars - which puts me 11.75mm (less than a 1/2") different from what I have now with stock offset rims and spacers. A lot of the aftermarket come in 0 or 25mm offsets.

 

[redeye]

If you don't get it sorted before your VT trip, check out the Twisted Wrench near the airport in South Burlington - I use them for my alignments and they are great. The 4x4Center across the street from them has them do all of their alignments so they get lots of practice on lifted and modified vehicles.

If I remember correctly, it is ~30mm offset to end up with an outcome similar to a 1.25" spidertrax spacer. (60-31.75=28.25) I went with 40mm offset Evo Corse Dakars - which puts me 11.75mm (less than a 1/2") different from what I have now with stock rims and spacers. A lot of the aftermarket come in 0 or 25mm offsets.

Thanks @CharlieS. Funny, I was looking at those same wheels. Mainline Overland sells them. I appreciate the info on the offset. I might spring for new wheels if they'll fit on my BFG tires. I do love the matte bronze BBS wheels on my truck but would prefer not to run spacers.

 

[linuxgod]

I'll have to look for that print out. I do not recall seeing one though. I may have shoved it in the glove box and will check later.

I have a trip to Jay Peak VT in March (~400 mile drive) so this all needs to be sorted before then. I'm confident it will be.

The other thing I'd love to do without is my wheel spacers. When I'm at Mainline I may ask them what wheel offset I'd need in aftermarket wheels to allow me to get the "look" I want w/o using the spacers. I believe the number is 28mm offset to get me the 1.25" that the current Spidertrax spacers provide.

You're correct.

I think +35 offset is ideal suspension geometry for 35" tires

I run +25 offset Icon wheels. I think anything from +18 to +35 will give you sufficient UCA clearance. Lower offset will give you more KDSS arm clearance but will require more trimming of the fender liner and creates more risk of scrubbing a fender depending on your tire width

 

[redeye]

Looks like the truck is going to need a visit to my local dealer. Everything was running fine after I reinstalled the missing bolt, but now I've noticed a rather loud "clunking" type noise when turning the wheel side to side, even while the truck is stationary. Heck, it even makes a little noise when stepping up into the truck. No fluid leaks, and no rubbing, and the noise seems to emanate from the steering rack general area. I may put the front up on jackstands to take the weight off, turning wheels side to side and see if the noise changes. Just for craps and giggles until I can get it scheduled at the dealer. Maybe I did prematurely kill the rack after all.