Scale RC/ RC crawlers (1 Viewer)

[roadstr6]

I assumed that your motor was a brushed motor. Brushless are primarily for faster machines. Being a crawler, it's probably brushed. Do you know the turn count? Most folks use 45 or higher for true competition crawlers. Our crawlers are set up for crawling and bashing so I like to use lower turn brushed motors for more wheel speed. Our AX10 has a 27t and I run a Traxxas Titan 21t 550 in the Wraith and SCX10. We do run a brushless VXL motor in our EXO-terra because it sees mostly track duty. It'll run 50mph easy. Agreed on the LIPO cutoff. That's most likely your problem. I would not try to do anything else with those batteries until you charge them up. You can pull the voltage down on a LIPO to the point that it won't charge anymore. Always disconnect the batteries when storing the crawler. All it takes is a miniscule short somewhere to pull the battery down to the point of no return.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I assumed it was a brushless motor, but maybe it does have brushes. I have no clue how many turns it has. I'll take a closer look at it later to see if I can tell.

 

[SeanLX]

I assumed it was a brushless motor, but maybe it does have brushes. I have no clue how many turns it has. I'll take a closer look at it later to see if I can tell.

Yep, it's got brushes, I can see where they go in the picture. (they connect to the braided wire)

Hey, I do remember a few things from 20+ years ago.

...but I've got a lot of catching up to do and I have a feeling if I keep reading this thread it's going to cost me some money.

 

[CharlestonG8R]

Yep, it's got brushes, I can see where they go in the picture. (they connect to the braided wire)

Hey, I do remember a few things from 20+ years ago.

...but I've got a lot of catching up to do and I have a feeling if I keep reading this thread it's going to cost me some money.

Yep, me too! Johnny, I haven't bought the CR01… I thought it would be cool to build an FJ40 RC Car. I could probably use most of my old Futaba electronics (servos, receiver, controllers…) but it looks like it would need a different ESC.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Charger came in the mail today so I charged up the batteries and plugged it in. Verified that the ESC low voltage cutoff was not kicking in by measuring the voltage output of the ESC with a multimeter. Attempted to clean the old motor's contacts, to no avail. Went and picked up these motors (55 turn and 35 turn) from Tower 18 Hobbies in Cary today. I decided to install the 55t motor, verified that the motor worked with the esc and put everything back together!! I'm in the game!! The driveshafts only came apart 3 times on the "shakedown run"

Thanks to all the help everyone Now to learn how this fancy radio works

 

[jfz80]

Yup. Looks like time for upgrades .

I forsee a front dig setup coming soon

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yup. Looks like time for upgrades .

I forsee a front dig setup coming soon

No doubt. Thanks for letting me bounce some ideas off of you earlier today!

 

[roadstr6]

Johnny,

Driveshafts are a big problem with the AX10. When you put them in a bind the ears snap off of the u-joints. Here's a super cheap and effective fix: Go buy a couple (or three) sets of Traxxas Stampede shafts. The metal yokes from the axial shafts will mount right up. The 'Pede shafts are much stronger. I have actually pretzeled a couple of shafts and the ears did not pop off. The fix for pretzeling is to find a piece of threaded rod that is a tight fit into the hollow male side of the 'Pede rod and thread it in then trim off the excess which makes the male side solid and strengthens it tenfold.

I suspect your issues with shafts coming apart is due to the aftermarket chassis and links (extended wheelbase) and mega flex. You probably need longer shafts. In that case, use the 'Pede shafts but use three sections for each shaft, two males on either end and a female in the center for the slip joint. Essentially, you will have one normal male side and the other side will consist of a cut-down male end with a female section slid over the stubby male end. Drill and pin the female end to the stubby male end with a roll pin or piece of solid wire. Glue this end also just to prevent the female end from sliding down. Does this make sense?

One last suggestion and I will quit. Upgrade the tires to something else...anything else. Those OEM Proline hammers are too hard. I like the Hot Bodies Sedona white dots or Rover white dots. There are other good ones as well. Drill a tiny hole in each rim to vent the foams and add stick-on automotive weights to the rims before you put the tires back on.

Congrats on getting the crawler up and running. Have fun!

 

[jfz80]

Haha those tires are anything but hard. I think it was the traction coeefficiency of cotton that was getting him on that climb

im not sure what foams he has in there but those are some super sticky panthers I had around. Alex called them cheating. Also def add some weights to the front wheels as it looks like they were lifting to easily. Great recommendation on the driveshafts too

But agree rovers or sedonas rock

 

[jfz80]

No problem and sorry I couldn't be more help. Looks like I'm going to have to dust off the rig and te familiarize myself with the hobby.

Looking at page one now I'm not sure those are the panthers after all. Can't really remember what went where in my flipping frenzy

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Your driveshaft advice makes sense, but I think I've already got upgraded shafts. They have metal yokes and CV joints instead of universal joints. My problem was only that the set screws were not tight enough on the transmission output shafts and axle pinions, so they slid off of the mounting points. I need to drill through the transmission outputs and pinion to be able to use the set pins (that go all the way through) as opposed to the little set screws.

No clue on the tires, but they're wicked soft. Not hard at all. I should put vents and weights in them though, damn good idea.

 

[roadstr6]

Those don't look like Panthers to me but what do I know? I'm a Sedona guy. FWIW, shafts look stock to me as well (when I said U-joint in my post before, I meant to say CV). Run the shafts you got and see how they do. If they are stockers, you'll find out pretty quick.

 

[roadstr6]

I digress. Those look like the factory Wild Boar shafts from an SCX10 or a Wraith. If so, you're good. Those shafts are a big improvement over the AX10's

 

[Rice]

I really was hoping to see a full speed run at the first pillow and stick the landing in the Christmas tree.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I really was hoping to see a full speed run at the first pillow and stick the landing in the Christmas tree.

Hahahahahahahhaaha! I need to put the 35t or a 27t motor in to attempt that!

 

[Rice]

I really was hoping to see a full speed run at the first pillow and stick the landing in the Christmas tree.

Hahahahahahahhaaha! I need to put the 35t or a 27t motor in to attempt that!

 

[roadstr6]

X2!

I really was hoping to see a full speed run at the first pillow and stick the landing in the Christmas tree.

 

[uzj100]

We need more pictures.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got some more time behind the remote this weekend. Stupid driveshafts keep popping off of the pinions.

I attempted to drill little dimples into the pinions to fix it, but was unsuccessful. Either my bit was too dull or the pinion is too hard. Going to try it with a file next.

I've been apprehensive to take pics because my phone's camera is degrading quickly. I'll try to get some better pics and put them up

 

[jfz80]