SBC with NV4500 installation questions (1 Viewer)

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nocents

nocents

Joined
Oct 27, 2003
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I am getting set to install my SBC (Ramjet 350!) mated to a NV4500 into my FJ40 total rebuild project. The SBC is running a serpentine belt kit, I'd like to run an electric fan. I read Jack Rice's stuff in the Tech sections (THANKS JACK!! a great write-up and lots of help), but I still have a few questions.

Note: I am using AA mounts and adapters. The body is off the frame

Using Jack's suggestion I laid-out the drive train with the engine mounts 9 1/2 inches back from the rear of the front shock mounts. This gives me about 5 inches between the front on the water pump pulley and the radiator. Is this enough room for an electric fan. I see that they average about 4 1/2 thick. It should fit but would be tight.

For the Transfer case mount the clearance to the "tube crossmember" looks to be very close. Do I need to cut and move the crossmember?

Also what height do you use for the top of the frame mounts. I was looking at level with the top of the frame. I have a shackle reversal plus 2 1/2 inch lift on the front and 4 inch lift on the back.

Thanks
Nocents
 
You want close to stock clearance between the tube X-member and the back of the t-case. If it is not there, doing any work to the p-brake or speedo housing is a MAJOR PITA.
 
ANYONE !!!

Nocents
 
You'd be doing yourself a favor putting an electric fan in. I know Woody had done something along the lines of an Electric fan (with temp switch???)...as well as others here.

I would say the amount of room you have is plenty.

And as Bailey has said, if you tinker with the case mount at all, be sure to maintain as close to stock "access" as possible. You WILL be working on it with a SBC and the 4500.
 
Good luck. I'm plannin the same swap this winter (maybe). Actually just the nv4500, I've already got the sbc. Gotta get a few more parts.

My black magic electric 2850cfm fan is 4" thick.
 
i have downey motor mounts and the frame welded side is about 1/2" of top of the frame, each of the times i have done it.

I was looking at level with the top of the frame. I have a shackle reversal plus 2 1/2 inch lift on the front and 4 inch lift on the back.
PLEASE EXPLAIN?


you need to run about 3 to 5 degree slope in the driveline.

toreass fan is about 4.5",

it is pretty easy to push the radiator forward for more clearence if needed to do so cause of rear PBrake issues, or just for overall driveshaft length and fit.
 
The reason I mentioned the shackle reversal and lift was so that everyone could get an idea of the suspension travel etc. I wanted to mount the motor as low as practical. The slope measurement will help determine engin position too.
 
i just picked up a Taurus fan for $10 bucks at the junkyard.. its pretty thin.. 3 inch or so.. and is suposed to cool very well.. time will tell.. i belive there is info in the tech section on them, or search the net for taurus fan.. they came in the 3.8 V6 fords
 
Got you on the lift stuff. you could go two routes, up high you might be able to come close to a flat bottom, down low you will hang out and make sure you bump stop to not introduce diff to oil pan. Personally, i am not exactly sure how long your driveline length is and the vehicles intended use, but i lean more towards flat bottom. I am within 2" i think of a flat bottom, but this one sees the road.


This is a toreass fan (taurus) fan
http://www.broncoii4x4.com/taurusfan/taurus_electric_fan.php please note it runs about 4.5" deep. GRAB the fuse and holder that is in the wiring for the fan, it works great.

ANY thing less i think your looking at a tempo or escort style

the mark viii fan runs deeper!

dual fans from a countor (sp) appear to be slimmer and are suppose to be good also.

need help or info on this let me know, i got a good amount of stuff as i did the toreass fan.
 
HI^C
Thanks for the info. on fans. What does "flat bottom" mean?

Nocents
 
i have tons more info on that fan if and when you might need it. just let me know.


flat bottom, no driveline hangs below the bottom of the framerails. reduces chances of high centering, damage to driveline parts, etc.... IDEAL on long wheelbase rigs, also on smaller tire rigs. close to flat bottom as you can get IMO, the whole anchoring the vehicle with the transfercase on a rock, just doesnt sound that fun. skid it!
 
Anyone installed a NV4500 without cutting the tube crossmember??

Nocents
 
can you run a tape and give me some measurements?

bell housing, trans, trans to transfer adapter> each one measured alone?
 
nocents said:
Anyone installed a NV4500 without cutting the tube crossmember??

Nocents
Click to expand...

Yes, and working on the p-brake is not a hassle. My transfer case (and thus driveshafts) are in stock location, the shifter for the tranny is using the original hole, and the engine is mounted forward by the additional length of the tranny and adapter. I did moved the radiator up 1 inch and I do run a short water pump which may not be an option in your case.

I'm not a "fan" of electric fans ... a well placed, well pitched, and shrouded thermal clutch fan will out-cool anything electric.
CV-joint.jpg
 
HI^C
Here is what I have for lengths From center of front motor mount to bell housing 16"
Bell housing 6 1/4 " Transmission 12 5/8 '' Adapter 5 7/8 " T case 5" (from adapter surface to where T case mounting bracket face) & then I need 3" for T case mounting bracket.

I started from Jack Rice's set-up with the front of the forward mortor mount bracket 9 1/2 " aft of the back of the front shock mount. This puts the center of the frount motor mount 11 1/2 " from the back of the front shock mount. I get 57 1/4 " from back of front shock mount to end of the T case bracket.

My "tape" says it will just squeeze in. I need to bolt everything together and test. I was hoping to make sure I was all set as I have to "impose" on friends to help with the welding. I don't like to have them standing around while I figure stuff out or ever worse have nothing for them to do after the hour drive to help!

I could move the radiator an inch forward like Rice mentioned but that might interfear with the air conditioner on the front side of the radiator.

Nocents
 
I also did a RamJet motor with much of the same components in my 40... I however did the SM465. I am running an electric fan but have a NON stock radiator --- Not an option from my experienece. I just got an alumi rad from Summit but if I did it again I would go with the double fan made for the rad.

as far as the measurments - mine are identical from the shock towers - best place from what I can tell - would not move it AT ALL if doing it again - do NOT move it back (firewall heat issues) do not move it forward (Fan issues).

if you must take out the cross member or get a different adapter, non SR & no serp. system.

Unless you got the MEFI 4 RamJet I hope you dont care about a) passing emissions or b) gas milage! other than that I LOVE the RJ! :)

Here are some pics
 
Last edited:
I like the PVC snorkel/intake. Very nice
 
Thanks FredTheMonster that helps a lot!

Mine is a 1971 so no smog issues. I don't care too much about milage, but would be interested in what you are getting.

Nocents
 
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