Sas? (3 Viewers)

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I read in one of the slee builds that they redrilled the rear SF shafts to 6 lug. That simplifies things and lowers the overall build cost quite a bit.

I agree with 86 and Bama: build a 9.5" 80 front with a lengthened short side shaft.
 
The extended short side strategy seems viable but one question: How much off-center can the diff be to t-case without inducing vibes?
 
The extended short side strategy seems viable but one question: How much off-center can the diff be to t-case without inducing vibes?

I suppose it depends, but adding 5" to the short side places the diff pretty close to the same offset from CL as a 40 diff, it basically adds ~5" to both sides comparatively.

40/55/70 Series Drivers Side: 29.00"
40/55/70 Series Passenger Side: 17.25"
60/62 Series Drivers Side: 31.5"
60/62 Series Passenger Side: 17.25"
80 Series Drivers Side: 34.125"
80 Series Passenger Side: 17.75"

Those are stock inner lengths. +5" to the short side would give you 34.125 and 22.75, that should put you pretty close to 69" WMS.
 
You bring up some great points... I've been tossing around using a D60 front hp diff drill out the weld plugs and move to pass drop. Then weld 80 balls for the knuckles and run 105 hubs.

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Those ford front ends usually fetch $1k+ but I've seen that done a few times. Or you could just start off with a currie center section and press the tubes to whatever length you want. I still dont understand why you want to get rid of the stronger kingpin and go back to balljoints. I dont understand putting so much extra effort and expense in trying to match the rear axle. Dump it too and go 8 lug at both ends.
 
Those ford front ends usually fetch $1k+ but I've seen that done a few times. Or you could just start off with a currie center section and press the tubes to whatever length you want. I still dont understand why you want to get rid of the stronger kingpin and go back to balljoints. I dont understand putting so much extra effort and expense in trying to match the rear axle. Dump it too and go 8 lug at both ends.
it would be purely to retain abs, stock rims and and not have to change the rear out. But yes a king pin would be stronger. I have a line on the sought after ford 1978-1979 HP60 for 950.

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I read in one of the slee builds that they redrilled the rear SF shafts to 6 lug. That simplifies things and lowers the overall build cost quite a bit.

One would think so, except you now have a bastard rear axle shaft that if you ever need another one you have to send another out again. We got burned on this one when we did the UA and we broke the rear axle shaft.
 
it would be purely to retain abs, stock rims and and not have to change the rear out. But yes a king pin would be stronger. I have a line on the sought after ford 1978-1979 HP60 for 950.

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I wheeled the snot out of that same axle underneath a YJ wrangler on 37s with LS power for years. If stock and out of a f250 highboy, it should have 4.10 gears. I'd retube it for passenger side drop, regear to 4.56 and swap a cucv 14 bolt with the stock 4.56/detroit combo, Disc brake swap kit from ruffstuff, shave the bottom and weld the brackets to use the current suspension. Dynatrac can help with the ABS on the front. These swaps are fairly common on domestic models.
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0905or-dynatrac-abs-retrofit-kit/
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-0708-2002-chevy-2500-solid-axle-swap/
 
I wheeled the snot out of that same axle underneath a YJ wrangler on 37s with LS power for years. If stock and out of a f250 highboy, it should have 4.10 gears. I'd retube it for passenger side drop, regear to 4.56 and swap a cucv 14 bolt with the stock 4.56/detroit combo, Disc brake swap kit from ruffstuff, shave the bottom and weld the brackets to use the current suspension. Dynatrac can help with the ABS on the front. These swaps are fairly common on domestic models. http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/0905or-dynatrac-abs-retrofit-kit/ http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-0708-2002-chevy-2500-solid-axle-swap/
good thinking!!

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Anybody know what the width of the 80 frame is, at coil placement location? Or more to the point: What the frame width difference is between 80 & 100 at coil location?
 
Christo, I am curious to know what problems you ran into using a Dana 60? The Chevy 60 is passenger side drop and is 69" wide, hi steer arms are easy to do and the axle is fairly inexpensive. I know the rear would be different but a 14 bolt is even cheaper and none of the factory links mount above the pinion so link brackets would be easy.
 
Christo, I am curious to know what problems you ran into using a Dana 60? The Chevy 60 is passenger side drop and is 69" wide, hi steer arms are easy to do and the axle is fairly inexpensive. I know the rear would be different but a 14 bolt is even cheaper and none of the factory links mount above the pinion so link brackets would be easy.


We never did one with a Dana axle.
 
Or more to the point: What the frame width difference is between 80 & 100 at coil location?
100 is approximately 6" wider than 105 frame at the coil location.
 
100 is approximately 6" wider than 105 frame at the coil location.
this whole 105 confuses the sh*t out of me... So is the 105 BODY the same as a 100 in size? But is placed on an 80 frame??

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^ yes: 105 = 80 rolling chassis + 100 body...close enough.

That's why your LX600 would be very attractive with a 100 body on top...for me and where I go I'd prefer, all things being equal, the narrower track...than SAS 100.
 
Scroll down a few pages in this PDF for the frame specs...
 

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Nice find hoser!
 
^ yes: 105 = 80 rolling chassis + 100 body...close enough.

That's why your LX600 would be very attractive with a 100 body on top...for me and where I go I'd prefer, all things being equal, the narrower track...than SAS 100.

Ok, I've done a lot of googling since I saw it earlier in the thread, but I have to ask, what is a LX600?
 
RockJock82's self named GM 6.0L powered LX450 :)
 
Yeah lol LX600 = 6.0L :D

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