RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #181
yeah I have had zero issues with 400+Hp and locked. Plus I wheel my LX so far the stock diffs have proven worthy...
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Sas?
- Thread starter RockJock82
- Start date
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Reason for a 100 series SAS
#1 Cool factor (at least for me
)
#2:Rear AC
#3:
facts:
A modded IFS 100 series will go 99% of the places owners want them to go.
A modded IFS 100 series will ride and handle better then any SAS
If it was about more travel in a 100 series more guys would be running AHC
If you want pwr and wheel hard buy an 80 and have slee/rockjock put a V8 in it. The body and frame clearance in an 80 is better suited for off road.< No need to go there the thread is about SAS 100.
So from a cost point 2003+ 100 series (4:10/5spd low 1st), 80 axle with some form of 6-5 lug conversion, coilovers(clearance), 80 series steering box, and links (cost) makes the most sense if you can fab, yes?
#1 Cool factor (at least for me
)#2:Rear AC
#3:
facts:
A modded IFS 100 series will go 99% of the places owners want them to go.
A modded IFS 100 series will ride and handle better then any SAS
If it was about more travel in a 100 series more guys would be running AHC
If you want pwr and wheel hard buy an 80 and have slee/rockjock put a V8 in it. The body and frame clearance in an 80 is better suited for off road.< No need to go there the thread is about SAS 100.
So from a cost point 2003+ 100 series (4:10/5spd low 1st), 80 axle with some form of 6-5 lug conversion, coilovers(clearance), 80 series steering box, and links (cost) makes the most sense if you can fab, yes?
Come on, we all know there is nothing practical going on here. Wanna know how many of our customers claim they are doing a diesel conversion for their wife and to get better MPG's...tooo many....
Tell yourself whatever you have too, we do this because of the cool factor.
PS We have another project....that needs a 2UZ....soo it all works out...
Tell yourself whatever you have too, we do this because of the cool factor.
PS We have another project....that needs a 2UZ....soo it all works out...
duggy
SILVER Star
Come on, we all know there is nothing practical going on here. Wanna know how many of our customers claim they are doing a diesel conversion for their wife and to get better MPG's...tooo many....
Tell yourself whatever you have too, we do this because of the cool factor.
PS We have another project....that needs a 2UZ....soo it all works out...
Roger that. Keeping subscribed to this thread in the hopes it'll inspire me to SAS my 100.
Not sure why there's so many nay-sayers in this thread. Upgrading the front axle for more travel and getting rid of the weak rack and pinion system along with the all-so-common grenading front diff is a no-brainer to me if it includes the cool factor
Preaching to the choir on practical, but nothing sensible about, either.
SA'd 100 I get for the 2UZ and "for the hell of it" factor, regardless if it's to be a mall crawler. I'd drive it, with great pleasure.
SA'd 100 with a 4BT makes no sense to me, since a 4BT can be swapped into an 80 that needs no surgery, is more conducive for tighter, technical trails, and affords similar interior accompaniments, already.
In realizing that my opinion counts for nothing nor was it asked for, coupled with the being described as an OE fan boy with a general sentiment that 4BTs serve best the bread vans they're common in, I don't see the gain unless premature hearing loss or a constant vibratory rust abatement program on fasteners is the goal.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #186
How much wrench time do you have on Cummins engines or have any general knowledge about them besides cruising the forums? Because if you did you would know that the vibration issue can be fixed. The motors are not as bad as people paint them to be.... Better power and fuel mileage those are not goals those are guarantees
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sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I did, I saw the drop down lists with all the options. However I have also drawn this out and I can not easily get to a point where the patterns does not overlap.
As for our choice of differential, our main reason for not doing the 80 front end is that our goal is to build a stronger truck in the end. We are not trying to do the cheapest SAS swap. Normally the cost of the diff becomes small compared to the overall job.
If you are trying to do the swap with a 80 axle, then I am of the opinion that one should just stick with an 80.
Construction equipment and commercial trucks is the extent of hands on experience. Leased a Lull for a couple of years and have logged seat time in skid steers and other equipment powered by.
Drove a late 80s or early 90s 3500 for a commercial nursery in 90/91 for a year or so. Recently drove a swapped F450 utility truck, in an attempt to determine if a viable swap for the third POS 6.0L Powersmoke in my F350. All 6BTs mind you.
Can't speak for road power, since none of the above were built for much beyond an industrial purpose, but the F450 test drive was fine, but, at that time, not viable for 4WD F350s, which I have.
I'm prejudiced against diesels, as a whole, the only I've ever driven and liked being a 1KD, for the record.
To each their own.
If you need a buyer if/when the 2UZ is pulled, as long as it doesn't have hole through the block, I'd be interested in.
They claim no problem, just send money
I support and agree your 1st choice in axles. When I was exploring 100 SAS I felt your design was well thought out and executed.
Again I agree an 80 would not be my 1st choice either but I support progress and innovation and if it takes someone else using an 80 axle for there SAS I say go for it.
I talked to the owner of your white SAS, after he told me it rode like an 80
I sold my 06 SAS candidate and bought another 80 Now my 80 needs a VVT and 5spdRockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #190
Im not trying to belittle you on your knowledge on diesels but there is a huge misconception that you can't get rid of the 4BT DT's (detox tremors). I will hit you up once I have it. Thanks!
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #191
Lets put a Yota 4.7l in itThey claim no problem, just send money
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Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
Post that info. I'd love to read about a quiet, low vibration 4bt....I've never seen one and I've considered the swap. I have a buddy with two of them sitting in his shop.
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.
There's an article about an Early Bronco that did one, had the thing professionally balanced and tuned - claimed it ran very smooth.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #194
Muddy Bean
Breaking something or fixing something
Would love to hear or see more about that...pm me or I can google it. Sorry for the thread digression, back on topic, Christo , when you did the sas for the Alaska guy, did the truck retain the fulltime awd mode? Same torque split? After driving several iterations of awd in subarus, to Suzukis, to vans, fords, etc, I've found the 100 to be the most stable especially around corners. I can't get the rear to pop out ever....if I carefully time my gas pedal usage on a Subaru I can swap ends so fast in those cars. The 100 is quite boring by comparison in its level of snow stability, though I'm thoroughly enjoying it in 2wd right now. If I were forced to give up the fulltime awd, I think I would shy away from an sas...though I suspect most of you who desire one couldn't care less about awd and are looking for better hard core off road ability?? Also, how much weight does it add? I read in my truck trend that jeep is considering ifs for the wrangler next year to save on weight and help meet fuel economy standards. How much weight does a sas add?
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD while navigating gnarly trail. Typos are inherent.
That thing was sick! Probably my dream rig.
They make drive slugs for almost every axle. I dont see a reason why you couldn't keep the transfer case stock.
Here is the spacer I am talking about.
How much for custom inners?
Clint
This would be the proper way to widen the front axle. I wouldn't want to use wheel spacers on the front to modify track width due to scrub radius issues, and possibly swinging the tire in to the kickpanel, etc.
With the above pic, to widen the axle housing, I would want to widen only one side, the short side. Then shorten and re-spline a spare long side axle to work on the new longer short-side.
Keep the long side stock 80 length. One less part to worry about when it comes to spares and/or replacements. Stock on one side, semi-custom on the other.
A this point, we are half-way to a cut n turn, might as well do the other side too to correct pinion angle vs caster angle.
I also would be interested in re-using the stock AHC front shocks with this conversion, so that I could 'lower' the ride height to sneak into parking garages and whatnot. Or make the truck kneel so my grandma can get in. Wife n kids already know how to climb up into a landcruiser.
(currently shopping for a 05-06 LX470 and following this thread as a thought-project, and have a spare 80 front axle laying around)
My other thoughts on the 5-lug/6-lug debate, I would consider swapping in the 80 rear axle to change the whole truck to 6-lug. Would likely be cheaper than 105 hubs and re-gearing the 8" front. Even if I put spacers on the rear to match the track width of the new fronts. Obvious advantages would include the full-float rear axle and matched gearing to the front axle, plus a possibility of an e-locked rear as well, if desired. Disadvantage would be that they're 4.10 gears and not 4.30 or 4.88. But if you wanted 4.88 it would be the same amount of work, less the wheel hub stuff.
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #199
You bring up some great points... I've been tossing around using a D60 front hp diff drill out the weld plugs and move to pass drop. Then weld 80 balls for the knuckles and run 105 hubs.
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BamaHeel
Intergalactic Champion
I had forgotten about this. Eric (started) an 80 semi float rear for an HD front axle.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-c...ies-weak-link-all-toyota-hd-front-axle-7.html
Link to the guy that finished it is at the end of the thread. With the above knuckles you may do a stronger axle for cheaper and keep it all Toyota which is what a lot of people seem to want.
With some fab skills this might be a possibility.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-c...ies-weak-link-all-toyota-hd-front-axle-7.html
Link to the guy that finished it is at the end of the thread. With the above knuckles you may do a stronger axle for cheaper and keep it all Toyota which is what a lot of people seem to want.
With some fab skills this might be a possibility.
