SAS with just a little lift?

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cdalejef

cdalejef

10 Year
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Threads
2
Messages
16
Location
Kentucky
Has anyone seen a SAS done that gives very little lift? I'd love to have SAS but don't want to be way up in the air (2" lift max). I'd like to do it using stock 84-85 springs in the stock spring under setup.
 
I'm no expert but I think the problem that you run into is steering. You need to go 3"+ to use hysteer or crossover (or whatever it's called) steering. I assume you could install a front spring hanger kit like this one: https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupsuspension/41, a solid front axle, some 1.5" wheel spacers, factory height springs, etc. and you would be good to go except for the steering and front pto shaft.

I don't know what you would have to do about steering. Maybe convert to pre-86 steering?
 
WarDamnEagle said:
I'm no expert but I think the problem that you run into is steering. You need to go 3"+ to use hysteer or crossover (or whatever it's called) steering. I assume you could install a front spring hanger kit like this one: https://www.allprooffroad.com/pickupsuspension/41, a solid front axle, some 1.5" wheel spacers, factory height springs, etc. and you would be good to go except for the steering and front pto shaft.

I don't know what you would have to do about steering. Maybe convert to pre-86 steering?
Click to expand...

I don't need hi-steer as this is an expedition vehicle with 31" tires.
 
The issue is with the draglink, not the tie rod. It will be difficult to do a SAS with that little lift and have any type of crossover steering. You could swap the steering box and go with push-pull steering, but that would be a HUGE step backwards. Bump steer gets crazy without a torque rod.

The factory springs are very flat, and the factory setup is sprung-over (SOA), not sprung-under like on the Cruisers.

I have OME front springs in the front, which give about 2-1/2" of lift, and it is minimal. I have to limit up-travel with a bumpstop on the passenger side, and it hits the frame often.
 
You could get just the drag links from Marlin (or whoever), use the stock 85 steering arms, cut the J off of the drivers side arm (or use FJ40 arms/no J), and get some FJ60 TRE's from any part store. That would net you Low Steer Crossover.
 
fjfodee said:
You could get just the drag links from Marlin (or whoever), use the stock 85 steering arms, cut the J off of the drivers side arm (or use FJ40 arms/no J), and get some FJ60 TRE's from any part store. That would net you Low Steer Crossover.
Click to expand...

How would you connect the pitman arm at the steering box to the steering arm? Typically this is done with a draglink, that connects at the passenger side. Which has to be above the spring. Which hits the frame if you don't have much lift.
 
Ah yes, I see what you're saying. I forgot about the mini's being SOA from the factory, and that the HI-Steer kits move the steering above the springs. This is the tie rod I was talking about (upper right), but it wouldn't work because the link from the box would probably hit the bottom of the spring.

tie rod.webp

This is the type of setup I'm using on my 40. It's a mixture of mini, 40/60/Marlin components. BUT, it is SUA.

EDIT: It may still work, depending on how far the arm drops below the spring on the pass side.
EDIT Again: Probably wouldn't be able to turn tho.
tie rod.webp
 
I know it's probably not ideal, or cost effective, but couldn't you go SUA with say a 3" lift. Then do a cut and turn on the knuckle balls to adjust the castor?
 
I would shoot for a low lift of 3" +/- and use old man emu springs and old school crossover steering. This would look OK for about 31s and do well enough to run some skinny 33s. Being OK with a just a little more lift and you can use the crossover steering which will handle vastly superior to stock puch pull drag link. These guys are right the crossover probably won't fit with only 1.5" of lift. This ride height won't be too bad and you will get a great ride for the miles and miles of bouncy road you get with the overland use with the little extra bit of bump travel.
 
A low lift SAS is all about bumpstops. There is a build over on yotatech called the "great white shark build" or something similar, and the guy is running about 2-2.5" of lift with high steer. I spoke to the guy who did the work and after talking with him I am planning on using the FROR hanger kit ( seems to be the lowest at only 1" lift I think) and a set of 84-85 OME front springs which should net me about the same 2.5" which will sit nicely with a set of 33's. High steer will clear as long as I set the bumps up right. It will limit up travel to only a few inches, but honestly that is probably more than I have now with my IFS, and the droop will be much better.

If you want low you will definitely want to stay away from TG leaves, even their 3" packs have some crazy arch.
 
jynx said:
A low lift SAS is all about bumpstops. There is a build over on yotatech called the "great white shark build" or something similar, and the guy is running about 2-2.5" of lift with high steer. I spoke to the guy who did the work and after talking with him I am planning on using the FROR hanger kit ( seems to be the lowest at only 1" lift I think) and a set of 84-85 OME front springs which should net me about the same 2.5" which will sit nicely with a set of 33's. High steer will clear as long as I set the bumps up right. It will limit up travel to only a few inches, but honestly that is probably more than I have now with my IFS, and the droop will be much better.

If you want low you will definitely want to stay away from TG leaves, even their 3" packs have some crazy arch.
Click to expand...

That build was the first thing to come to mind when I read "low SAS". I believe his front springs were custom made by a blacksmith, so no real comparison there, but it works. If you want to base your build off of something, this would be a great start.


Photo by Toyospero

The Great White Shark attack SAS... - Page 14 - YotaTech Forums
 
Yep, thats the one. The guy who did that SAS has done a couple of rescue vehicles with similar setups and they all started with those custom leafs and the great white is the only one that is still on them. He said the others broke the springs, and they swapped them over to the OME packs with good success.
 
I am doing a low SAS on a 84 2wd pickup. I am using a FJ60 front axle with stock fj60 steering arms etc. (however there will be some mods on steering arm length and the pitman arm TRE will be changed to a fj80 end). I am also using stock FJ60 front springs and keeping it SUA. It put me just about the same as a stock 4wd 84 pickup. FJ60 front WMS in 58" and so is the rear of IFS pickups 1986-95 so a perfect match.

So a good option for a low lift with lots of room for steering parts would be to go with a similar set up but for a bit more lift use a land cruiser 2-3" lift front leaf spring. You could also use any front lift springs 3-5" for a pickup / 4-runner. Just set it up so it is SUA. If using a pickup solid axle put the fj40/60 steering arms on the ends and use FJ60 steering links.

Here is the link. https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...4-sas-1986-toyota-chinook-camper-build-4.html
Page 3 and 4 have most the front end work so far. Keep in mind you will end up with a bit more lift because I do not have the shackles installed yet so the back of the front leaf is just sitting on the frame in the photos.
 
IFS frames are 1.5" lower than SFA & 2wd frames. Spring hangers and shackles add another 1.5". Now add your 3" lift springs and your '86-95 is 6" taller than a stock '85.

I made mine as low as possible, but am still 4.5" over stock (2" lift springs). I don't think its possible to go much lower without hacking the frame apart. Both my tie rod and drag link hit the frame on full bump. Steering box his the drivers side spring on full bump (both the sector shaft, and tie rod end), and the drag link end (on the steering box) kisses the frame when turning. If I went to coils, and moved the steering down to the stock steering arms, I could probably drop the truck another 1.5" before the differential would hit the oil pan.
 
KLF said:
How would you connect the pitman arm at the steering box to the steering arm? Typically this is done with a draglink, that connects at the passenger side. Which has to be above the spring. Which hits the frame if you don't have much lift.
Click to expand...

It has been successfully done, but have to run a bent drag link.
low steer.webp
 
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