SAS on a 100

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I'm glad this thread is linked to the TundraSolutions site, or I would not have found it.
My next project is probably going to be a straight axle 100 series LC. I love Land Cruisers, started my wheeling a century ago in a 40 series.
Anyway, I'd like to essentially do the same thing I have done on the Tundy with a newer LC and be able to run 35" tires with that nice V8 power and all the nice ammenties Toyota builds into the LC. So, I'll following this thread and others who discuss the SAS option.
It isn't impossible, but it is a bunch of ciphering and plain hard work. But what you end up with is a different much, much, more capable vehicle.

35's on the 100 isnt uncommon anymore. go bigger :cool:
 
I would use 4.0 Fabtech coilovers from the Superduty kit instead of coils and a radius arm design, much easier to adjust and there would be no need to locate a coil spring in the crowded area under the 100 series hood.

For just a little more money (this project will already be expensive) I would have Diamond Axle build me an axle housing the same width as the 100 series rear using the 80 series knuckles with High Steer. A good double ram full hydro system would be the best way to deal with the steering. Christo had a hard time with his full hydro on the Shortbus, but I have a great system from Howe on my rig that steers great on the road.

I think the steering would be the main issue, but I am sure a competent builder/fabricator could easily work that out too.

It really does not look that bad to me. If I had a 18K 100 series versus a 30K 100 series I would not hesitate to do it. I think Frankie's Off Road in Alabama would be a great place to do the work. Frankie is an animal and could figure this out, no sweat.

I still go back to the fact that, other than SUPER cool factor, you still have a BIG rig that is not that great of an off road vehicle BEYOND the way it was designed. Sure the extra front travel will make rockcrawling and dune jumping better, but the weight and size of the 100 will always put it in the "way to fawking big and heavy" wheeling category for me.

I will stick with IFS and push it to the max for the trails that it can handle.
 
OK...I'll be the peanut gallery on this one: What would be the purpose of SAS on a 100...particularly if it would require 6"+ lift like Hoser states (and after looking at mine I think Hoser's hunch is correct)? It's still going to be too long, too wide and too heavy for most real on-trail use. And the cost/effort vs reward just doesn't seem to calc in my mind.













Just curious.
 
It's still going to be too long, too wide and too heavy for most real on-trail use.

I agree Dan. The IFS is not the limitation on the 100 series on most trails. I think that there are other improvements that can be made to the front suspension (better dampers, uniball control arms) that will improve ride quality and suspension travel on the trail and be less expensive and more streetable than a solid axle swap.
 
OK...I'll be the peanut gallery on this one: What would be the purpose of SAS on a 100...particularly if it would require 6"+ lift like Hoser states (and after looking at mine I think Hoser's hunch is correct)? It's still going to be too long, too wide and too heavy for most real on-trail use. And the cost/effort vs reward just doesn't seem to calc in my mind. Just curious.


I sort of agree. It's way to heavy but geared deep and with a crawler box both the 80's & 100's will hold there own out there to a limited degree. I don't see the 100's doing much with 35's or larger tires without busting "stuff" in the IFS but if you carry enough spares and don't mind holding the group up for trail repairs it's OK. I've got the crawler on the SAS Tundra and it performs fine in the rocks - my 80 takes a real pounding in much the same enviroment but usually makes it through. (Slee set it up real nice) I haven't went through a set of front brakes yet but running 3K+ rpms while breaking hard in an effort to crawl is a "poor man's" version of a crawler box on the 80. The length and width is a draw back and in some locations you will just have to turn around if no by-pass is available - otherwise finesse and luck are the keys to limiting sheet metal damage in areas where one really doesn't need to be - except for "braggin rights" - but why make a very capable off-road vehicle if you're not going to tread after all the other fools out there?

I've still got the Tundra for sale or trade if someone really wants a full-size capable trail rig that's as dependable as a Cruiser but gets far better gas mileage and has a 35 gal fuel cell in the bed, so the fuel supply is both rock safe and long-range friendly if that's a concern.
 
Get your act together Darren and hurry up and make a kit to do this, there are lots waiting for it I'm sure!

If I were going down the road of 100 ifs transform, I wouldnt consider a sas, and would just go new evo coil over bypasses on the front, with a cross over a arm design off a new subframe in the front to hang it all from and new spindles to take some pressure off the rack ends, and I would aim for 3" of lift, and super long travel using 14" rear shocks and 10" stroke fronts.

I would speak to Mr Podvin about his flip front set up, and make the fenders larger to fit the 37's on live axle rim offset, with built in flare, to keep the wheel to arch ratio in proportion, and I would move the rear diff back 20mm and trim the rear side so the 37's went up into the rear fenders with flares on there to suit, also keeping the fender arch to wheel ratio on gap, and cover cut with flares. I would just run a 20mm tailshaft spacer and make longer arms for this.

This would give a vehicle with great road manners, good clearance under the vehicle running 37's, wider track to match the height, and the suspension having a little more than 1/3 up travel and a hell of alot of droop, especially the rear.

I would set the front with 1.5- 2 deg neg camber, run 20" rims with the 37's, and rn slotted rotors and upgraded pads, and have a nice handling vehicle at speed with the set up, for the fun parts, and a vehicle with heaps of droop for crawling over obsticles when required.

V8 AVO turbo, and 5 speed auto for the drivetrain with a nice KAAZ or detroit softlocker rear, and air locker front .
 
i am doing research on a simular issue. i am thinking of doing a sas on a 02 tundra. i have not found any one that has done it yet. its my dd so i want it to be perfect. it will be sweet if sucessful.


The first Tundra swap I remember was back around 2001. I'm guessing there have been about 10 or so well documented Tundra SAS on the internet. Don't hurt your brain too much trying to figure it out. Doing the swap on the Tundra is very similar to the Tacoma and much less so on the 100 series.
 
If I were going down the road of 100 ifs transform, I wouldnt consider a sas, and would just go new evo coil over bypasses on the front, with a cross over a arm design off a new subframe in the front to hang it all from and new spindles to take some pressure off the rack ends, and I would aim for 3" of lift, and super long travel using 14" rear shocks and 10" stroke fronts.

I would speak to Mr Podvin about his flip front set up, and make the fenders larger to fit the 37's on live axle rim offset, with built in flare, to keep the wheel to arch ratio in proportion, and I would move the rear diff back 20mm and trim the rear side so the 37's went up into the rear fenders with flares on there to suit, also keeping the fender arch to wheel ratio on gap, and cover cut with flares. I would just run a 20mm tailshaft spacer and make longer arms for this.

This would give a vehicle with great road manners, good clearance under the vehicle running 37's, wider track to match the height, and the suspension having a little more than 1/3 up travel and a hell of alot of droop, especially the rear.

I would set the front with 1.5- 2 deg neg camber, run 20" rims with the 37's, and rn slotted rotors and upgraded pads, and have a nice handling vehicle at speed with the set up, for the fun parts, and a vehicle with heaps of droop for crawling over obsticles when required.

V8 AVO turbo, and 5 speed auto for the drivetrain with a nice KAAZ or detroit softlocker rear, and air locker front .





.... I think I just wet myself .... :o


.
 
second that!! I have a 1998 LX470 and am trying to fit 38" will settle for 35" thow going to do the AHC 2.5 lift for now but sombody needs to make better options for lift on 100 series
 
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100_5_01.jpg


Looks pretty good to me. :cool:
 
That is the second time I have seen those wheels. Any idea who makes them?

Thanks,

uzj100
 
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flyin6, that Tundra is sweet. There's a guy on Pirate with an SAS Titan running coilovers, but that's the first Tundra I've seen with them.
 

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