Looks good. What did you end up doing with the lower windshield bar?
Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato
- Thread starter TeddyBoy
- Start date
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What is the reason you did the roof like you did over just an X? Just to do something different or do you think it would be stronger?
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #704
An X is obviously the simplest and perhaps the most efficient way to create proper bracing and triangulation but that's just not me. I'm hoping to be a little more creative and still effective at the same time. That said, there is an inherent weakness in the hoop on mine which will be rectified using a piece of 3/16" plate welded to the top of the tube inside the hoop.
Also, in the interest if adding some tech I've been doing some research on gussets. Short version is there are many ways to create a proper gusset and many ways to add gussets that in fact create failure points as well.
Notice the "better" gusset has an arch which distributes the load across a joint instead of creating a pinch point like a simple triangle does.
Examples:
I found an interesting article a few days ago but can't find it right now, will post later.
Also, in the interest if adding some tech I've been doing some research on gussets. Short version is there are many ways to create a proper gusset and many ways to add gussets that in fact create failure points as well.
Notice the "better" gusset has an arch which distributes the load across a joint instead of creating a pinch point like a simple triangle does.
Examples:
I found an interesting article a few days ago but can't find it right now, will post later.
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Interesting the note about the double plate vs. the single plate welded in the center of the tubes. That is the way I have almost always seen joints gusseted, but when you think about it, it makes sense that that single plate at the highest stress point would tend to act like a can opener on the tube if placed in a compressive bend.
Good info. Also, I would think the halo of braces will add strength to your top windshield bar that a simple X would leave unbraced. Plus you definitely get more style points
Good info. Also, I would think the halo of braces will add strength to your top windshield bar that a simple X would leave unbraced. Plus you definitely get more style points
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #706
Interesting the note about the double plate vs. the single plate welded in the center of the tubes. That is the way I have almost always seen joints gusseted, but when you think about it, it makes sense that that single plate at the highest stress point would tend to act like a can opener on the tube if placed in a compressive bend.
Good info. Also, I would think the halo of braces will add strength to your top windshield bar that a simple X would leave unbraced. Plus you definitely get more style points
seen them many times myself and will even admit to doing it a few times as well but knowledge is power.
Got the halo all wrapped up and gusseted from the B pillar to the main spar going over the doors, thinking it'll be plenty strong now. With that being done I can now finally move onto other things...
And just because I have stupid habit of counting these things the roof consists of 23 bends (mentioned already) and 22 tube notches all cut by hand with a grinder and flap wheel. Fork me I'm tired.
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I'm sure you have looked at tons of pictures of cages but these might give you some ideas for the windshield bar.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #708
I'm sure you have looked at tons of pictures of cages but these might give you some ideas for the windshield bar.
Cool rig. This is kinda what I'm lookin to do, just need to find the real estate. Notice the hood pins, don't wanna go that route though.
Nice work so far Ted. Glad to see it coming back together. Might have to hit you up for some tube bending advice.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
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- #710
appreciate the props but I have no expertise to pass along, maybe a few pointers though. Measure 6 times then bend once - hopefully! Have a lot of beer on hand, have much more material than you think you need. However long you think it will take, quadruple that! And lastly, when the beer wears off at night you're gonna need something considerably stronger to chase away the old age pains! Hint: I'm not thinking Advil here either.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #711
Weather is killing my build time, rain and cold weather blows!!
Declaring the exo finished, I added the shown brace and tied it onto the fire wall for added support. Hoping some of you shade-tree structural engineers will critique.
Fenders have been banged back into something resembling a body panel and they do fit, sort of.
drive train and cases are next.
Declaring the exo finished, I added the shown brace and tied it onto the fire wall for added support. Hoping some of you shade-tree structural engineers will critique.
Fenders have been banged back into something resembling a body panel and they do fit, sort of.
drive train and cases are next.
Ted is the down tube along the windshield attached to the frame?
Ted, you going to do a windshield bar to tie the two sides together? Only other thing would be to gusset those two corners since that is the primary load path from the main halo down to the frame. Did that part fail when you rolled? If so how?
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #714
Short version yes, the exo is tied into the frame from front bumper to rear cross member with numerous points in between.
Well that's the debate. That part didn't fail per se' but i believe allowed enough lateral flex to cause other joints to fail, thus tying into the firewall theoretically would reduce that flex. Think of it this way, the firewall is now sandwiched b/w the A-Pillar down tubes reducing (or eliminating) the need for the cross bar. At least that's the thought process until someone can convince me that's stupid thinking.
got the rear V6 diff all welded up yesterday and looks like I've located another T-case. This means I gotta start getting serious about pulling the trans and getting parts ordered. Anyone going to Nashville in the near future?
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Read the part about it being welded to the firewall but apparently it didn't make the trip up between my ears. Being welded there should give you some lateral strength there. Since you shouldn't be doing any desert racing or need protection from a high speed impact then it should be good. The only other thing is that while it is attached to one of the stronger parts of any vehicle, it is still only sheet metal so if there is any way to add a piece of plate along the length of the tube and onto the area where the hinges mount, then that should help reinforce it further and distribute any loading along a larger area. I'm not trying to pick it apart, hell the closest I have come to anything remotely wrenching related was checking the antifreeze in everything today ahead of the coming arctic blast rolling in, just trying to look at it from murphy's point of view.
You are missing some important pieces in your diff there. Do you have room to get the spider gears in?
Looks good Ted, keep up the good work
The spider gears and cross pin, "x" in your case, carry the rotational load. Without it you are relying entirely in your weld to drive the truck
Above are examples from the 14 bolt crowd.