Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato (1 Viewer)

[cruisermatt]

Had you considered the method of welding only some of the teeth on the spiders so you still have some wiggle room?

 

[TeddyBoy]

Had you considered the method of welding only some of the teeth on the spiders so you still have some wiggle room?

View attachment 1190631

View attachment 1190632

never considered it, whats the purpose? Seems like there could be shock load in some instances.

Parts order going in tomorrow for case adapter and 23 spline 2.28 gear. Triples are now inevitable.

For you guys running triple sticks... RA Design or Davez Offroad? They're about the same price and I think @schmitty and @4xsteve are running the RA design but from what I remember Josh bent one of the connecting rods.

RA design - Triple Sticks

OR

Davez Offroad - Triple shifter

Also been parts scrounging. @FJCRAWLER had the t-case (thanks again) and finally scored some brake rotors (see post about disc brakes conversion) from PaP in recent days. I thought finding rear brake calipers off a 94 Pathfinder was going to be easy but everyone I look at has drum brakes and new calipers run $80 a pop with the core charge. Probably gonna have to look at a Mustang GT caliper or similar.

 

[4xsteve]

RADesigns:
- can customize the shifters like mine if you're interested in making the shift pattern different like I was
- shorter levers; less in the way (I can't imagine mine being any higher; I think they'd annoy me)
- will work with an R10 adapter

Davez:
- lower profile in the tunnel
- more stout design
- longer shifters for more leverage
- may not work with R10 adapter
- BLING!

 

[TeddyBoy]

Good feedback, thanks. I know you truck is Ex cab but did you run into the horse collar when your triples went in? Looks like I'm going to have to cut that out and replace it with another cross member.

Also gotta put in another parts order soon: Top shift conversion for the t-case, motor mounts, brake lines and I'm sure many other things I'm not aware of right now.

EDIT: forward shift to top shift conversion for FREE

Converting forward shift case to top shift case? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

 

[TeddyBoy]

RADesigns:
- can customize the shifters like mine if you're interested in making the shift pattern different like I was
- shorter levers; less in the way (I can't imagine mine being any higher; I think they'd annoy me)
- will work with an R10 adapter

Davez:
- lower profile in the tunnel
- more stout design
- longer shifters for more leverage
- may not work with R10 adapter
- BLING!

View attachment 1200839

on the fence for right now. I like the RAD for a few reasons, 1) they are built to order so no concerns getting them in a reasonable amount of time, 2) Levers seem a little closer together so maybe a better fit b/w the seats and 3) they come with the boots and the shift knobs which is a nice touch.

Davez seems hit and miss on the shipping times, website says "shipping soon" whatever that means so a phone call is needed. Also, and this is pretty picky but you only get 2 of the blingy shift knobs not 3 and no boots included so that's a bummer.

Motor mounts ordered and a new "No problem/problem" bumper sticker ordered cuz I liked it and so John's wife doesn't get upset with me for ruining the last one.

Anyway, got started yesterday, t-cases are out.

 

[4xsteve]

Good feedback, thanks. I know you truck is Ex cab but did you run into the horse collar when your triples went in? Looks like I'm going to have to cut that out and replace it with another cross member.

I didn't hit it, but I had to cut it because of my belly tuck; My rear output flange was lined up directly behind it. I just cut out the DS and left the PS with the fuel tank mounted to it. I don't see a lot of reason to replace the crossmember since you recently exo'd the truck. Pretty sure, even after removing the horsecollar, you'll still be more structurally sound than before you exo'd.

 

[TeddyBoy]

I don't see a lot of reason to replace the crossmember since you recently exo'd the truck. Pretty sure, even after removing the horsecollar, you'll still be more structurally sound than before you exo'd.

Glad to hear you say that cuz that's what I was wondering/thinking too. As it is right now the flange will actually hit the horse collar so it's got to go.

 

[4xsteve]

Are you doing a driveline tuck at all?

Did you get an R10 adapter for the rear case or go standard?

What motor mounts are you going with?

All those questions are geared towards aiming for a flat belly without a body lift - which obviously is out of the question now.

 

[TeddyBoy]

Are you doing a driveline tuck at all?

Did you get an R10 adapter for the rear case or go standard?

What motor mounts are you going with?

All those questions are geared towards aiming for a flat belly without a body lift - which obviously is out of the question now.

Took a few measurements yesterday before putting up on the rack. I'm 27" to frame and 23.5 to bottom of skid plate on 39.5s aired down. Way too damned tall.

Obviously I'm going to lower it by pulling a leaf at a time to get me where I wanna be at roughly 23-24" to frame and as flat bellied as I can get.

Yes tucking the belly as much as possible, I'm within about 3.5 inches now so hoping to flat belly or close but no did not go with the rotated adapter. Using OEM mounts and planning to modify as needed for the additional motor tilt to get the driveline tuck.

Also plan to push the rear axle back about 6+/- inches and rotate the rear pinion more if needed. Will be moving the front double cardan drive shaft to the rear to help with the angle and o fcourse carve out the trans tunnel as needed. All this should get me pretty close to flat I think.

 

[4xsteve]

Here's what mine looked like before cutting. Centerline of the output was about even with the top of the crossmember.

 

[cruisermatt]

never considered it, whats the purpose? Seems like there could be shock load in some instances.

View attachment 1199337

Apparently supposed to give you just a little bit of wiggle room so it doesn't all bind up.

 

[FJCRAWLER]

Where did you find the transmission or did you just rebuild the old one ?

You have a lot of working out to do if you think you are going to get a flat belly .

 

[TeddyBoy]

@TeddyBoy how is the rebuild of the rebuilt coming ?

The exterior is done, nuthin to do but add a few stickers.

Short version, lots to do. The go-go stuff is gonna take awhile, parts coming in early next week for the t-cases and might have the tranny swapped in this weekend but doubt it. Going to attempt to mate the 2 together to make 1 good'un. Once the trany and cases are in then I gotta figure out the triple sticks, driveshafts and rear axle location.

Also hoping to pull a leaf from each pack this weekend and see how it sites.

Diffs are in hand just gotta put em in and figure out of my front locker is a total loss or not, have a rebuild kit but might not be worth the effort.

 

[TeddyBoy]

Tranny is out, Rear axle is out, trac bar is out, center console is out, seats are out, 3 of 4 spring hangers are out, tool boxes are out, driveshafts are out, damn, is there much more? Even pulled 2 springs from rear pack and now I'm waiting on Big Brown to show up with parts.

Moving the rear axle back 6.5 inches and relocating the rear perch, this gets me lower and longer. Now that I look at the old hanger on there not sure I'm diggin it, just doesn't have any character.

The truck almost nose dived off the lift when the rear axles came loose so John had the idea of throwing a barrel up there and filling it with water, worked like a champ.

Don't think I can make shackles strong enough for this height so maybe I oughta drop 'er a little.

approximate wheel base as far as where the axle will sit except much lower, this will put me right at 112".

 

[TeddyBoy]

So I'll bring this up once more since I have the cases out, have the parts and the tools. To do or not to do? Any structural reason reason why this should not be done?

 

[4xsteve]

http://www.ttora.com/forum/189-dese...rails-less-traveled-tacoma-2.html#post2118100

Maybe try this. I've been thinking about it but I'm pretty sure I'm about to link front and rear instead.

 

[TeddyBoy]

http://www.ttora.com/forum/189-dese...rails-less-traveled-tacoma-2.html#post2118100

Maybe try this. I've been thinking about it but I'm pretty sure I'm about to link front and rear instead.

Looks like's he's building a go-fast truck, I'll give the guy points for fab skills and creativity.

Lowering the rear is not the problem. We've already pulled 2 springs which will help both in height and articulation, its getting the front to match that has me a little more concerned.

Here's the quandary for the front... The springs currently have about 4" of lift (arch) in them and pulling more than 1 may result in insufficient support. As a result of loosing lift I also will loose up travel and I don't want to sacrifice too much of that.

I'll just have to get it together and see what happens.

Anyway, Big Brown dropped off my t-case parts today.

 

[4xsteve]

Well yes, HE is building a go-fast, but the idea for you wasn't for the height issue, it was for the shackle hangar placement issue. Using that type of shackle will net you lots more travel AND will allow you to NOT put the hangars way on the back like in your pic... which I agree, looks gaudy.

And as for losing uptravel, how much do you have now and why are you so scared to lose some? Only reason you need uptravel is for aggressive driving; IE: bouncing or go-fast stuff. If you want to get lower and more stable, you're going to need to take out some lift. Before the 40's and air shocks I had ~4" uptravel and 10" down. Now I'm ~2" up and 14" down.

 

[TeddyBoy]

Well yes, HE is building a go-fast, but the idea for you wasn't for the height issue, it was for the shackle hangar placement issue. Using that type of shackle will net you lots more travel AND will allow you to NOT put the hangars way on the back like in your pic... which I agree, looks gaudy.

And as for losing uptravel, how much do you have now and why are you so scared to lose some? Only reason you need uptravel is for aggressive driving; IE: bouncing or go-fast stuff. If you want to get lower and more stable, you're going to need to take out some lift. Before the 40's and air shocks I had ~4" uptravel and 10" down. Now I'm ~2" up and 14" down.

Yeah the long shackle makes for lots of travel, I got that. I'll need to look at the back of my truck again. One of the reasons we put it so far back is that's pretty much where the 3rd case will push everything without having to cut driveshafts, trac bars etc... It also netted about 1.5 inches of drop by moving it up onto the rear cross brace. Actually I don't mind the location, just the looks of the mount. Pretty sure both Josh's and Sidney's are mounted the same way.

I figure I have about 4" of up travel and 10 down as well, 2" seems very minimal but looks like that's about where I'll be.

 

[pillguy]

Looks complicated Ted, but pretty cool!