Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato

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I tried one last time this morning before heading off t work to back out a stud, ended up snapping the Ez-out so you know where this is now headed.

After poke'n around a little more last night turns out there's a Fastenal about 1/2 a mile from my house - SCORE! First time I'd ever been in one and won't be the last, guy behind the counter was Hella ( :flipoff2: ) helpful.

So while out doin' my work thing today I picked up (25) 7/16-20 Allen Head bolts and (12) 5/16 x 1 dowel pins to replace the ones I sheered. Felt bad for the counter guy so also picked up a 5/16 and 25/64 carbide drill bits and a 7/16 Tap. It's kinda old school but as part of the mod above it's recommended installing 6 new dowels (instead of the OEM 2) for additional support. As best I can figure the dowels don't actually provide sheer strength so much as ensuring alignment to prevent studs from breaking.
 
Fastenal is great EXCEPT that whole bulk sale thing. I have a bag (less 2) of 5/8 lock washers and nylok nuts from installing my fairlead on my 80. It was the only place that had bolts the right length.
 
Yeah agreed on the bulk thing, kind of a PIA. I actually hit 2 Fastenals today, the one near my house only had 10 bolts so the counter guy called around and found them at a store along my travels so I shot by there and picked up the "required" 25 pack. On the dowel pins, again only needing 12, I refused to purchase 100, I mean come on! So at the end of my travels I swung back into Fastenal #1 and the same counter guy popped open the box of 100 pins, counted out 12 then charged me $4. That;s when I started feeling bad and ended up buying another $20 worth of crap I "needed."
 
There's a Fastenal next door to my local offroad shop (who are my wheeling buddies and let me use the shop equipment sometimes), which is 1/3 mile from my shop and a heavy equipment shop that my landlord lets me use (even after hours), which is 1 mile from my work....
Sorry, got a little off track there with the bragging. :p

Sounds like you might've found a good Fastenal location Ted, or at least one with an employee who is willing to do what IS ALLOWED for them to do, but creates more work for them during and after the sale. I used to avoid Fastenal simply due to how expensive the stuff is; maybe a little because of their banker's hours too though. After realizing how much variety they have, carry in stock, and can get, along with the quality of being all or mostly all US made hardware, and the manager allowing me to buy ANY quantity of what I need, I am now a frequent customer. I'm sure all of my purchases are still a "drop in the bucket", but experiences like these lead to talk and posts like this - which is what companies really need in this day and age.
 
Having one down the street from my house at least opens another resource I did not know I had.

Trying get this truck dialed back in is a pain the arse. Finally ordered 2 more 3/4 Heim joints to replace the 2 old tie rod ends on my drag link for the last 2 years and a couple of spares for the tool box. Also ordered a couple of bump stops as I have none right now, felt it on the cove ride.

Tires are burping air like a madman, tried the bead seal and that failed. have another interweb remedy in the works...

Last night got all the holes drilled out and tapped except the one with the EZ out stuck in there. I've chipped at it, hammered it, drilled it even swore at it some and I can't get the damned thing out. About the only thing I'm succeeding at is forking up the hole so I may just run it at Chocco w/ 5 studs until I have a little time to source a replacement IFS hub.

Now for the dowel pins, the tolerances are extremely small trying to get pins and studs to line up with virtually no slop at all. I managed to get 2 new 5/16 pins in and intend to add 2 more for a total of 4, gotta believe it'll still be stronger than stock.

These wold help I'm sure but don't have any.

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Will do the driver's side next which hopefully oughta be easier.

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Yeah i don't have the luxury of breaking things with easy solutions. The studs and pins all broke below the surface of the hub so welder wasn't an option. I may cuss at it some more tonight before i clean it up and put it all back together.
 
Is the little hole in the middle the easy-out? To me it looks like there is a good bit of meat left in the actual stud for a bigger drill bit to go in over it. Do you have a drill press that you could set it in and use that to drill it out?
 
Picture is a little deceiving and having the locking hub bolted in place covers up part of the hole in the hub. The small dark spot is not a hole though it does look like it in the pic, it's actually part of the EZ out I've been hammering at like a rabid dog. I've put it in the drill press a few times with a couple different size carbide bits and each time the bit just roles off the top, this process is starting to woller (is that a word?) out the hole. If the hole gets too buggered (and its close to it now) then it's completely unusable and won't be round enough to tap.

I even tried left hand bits for a short time without thinking but realized my mistake shortly after, obviously left hand bits on an EZ out is the wrong thing to do.
 
What about using a dremel with the small reamer on it . If you take your time you should be able to cut a "center hole" into the easy out . Not sure if it will work just thought I would throw it out there .
 
that's a good idea, read where someone did this and it worked, I'd forgotten about this option. Thanks Rock, will try tonight!!
 
can you freeze it and then hit it with a hammer and center punch? It might shatter it and allow you to get it out

I'm an expert at E-Zout removal.
frown.gif
(AKA internet search)

Don't bother trying to drill it out, that doesn't work. The EZout is harder than any drill bit you will find. Heat and penetrating oil is a waste of time too. The best method I found is to buy a small carbide grinding bit for a Dremel tool and slowly grind the E-Z out away.( usually takes 30 minutes or less) Once you've gotten all of it ground away take a drill bit and drill out the old bolt. Then take a tap & die set and use the tap to remove the old bolt material from the threads. Its a lot easier than it sounds.

If you have access to a cutting torch theres ways of blasting the whole thing free. Its by far the fastest method, but ya gotta have the equipment. Google it for more instructions.
 
Finally success! Slow time of the year for me so had a little extra a time this afternoon.

The dremel tool alone didn't do it but was a good step. The dremel allowed me to flatten the top of the broken EZ-out enough that I could at least recenter the hole. After that I put a propane torch to it for awhile and tried a few different drill bits, broke 1 and found out that you can actually bend a 7/16 carbide bit a perty good amount while in the press. Still failed to come out though.

After about an hour of screwing with it I got pissed and grabbed a 2 lb hammer and a punch and just hit the crap out of it straight down - Bam, it moved. WTF though? It went straight down like driving a nail. Hit a few more times and the damned thing dropped into a cavity inside the hub, I dunno????

Turns out that before trying the EZ out I'd drilled a hole clear through the broken stud which is where I'd inserted the EZ-out to begin with. When I hit the broken part it drove it down further into the hole and ultimately into the above mentioned cavity.

Anyway, was able to fish out the broken piece after drilling out the hole and off to the races I went.

Andrew's post above is pretty much spot on about no bit is gonna touch it, that thing just laughed and gave me the 'ole "one finger salute" the entire time. I didn't try the freezer part, maybe next time.

Thanks for the help guys!!

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Sweet.
 
Doing this mod F+R on my 62, though can't decide between 7/16th or M10...

I've read a few instances where the studs (now bolts) come loose often, I'd keep an eye on them, although it's probably due to careless machining.

Truck looks good! Hopefully I'll get to see it in person some day.
 
I put in a few hours of researching the best fix/upgrade and ran across numerous threads on Pirate with various modifications. There was a large debate over the merits of running cone washers and studs vs this mod and similar ones to include 10MM steering knuckle studs and cone washers.

If you go this route note the guy has a typo in the first post saying drill out to 9.7 MM fr tapping and then corrects himself to 8.7MM later in the thread.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...t-hub-upgrade-official-tech-article-pics.html

Factory specs for OEM 8MM studs and cone washers say torque to 24 lbs, I'm now running lock washers, red thread lock and will be torquing to 80 lbs. The reports back in the initial thread over 2+ years indicate this formula "never" come loose. We'll see.
 
Will the wheel center slip over those bolts, or will you have to take the hub off to get the wheel off in the event of a flat? It looks like they overhang the edge of the hub body a bit.
 
Yeah I see your point and don't now yet. They will certainly go over the bolts without an issue but they may hit the lock washers but that's an easy adjustment if so.

Nothing done this evening, work, crappy weather and the news of Sidney's dad kinda took the wind out of my sails today.

I did receive my Ruffstuff heims today though and my Amazon purchased trail spares came in yesterday. The Ruffstuff heims are hands down a much more refined piece of machinery over these cheap spares, won't do that again even for a few $ saved.

Both are 3/4 16 with 5/8 shank and the differences are obvious.

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