Sandblasted Frame

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Your blaster must not need that work - that is crazy expensive

Blasters are pretty basic pieces of equipment - the question is do you have a beefy compressor to run it??

I have blasted frames with equipment small than this with no issues:
FREE SHIPPING — Allsource 100-lb. Pressure Blaster, Model# 41600 | Portable Abrasive Blasters | Northern Tool + Equipment

I agree with what most everyone on here has said. I have a blaster similar to the one linked above, paid $200. But really wish I had a bigger compressor. Spend your money on your compressor as you will use it again and again and again.

Wire wheeling, high speed saw, impact wrench, etc.

Only problem with this type of thinking is that now I have a garage full of tools but no room for anything else. Welder, Sand Blaster, sand blasting cabinet, air compressor, etc. etc.

I figure I can sell the equipment when Im done, but probably wont.:p
 
I just dropped my frame off for blasting ,rot cut out and replaced, and fab'd up for Saginaw box. I am going to need a new Frt X-member and new rear spring mounting plates. I will let you know what it runs me. I am supposed to have an esitmate this week.

I also like the idea I read hear about the preasure washer and nozzel, but I too am wondering about the flash rust?

Good Luck!
 
Northern Tool sells a nozzle to hook to your pressure washer. you just stick one end of the feed hose into a bag of silica. I got one and can blast all of the paint off of a car in an hour or so. It would do a frame very easily. Make sure ya have a decent high-pressure washer. I highly reccomend this. It also washes as it blasts, and keeps dust to a minumum.

Can you post a link for this? This is interesting to me.

I would also have a question about flash rust but wouldn't that be a perfect surface to paint POR15 on a frame?

Copenhagen1
 
Regarding the pressure washer blaster .....I just don't see it as a good application for frames or even paneling. If someone has experience with this...chime in please.

My impression of the pressure washer blaster is that it can be a great tool for abrading surfaces, and descaling non-ferrous metals. For example, it might be an effective tool for removing graffiti on brick or rock, removing paint on wood, etc. It might be effective for removing paint on an aluminum boat as well. But aluminum is so soft...I would worry about impaling sand into the metal, and having a rough surface for painting.

Thoughts???
 
Cheap Harbor Freight pot blaster, good 80 gallon 13 CFM compressor. 2 bags of Lowe's playground sand reused a couple of times, good respirator, modified welding helmet with forced fresh air (small vacuum in blow mode through small hose to back of helmet) to protect head, good welding gloves to protect hands, and a Saturday to do it.

Sunday I started painting the frame with Rust Bullet.
SandBlasting1.webp
 
using sand

When I tried using the playground sand it clogged my Harbor Frieght SB quicker than a fried chicken dinner at the white house. :p

So I used some stuff called Black Beauty (fine grit) from Tractor Supply. That worked better but still had to strain big pieces out.

I think it must be my Kobalt air compressor from Lowes. It's great for airing up your tires or the kids blow up raft but has something to be desired on air tools.
 
A good water trap is a must! I tried using the Harbor Freight unit that came with the pot, and it allowed lots of water past it. This of course caused the sand to become wet. It clogged quickly. :frown:

Swapped to a better trap, and all was fine. I also used a larger nozzle in the gun to allow for the larger particle sizes in the sand.

These pots are a pain to get 'tuned', but once you figure out the settings you can blast for 20 minutes before having to refill it. I just swept up the sand from the drive, screened it, and put it right back in.

Oh, and my compressor is a Lowe's Kobalt... ;)

Some other tips: Try to choose a day where the humidity is as low as possible. Less water in the air, is less water in the pot. This is hard in the east during summer!

Use a 1/2" hose if the run from the compressor is over 25'. This ensures plenty of air flow.

A longer hose also helps the water to condense out. If you have enough hose make a couple of loops and run them into a 5 gallon bucket full of cold water and/or ice water.

Make sure the wind is not blowing toward your neighbors Mercedes! :D
 
I did mine for free:grinpimp:
action begins on frame.webp
me doing finish.webp
 
Also, use a needle scaler for the really bad areas - it makes the sandbalsting go much quicker
 
NorthStar High-Pressure Abrasive Blasting Kit Handles up to 3500 PSI | Surface Cleaners | Northern Tool + Equipment


There is a mild issue with flash rust. I live in Arizona, so it is not as bad if done in the sun, where it dries real quick. If you don't want the flash rust, you have to dry it off quickly. Even with the flash rust, you just wipe it with Scotchbrite and it is ready to go.

As for performance, it shreds through any coating VERY quickly. I have used regular blasters as well, and it is just as good, if not better. It is especially nice, as you dont have to breathe all of the dust. It is a very inexpensive product that is very effective. If you have a good pressure washer, how can you not try it if it is really so inexpensive? I highly advise y'all to try it.

As for play sand, I wouldn't advise. It works, but pits much deeper, bounces back at you much more, and does clog easier. I just buy 100 pound bags of silica sand at ACE Hardware. You can buy different grits depending on what you are blasting. I like the medium grit for bodies and frames.
 

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