Saginaw P/S with Manafre shackle reversal

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Hello...
After COUNTLESS hours of research, (my wife is getting pi**ed) :D

I am ready to pull the trigger on a saginaw conversion on my 78 FJ40. I only have 2 questions I havent been able to find a solid answer to after searching the forums.....

The p/o installed a manafre SR kit, with 2 1/2 springs in the front, and 4 inch springs in the rear. My question is, should I use the drop pitman arm, or just the flat one?

Also ,she sits a little higher in the front with this spring configuration. It's got 33's on it, would like to go with 35's.It looks like it would easily clear 35's in the front, but not the rear. Any suggestions on my sagging rear end?? :D haha

Thanks!
 
If she's pissed off at you for spending time reading on the internet, how is she going to respond to the long hours and countless nights and weekends away from her while you devote your time to your hobby????? Speaking from experience, you better resolve this little issue first.


Regarding your questions, I have the same set up. For the pitman arm, I settled on a ~2" drop. The kit came with a straight and I also sourced a ~4" drop. Any will work, all have their advantages and disadvantages. For steering that is the least reactive, you want the longest pitman arm you can find. That and a 4 turn 800-series Saginaw box.

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For your second question, you need to either lower the front or raise the rear. Lower the front by removing a leaf or two form the spring pack or shorter shackles if yours are extended. For the rear, add leafs, re-arch the existing spring packs, replace the springs or install longer shackles.
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Out of curiosity, i'm planning on running the man-e-fre SR with a Cruiser solutions Saginaw PS kit, is there going to be any major interferece that you guys can think of?
 
Post up a link/details aboit the CS PS kit. I am unfamiliar with it.

One way to typically avoid the types of possible interference in which you ask, is to buy everything from the same vendor. What is wrong with the MAF conv kit?
 
For steering that is the least reactive, you want the longest pitman arm you can find.


It is the other way around. The longer the arm the more lateral translation you get for the same amount of angular rotation. The arm can't be too short so that you won't get full lock to lock turning.
 
The kits appear to be comparable in their scope. $1300, yikes. Depending on how much work you are willing to do sourcing parts locally/fabbing yourself, one could assemble the needed items at a significant savings over purchasing either of those kits.
 
Use the flat arm, I've seen a number of conversions using the drop arm that won't go lock to lock. Many
steering boxes came with internal stops, on a limitted number of OEM applications, restricting a bit of their motion. You won't know if you have one of these unless the rebuilder catches it and packages it correctly. With the S/R you can mount the box lower without interfering with the top of the shackle
so the drop arm doesn't gain you anything

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S/R with 2 1/2" springs, saginaw with flat pitman

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just did my fj40-69, used the flat arm

i just did my ps conversion and i used the flat arm. i am spring under still, and i adjusted/cut the first tie rod from the old pitman arm to length and then it lifted up and out about 2 inches from the previous line of movement. it seems to work well. needed to make a slight adjustment to center the steering motion since my cut/adjustment as off about 1/4 inch. everything clears real well and i really like the power stering. my kit came from Power Steering Pro's, and looks same as yours. mine is a 4.25 to 1. so i have about 2 turns of the steering wheel to the left stop and same for the right.

my front bunper is fixed, so i cut into the front cross member and then reinforced it with 1/4 inch plate top and bottom.

yes, i am a terrible welder on the underside welding up, but it is hooked on.
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