Sad day, seized F motor

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@Darryl

If you choose to have one shipped up have it shipped to Plentywood. Curtis Farm and Auto. They accept shipments on peoples behalf and have a large warehouse outback where they store things. I had my trans for my duramax shipped from california to there with zero issues. Plus its only a 80 min drive from us here. Another plus is i know guys who go down there weekly to pick things up and could grab the engine for you
 
whitey45 said:
Had an f seize years ago at idle due to dist not seated. I pulled the dizzy, primed the oil pump with a drill, sure enough, it freed right up. Engine ran great for the next few years! Sure wouldn't hurt to try!
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This motor is stuck. Can't turn it with a pry bar on the flywheel. Should have it out tomorrow and then we can flip it over and pull the pan.
 
Varty Yo said:
@Darryl

If you choose to have one shipped up have it shipped to Plentywood. Curtis Farm and Auto. They accept shipments on peoples behalf and have a large warehouse outback where they store things. I had my trans for my duramax shipped from california to there with zero issues. Plus its only a 80 min drive from us here. Another plus is i know guys who go down there weekly to pick things up and could grab the engine for you
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That's good to know. I talked with a guy this morning about a 2f he is selling out of a 75. He wants $2000 for the entire power train. I have an add on kijij but I think this is to much.
 
Yes that is too much! Unless its a complete rebuild. I saw your ad i was hunting for a motor for you also. Ive asked around in my cruiser circle of friends that extends into BC. We will find you a motor soon. Im sure you have your own little circle also haha
 
Varty Yo said:
Yes that is too much! Unless its a complete rebuild. I saw your ad i was hunting for a motor for you also. Ive asked around in my cruiser circle of friends that extends into BC. We will find you a motor soon. Im sure you have your own little circle also haha
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Yes it's a bit much. Not a rebuild. Just an original motor. I am searching. I wish I was closer to New Mexico.
 
If I remember correctly, I was priming and bumping the starter at the same time. It took a few tries, but it eventually started to rotate, after a few full rotation's will good oil pressure it spun perfect. Good luck, very curious if this will indeed work again!
 
To verify the oil pump is pumping(and dissy's seated), you can pull the oil sender, remove center coil wire, turn the ignition until oil squirts out the sender hole.
 
If you remove the dizzy, you can drive the oil pump with a drill and a flat blade screwdriver bit that replicates the dizzy shaft. That should get oil to some of the "dry" points that may loosen it up. Squirting some oil into the cylinders through the spark plug openings may help as well, and I would leave the plugs out for the first attempt at cranking.. Good luck!
 
Back in 96 my quotes were getting over 3g for both the F and 2F I had hoped to rebuild. When I saw the estimate paperwork, they'd not even finished pricing things out. F pistons alone were $600.

$500 is a deal and a half... 2K seems like a price that should include a truck. :D
 
Your not a bad day, it happens. My son put new brake rotors on my CJ-8, he is 21. He assigned my 16 year old daughter to put the wheels back on when he was done, which I did not know. A few days later she was driving it around to lean a clutch and calls me to tell me the front wheel fell off. She never tightened the lug nuts, she had no clue what she was doing. My son did not check them he assumed she did know. I had know knowledge my son did not do it, so I did not check it. It happens. Pick up a 2f easy swap, I see them pop up all the time on CL for $500 or less. Good experience to replace it, will be a family story you all laugh at down the road.
 
Darryl said:
We put a drill on the oil pump and once oil started oozing out of top of the end of the engine my son put a big wrench on the end of a crank and the engine now turns. We're going to put it back together and see if it runs.
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Even if it runs, I would still drop the pan and check the bearings, if needed they are cheap. By putting big load on them, if they(one) was stuck to the crank, can break/bend the tabs and spin. Catching, fixing it now will increase the odds of the motor lasting. Rockauto.com lists the rod bearings at $20.
 
It runs! And sounds great.
We are going to put it back together. And run it with coolant in for a few minutes.
I think then we will pull the pan and inspect the bearings as suggested.
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I pulled the dist soon after I bought the 40 so I could install an electronic pick up. I failed to seat the dist far enough in and when I saw no oil pressure I immediately turned the engine off. Thinking that maybe the gauge was faulty, I connected a manual gauge which showed no pressure at idle. I did use an electric drill with a long slotted screwdriver bit and found oil coming out of the rocker arms as it was supposed to and the gauge showed a little pressure. Turned it off and then finally checked the dist and found the aftermarket clamp I installed held it out just far enough to not engage the oil pump. The old F still runs well and the lack of oil pressure didn't seem to harm it. Toyota sure made a tough luxury farm truck in the 40. To bad they continue to ignore that section of the market and just let the Heeps have it.
 
He took it for a test run tonight. This is the first time this truck has been on the road since the 1990s. It's running fine and sounds like any other 40. We are going to take a day off tomorrow and pull the pan on Monday.
Thanks to all that contributed to this thread!
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