Rust Prevention (1 Viewer)

[schmeb2000]

Hello,
I recently got a 2000 LC. It has been a Cali truck all its life except its spent the past couple years in Maine. There was almost no rust on the frame, just on the welds and the axel had some decent rust in some spots. I spent time getting away most of the rust then painting it with POR-15. I'm not going to lie its not the best paint job. There small spots that didn't coat right (most likely due to not being clean enough). I did all this during s***ty weather. I'm planning on getting a FF coating every year. I want to keep this truck as long as possible. If I'm being honest I never want another vehicle. Anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the truck in good shape while living in Maine other than my precautions and future plans with yearly undercoats? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[delz05]

Take the time to clean out the internal frame assembly and crossmembers. Blow out and vacuum as much debris from the inside as possible. Use a low impact needle gun to clean the external frame rails, this will aid in knocking loose any internal corrosion build up as well as what is visible externally. Using a garden sprayer (if no air compressor), coat both internal and external with a rust kill solution, use safely and accordingly. Once dry and the oxidation and corrosion has been neutralized, spray a liberal amount of of Woolwax ( I use about 2 qts per internal frame rail and crossmember extensions). You can also use the Woolwax externally, or sand, prime and paint as you prefer.

The time you put in to prepping the frame will proportionately provide the expected results. Drop the boards, remove the wheels, exhaust, drive shafts, spare tire and bumper covers, at a minimum.

Kind of like taking care of your teeth… you only brush and floss the ones you want to keep forever!

 

[schmeb2000]

Take the time to clean out the internal frame assembly and crossmembers. Blow out and vacuum as much debris from the inside as possible. Use a low impact needle gun to clean the external frame rails, this will aid in knocking loose any internal corrosion build up as well as what is visible externally. Using a garden sprayer (if no air compressor), coat both internal and external with a rust kill solution, use safely and accordingly. Once dry and the oxidation and corrosion has been neutralized, spray a liberal amount of of Woolwax ( I use about 2 qts per internal frame rail and crossmember extensions). You can also use the Woolwax externally, or sand, prime and paint as you prefer.

The time you put in to prepping the frame will proportionately provide the expected results. Drop the boards, remove the wheels, exhaust, drive shafts, spare tire and bumper covers, at a minimum.

Kind of like taking care of your teeth… you only brush and floss the ones you want to keep forever!

I want to do all that.... I can definitely do the inside of the frame. The only problem I have with dropping a lot of that stuff is I only have that truck. I'm a full time student commuting five days a week and have a full time summer job. I really am thinking of taking it to some place to get rid of everything and do the maximum prevention. Also how would I coat the internal frame? I'm honestly also broke as hell right now so I'm in a tough spot with doing all that work or even taking it some place. And one last question, do any places do that work and what would the cost be? I can also send pics/vids tomorrow of the underside when the sun is up.

 

[reconranger]

Where in New England are you?

 

[Mike NXP]

Let's see some pics. It sounds like you've got a solid base to start with so don't stress it so much. POR15 is a good product but needs to be applied right or else it tends to crack / peel / trap moisture.

I've had the best luck with the product below. Look for an undercoater in your area. They seem to be all over New England, and like one person out here in Montana that I used. I paid $250. I used to use other products like fluid film and its way more harsh than this NH oil stuff. Held on all winter long and is slowly rinsing off now that its warming up and I've been washing the truck again

Home

Protect your vehicle from rust with NH Oil Undercoating® – the trusted name in eco-friendly, oil-based undercoating and rust prevention. Extend the life of your car or truck with our proven rustproofing solutions.

nhoilundercoating.com

 

[excessive]

Fluid film or Surface Shield... are really the only 2 rust prevention products i recommend

 

[SteveH]

Be sure any 'undercoater' you hire doesn't use any tar-based or hardening products.

A couple hours on Saturday and several cans of Fluid Film will get you started. You have all summer to do this, so read up on the internet, make your own tank-sprayer setup with a frame hose, and have some fun. You can rustproof the inside of your frame cheaply with ATF or gear oil/motor oil, and that should last one season. Fancy? No, but it will buy you time.

 

[NeedaLX]

Fluid film or Surface Shield... are really the only 2 rust prevention products i recommend

Any reason no woolwax?

My understanding was it’s basically the same as those other two

but a little thicker/less likely to rinse off

 

[Mike NXP]

Any reason no woolwax?

My understanding was it’s basically the same as those other two

but a little thicker/less likely to rinse off

Wool wax is lanolin based and fluid film is petroleoum based..your call both are pretty harsh and the NH oil has been the best in my personal.experience

 

[NeedaLX]

Wool wax is lanolin based and fluid film is petroleoum based..your call both are pretty harsh and the NH oil has been the best in my personal.experience

I’m pretty sure fluid film is also lanolin based. Or maybe they have a different product that isn’t?

FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

FLUID FILM® is Eureka’s own unique lanolin-based brand of corrosion preventive and lubricant, used worldwide in a multitude of industries and applications.

www.fluid-film.com

My understanding is lanolin based is preferable, as it shouldn’t harm rubber/plastic like petroleum products

 

[Mike NXP]

I’m pretty sure fluid film is also lanolin based. Or maybe they have a different product that isn’t?

FLUID FILM | Powerful Corrosion Protection & Lubrication

FLUID FILM® is Eureka’s own unique lanolin-based brand of corrosion preventive and lubricant, used worldwide in a multitude of industries and applications.

www.fluid-film.com

My understanding is lanolin based is preferable, as it shouldn’t harm rubber/plastic like petroleum products

I could be wrong , my bad if so

 

[RockDriver]

I could be wrong , my bad if so

Fluid film is definitely lanolin based. I sprayed the underbody of my LC a couple of weeks ago and the sheep smell is unmistakable.

To the OP - regarding the inside of the frame - most of these products are sold in aerosol sets that include inner coating nozzles. If you intend to use a compressor instead, look for inner coating nozzle for compressor separately.

I bought a pair of these sets, total of 12 cans, observe the inner coating nozzle included:

 

[TomsCruiser]

Fluid film or Surface Shield... are really the only 2 rust prevention products i recommend

What about woolwax?

 

[NeedaLX]

I bought a pair of these sets, total of 12 cans, observe the inner coating nozzle included:

View attachment 3896776

How many cans did you end up using?

And was that the first coating or was it a frame that was previously coated?

Debating on whether to invest in an air compressor/spray gun setup or stick to the cans

 

[RockDriver]

How many cans did you end up using?

And was that the first coating or was it a frame that was previously coated?

Debating on whether to invest in an air compressor/spray gun setup or stick to the cans

I bought a dozen and used about 9-10 of them for the underbody. I will use up the rest for the body cavities like behind the rear lights, etc.

I saw no signs that the previous owners have done any rust prevention, but the car is 24 years old, so at this point I don't know. The frame is in a good condition, with some surface rust that I removed with wire brush on my Makita before spraying.

I was debating the same thing, but for the time being opted for cans. I will probably end up buying a compressor, as I have other uses for it as well.

 

[NeedaLX]

I bought a dozen and used about 9-10 of them for the underbody. I will use up the rest for the body cavities like behind the rear lights, etc.

I saw no signs that the previous owners have done any rust prevention, but the car is 24 years old, so at this point I don't know. The frame is in a good condition, with some surface rust that I removed with wire brush on my Makita before spraying.

I was debating the same thing, but for the time being opted for cans. I will probably end up buying a compressor, as I have other uses for it as well.

Thanks, this is helpful. While I don’t have a 100 series (yet) I’ve begun planning the rust prevention aspect of ownership, living in the rust belt

Still trying to figure out the minimal air compressor needed for this application. I don't need or want to store anything too large but it sounds like tank size is pretty important

Wondering if I can get away with an 8 gallon setup, something like this:

California Air Tools - The Largest Manufacture of Ultra Quiet, Oil-Free & Lightweight Air Compressors - CAT-8010

New page

www.californiaairtools.com

 

[RockDriver]

Thanks, this is helpful. While I don’t have a 100 series (yet) I’ve begun planning the rust prevention aspect of ownership, living in the rust belt

Still trying to figure out the minimal air compressor needed for this application. I don't need or want to store anything too large but it sounds like tank size is pretty important

Wondering if I can get away with an 8 gallon setup, something like this:

California Air Tools - The Largest Manufacture of Ultra Quiet, Oil-Free & Lightweight Air Compressors - CAT-8010

New page

www.californiaairtools.com

Regarding the compressor - I don't think tank size is as important as is the pressure. The substance is rather thick and I am not really sure if 8 Bar (120 PSI) is enough. I know that people heat the liquid before spraying to make it thinner. I'm still doing my research, but I will probably be looking for a 10 Bar (145 PSI) compressor, so that I could also use it for a large nail gun among other things.

 

[NeedaLX]

Regarding the compressor - I don't think tank size is as important as is the pressure. The substance is rather thick and I am not really sure if 8 Bar (120 PSI) is enough. I know that people heat the liquid before spraying to make it thinner. I'm still doing my research, but I will probably be looking for a 10 Bar (145 PSI) compressor, so that I could also use it for a large nail gun among other things.

Yeah, for proper application the product should be mixed and heated first. The Woolwax applicator I was looking at operates at only 70-90 PSI

Woolwax "Pro" Undercoating Applicator-wwprogun

They also say "The tank size is important. We recommend no smaller than a 3 gallon tank size." But I've seen others say they wouldn't recommend anything less than 8-10 gallons so

Unlike painting, starting and stopping doesn't really matter. You just don't want to be waiting around constantly for the compressor to catch up

 

[delz05]

I spray woolwax inside nearly every frame I repair. A simple spray gun at 70-90 psi is more than enough to move the product. You do not have to heat it at all. Just keep it above 50 degrees and you will be fine. If you need to thin it before application use/mix with vegatable oil, I use the 2 1/2 gal product, best way to purchase. The biggest difference between FF and WW is the odor. WW is nearly odor free, FF has a lingering smell that takes a while to disapate (I don't use this product inside doors, hatches or interior quarter panels because of the smell), WW is thicker than FF, both are lanolin based, FF tends to wash off quicker, you can purchase and apply a "thicker" WW product for frame applications (Creep n Crawl), anything you apply is useless without proper prep work, you can use any oil solvent to coat the rust but it will not stop the rust. Rust is the oxidation of metal exposed to the natural elements, oxygen and water chemical reactions) that has to be nuetralized before it gets corrosive and eats through the metal that is exposed. POR15, Chassis Saver, Eastwood Encapsulate and all other similar products just trap the oxidation and corrosion. These products do not stop the chemical reaction from continuing.

These observations are from "hands-on" use and application. I do not work for WW, I am not affiliated in any way with WW, but I have over 3 years experience using this product and never had any issues with it. Did I mention that the prep work done prior to application will dictate the end result??? (Piss-poor prep equals piss-poor performance!)

 

[schmeb2000]

Let's see some pics. It sounds like you've got a solid base to start with so don't stress it so much. POR15 is a good product but needs to be applied right or else it tends to crack / peel / trap moisture.

I've had the best luck with the product below. Look for an undercoater in your area. They seem to be all over New England, and like one person out here in Montana that I used. I paid $250. I used to use other products like fluid film and its way more harsh than this NH oil stuff. Held on all winter long and is slowly rinsing off now that its warming up and I've been washing the truck again

Home

Protect your vehicle from rust with NH Oil Undercoating® – the trusted name in eco-friendly, oil-based undercoating and rust prevention. Extend the life of your car or truck with our proven rustproofing solutions.

nhoilundercoating.com

View attachment 3896355

I'll take some pics soon