Yep -- please post pics, we're visual learners here!
Rust!! I might’ve made a mistake. (Thread) (1 Viewer)
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- #82
I'd replace the rear hatch, fix the rust around the wheel wells, and fluid film or wool wax the undercarriage and frame. You should also pull the rear mud flaps and take a peak back there as well as just behind the front wheels where the running board meets the fender. If there is rust on the rear lower quarter panels under the plastic bumper skirt, it's easy to take off and put back on after fixing anything in that area. Good luck!
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
ooooo i missed that! shame on me!!
ya OP means that, i was just giving you a hard time.
find another one?
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- #85
No, no -- the green one was never mine. The very first entry on this entire thread is underbody photos of the Champagne Pearl 100 a couple of posts up. That's the one I bought.
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- #86
UPDATE TIME: Well, folks...(deep sigh) I've had a local shop here in Houston that specializes in LCs go through it and give their report.
Might be a good candidate for a sandblasting or steam treatment followed by corroseal, wool wax etc. it could be done with a wire wheel etc but I wouldn’t have the patience for that.
Otherwise just coat it in wool wax and send it, unless there’s holes in the frame I cant see in your pics
Keep going...
What is the report?
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Buy a gallon of fluid film and spray it everywhere, then drive the damn thing. I’d prob replace those rusty calipers tho.
Take a look at some of the rust repair I did to my 100 - hope it give you some hope!
forum.ih8mud.com
Rear hatch and tailgate RUST repair!
A few months ago I decided to tackle the dreaded rear hatch and tailgate rust on my 100! Both 470 and Cruisers are notorious for these parts rusting out... especially living on the west coast in Vancouver! I never got around to posting these so I will post my journey here! These first images...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #92
keep going...as in, more pics? or, keep driving it? Haha!
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- #93
the abridged version: sell it. every bit of service attempted will likely cost more than estimated because they anticipate lots of bolts breaking -- which can stall a repair. They are concerned with frame mounts breaking, which can just stop a project in its totality. (i.e. Strut Towers, Sway Bar Mounts, Body Mounts)
Sway bar mounts, evidently, have already had some questionable weld work done on them. Hard lines -- corroded. Soft lines -- not serviceable.
I think that's everything.
OP, I’m getting all four new calipers for my 98LX soon, I’m happy to send my old four to you, you pay shipping. They work pretty well but I would do a seal/slide pin refresh on them. My only reason I’m replacing is I didn’t want to do the work of the refresh.
I like how their advice is to "sell it". so the next unsuspecting victim has to deal with it?
Its crusty. Its gross. It will scare most folks. I'd still drive it into the ground 
... I snapped 3 bolts this weekend installing a skid under my getting crusty cruiser. Have a good drill, good bits and a couple of good taps. Took me most of a day instead of 30 minutes to install the skid, but I still love my rusty cruiser.
... I snapped 3 bolts this weekend installing a skid under my getting crusty cruiser. Have a good drill, good bits and a couple of good taps. Took me most of a day instead of 30 minutes to install the skid, but I still love my rusty cruiser.
76lcmike
relax
it's from rust belt, normal rust. drive it, have fun with it.
i deal with it every day. get a heat wrench and get to it.
don't let those southern boys get yah worried.
first things to go are brake lines and fuel line, FYI.
i deal with it every day. get a heat wrench and get to it.
don't let those southern boys get yah worried.
first things to go are brake lines and fuel line, FYI.
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- #98
Thanks, Mike. I'm trying to get my head around it all. I just don't want to have to worry about taking it out on a long drive or trail. I have no plans for crawling or a bat-mobile conversion. I just want to be able to run it a little harder than normal to a campsite, go remote, and not have to worry too much about something snapping off, you know?it's from rust belt, normal rust. drive it, have fun with it.
i deal with it every day. get a heat wrench and get to it.
don't let those southern boys get yah worried.
first things to go are brake lines and fuel line, FYI.
Just work on what you can/want to, and send it. The great thing about these is rust or not, they’ll get you there. In a rusty rig case, you have less care for trail damage, so send it!
an air compressor and a needle scaler would do wonders on that for you, put that thing up on four safe jack stands, drop the the tires, remove the rear axle and get busy
